TrogdortheBurninator

Forest Pass for the trail head.

Back to the thread drift.... I haven't climbed on 5.10s ever cause anasazis always hurt my foot. Recently I have been using Mad Rock Flash for sport/gym and Mythos for Alpine/Trad. I always complained how shitty the rubber on my Mythos felt compared to my Madrocks. Then one day I decided to actually tighten my Mythos shoes, and low and behold thye actually climbed pretty damn well on edgy or smeary terrain. I typically crack climbed in my Mythos, where like Rumr said they felt great, however occasionally broke them out for slab climbs, and felt like I was struggling for confidence. It never occured to me it might be a fit thing because they climbed so good in cracks. Anyhow, I still prefer the Madrock rubber to LaSport I think, however I have much less basis for my argument than I once did.

While Galileo was clearly quite intelligent, I do not think he could single handedly take on all of the anasazi people in combat. Perhaps a more fair battle would be Galileo v. Capernicus. Or Galileo leading a whole army against the anasazi people. Otherwise kind of like comparing apples to oranges. (If this question was actually about 5.10 shoes, I apologize for my answer)

the televator is pretty good at releiving calf strain, I would recommend getting it. Beyond that the other denali shoes are only subtly different. The lightnings are really nice and they feel more solid than denalis. Denalis will take the add on tails which is kind of a bonus.

Although I've never brought brie on a long trip, just 2-3 days.

You can get these creme (sp?) brie things in a hard container that work well and taste good. You can also dip crackers and bread in them instead of using a knife.

I take Hummus pretty often, and use it with Pita or Naan flatbreads. Whole wheat flat breads are good because they pack smaller than leavened products. Cheeses like Brie are good to have along as well.

My stepdad wanted to go flimbing for father's day and I'm not one to ever turn down a climbing trip. Originally he wanted to just go to 38 or something, however I suggest we go to leavenworth make a full day of it. I suggested orbit as a fun way to spend the day, and he agreed. I began climbing ~100 ft right of the proper route, on dirty , mossy terrain. Things were way dirtier than they looked from below, so I down climbed off a small nut (free booty) and decided to find the actual start. I Copied my topo/route description from nelson guide but neglected the preceding page which described how to find the first pitch. The climbing on the route was a lot of fun. Very varied climbing, and quite sustained. It was the hardest long climb my stepdad has been on, and he struggled a bit on some of the crux sections. At some point we realized we weren't about to make it back for father's day dinner, but it's father's day and he was having a good time. Anyhow, we topped out pretty late and made it back to the car around nightfall. This route is a lot of fun. The sustained nature and more difficult protection at places makes this route feel more serious than the 5.8 rating would suggest. I preferred outerspace because the headwall is so phenomenal, however this route has a lot to offer as well. Amazingly, we did not see another party on the entire SCW on a sunny, not too hot sunday in June.

that story is from the party last year, good to hear these guys made it out ok.

agreed, the robot on stilts was be far the coolest thing there. I was actually surprised how little political propaganda there was this year.

I think endless bliss at farside has got to be the benchmark 5.10a slab for the northwest. That thing is so hard and sustained. Plus the runouts make me want to crap my pants.

I wasn't trying to imply that bouldering/sporting/tradding are anyless important than one another, merely that for me personally most of my aspirations are in trad climbing and alpine climbing, therefor I see bouldering and sport as ways to get in shape (both mentally and physically) when I'm unable to do the others. I sport climb quite a bit and I enjoy it a lot. I also boulder in the gym during the winter. I am not knocking any of these things, just pointing out how I personally view them as benefitting one another. The main point I was trying to make is not about bouldering (which I think hard bouldering is incredible) or even dynoing, which is a lot of fun. The comment was intended to focus on the idea of freestyle dynoing (ie dynoing without the intent of completeing a route). To me this seemed like a lame ass attempt at improving commerciality of climbing to compete with other action sports (skateboarding, BMX, fruitbooting, etc). I guess I just thought it was silly to have a climbing competition whose goal was so completely detached from any form of real climbing.

Scaring the Sh*t out of yourself.

Anybody else see this: http://climbing.com/news/teva2005/ Freestyle bouldering - doesn't this seem to contradict the entire essence of climbing. The way I see it, bouldering is practice for sport climbing, sport climbing is practice for trad climbing, and trad climbing is practice for alpine climbing. Each of these have some net goal of an ascent. Each of these also develop skills that translate across the discipline. What the hell is freestyle dynoing practice for?.....Rock ballet? Impressing 7 yearold girls at the jungle gym? discuss.

I have a bunch of superfly biners, and have used neutrinos. For the price, superflies are awesome. I like them more than neutrinos regardless of price. Alot of the other ones seem over priced unless you really want the keylock or something.

KEXP is easily the best radio station in washington, and probably one of the best in the country. Everyone who listens should support them. Everyone who doesn't listen should start listening, and support them.

BTW, I have summit shots of the parties on SEWS and Concord around 1:00 PM or so. If you'd like a copy, PM me.

Clean the fuel line and see if it helps, otherwise you can always send it in to MSR and they will service it/repair it/exchange it for you.

Climb: NEWS,SEWS-NW Corner, SW Rib Date of Climb: 6/4/2005 Trip Report: Pictures Here http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5229 dont know how to post em in edit. Aaron Z and I climbed the NW corner on NEWS and the SW Rib on SEWS yesterday 6-4. The Approach is mostly snow free right now, and boots or approach shoes would be equally suitable. Both routes are snow free and offered very fun climbing. NEWS is a great climb to challenge a 5.9 climber. It offers multiple high quality pitches with technical cruxes and/or strenuous climbing. The route is completly dry except for some water in the alcove above the dihedral. The descent off NEWS has continuous snow in the couloir above the chockstone, requiring hardish snow down climbing if you only perform single rope raps (scary in rock shoes). I would recommend double rope raps for this route (or at least the rappel from the top of the couloir to the chockstone) until the couloir melts out. Started the SW rib above the cockstone, but below the 5.8 tips traverse in Becky. This resulted in heavily Lichened climbing with some loose rock. The 5.6+ slab and twin cracks pitches are very good. Overall, a great, although long, day out. Gear Notes: Small Nuts Double Set Cams (.3-4) could have used fewer small cams, although doubles in the large sizes was very nice for the NW corner. You could get by fine with one #4 if you leap-frogged it up a ways, or like longish runouts on strenuous offwidth Approach Notes: Perfect via Blue Lake

Could have been us, we climbed penny lane right after German dude's belayer seconded the route. German dude was still hanging around solo toproping for a while. There was a couple at the base when we showed up, but no one rapped above us that I remember. There was another couple there right after us that helped us with a rope snafu, maybe you saw them (they were from New York).

Sometimes its tough, but you are way more excited when your partner succeeds on something hard for them. I try to mix climbing with my SO with climbing with buddies. When climbing with the SO, I'm not looking to do anything bold, just enjoy doing something fun together. Bickering detracts somewhat, but thats the price you pay.

We stayed at the Cheif campground. Th Cheif campground had tons of available walk in sites on Saturday. Alice lakes was full, as we actually checked there first. We checked out the private CG (brennan park I think), but didn't find the camping there as appealing, although it was wide open as well (only one camper).

If you had been near me and the lady, you would have probably heard similar, although we both had a great trip. The right hand side of Alexis is on private property, but the left 4 to 6 routes are open if I interpreted the signs correctly.

Had a great weekend cragging at squamish. Thanks for all the input. Aside from shannon falls, we didn't encounter too many people surprisingly. Climbed at neat and cool for half the day on Sat, Shannon falls and Alexis Cracks on Sun, and Penny Lane on Mon morning. Managed to climb many of classics I had noted in the McLane guide. Almost everything we climbed (except Alexis Cracks) I'd consider among the best single pitch I've done. Neglecting the handful of not-so memorable routes we did, these were all exceptional in my opinion: Cat Crack Flying Circus Local Boys (1st pitch) Klahanie Crack Quarry Man 10C slab next to quarry man (TR) Penny Lane Cardhu crack was really nice also, but didn't quite compare to the beauty of Klahanie. Can't wait to go back and climb some longer routes, as well as explore more of the bluffs.

I will be leading a group of 10 next weekend to rap outerspace. We will start above the hand crack, and follow the regular route as much as possible, meeting at each belay. Hopefully this does not inconvenience anybody. I hear the OS rap is much better than other raps such as Orbit. Last weekend we rapped Diedre by ascending the walk off, it was a real classic.