TrogdortheBurninator

The BD pack they had today looks like a pretty nice deal.

Anyone up for E38 or Index this evening? Will lead or follow. I am in Renton until ~4:00. I have a car, rack, rope, etc. Live in Ballard, so will be heading there afterwards. Can meet at convenient spot along the way, or can meet at crag. PM or email - killgoj at u dot washington dot edu

Easy simuling with one obvious 5.6 crux that you may or may not want to belay. We climbed it on a folded 60m half rope in probably 3 or 4 simul pitches. We climbed torment first and had half a dozen medium to large nuts and I think single camalots .5-1. This seemed sufficient as the crux is pretty short (also has fixed pin)and other than that you don't need much pro.

http://www.rei.com/product/47806520.htm?vcat=REI_SSHP_CLIMBING_TOC Not the outlet, only one size left. Theyve been on sale for a couple weeks at this price, before that they were $40.

My Cat Hates All of You

65m is an odd lenght, 50m or 60m is standard with 70m filling certain nches. If you are interested primarily in alpine routes as you indicated, something smaller diamter <9.8mm will be lighter wight. Otherwise, thicker (10.2-10.5mm) will be more durable. I have a couple blue water ropes that I really like the feel of. I also have a cheapo lanex rope (9.8mm) that has held up great. Focus more on weight, diameter, features (dry, bicolor, etc before brand). You're budget will dictate brand, although in general I feel more expensive ropes do handle better, but their cost difference is not representative of performance difference.

Better yet, what is the mellowest snow/glacier climb in a nice area (east slope for weather) that is a little more remote than adams/st helens?

How mellow is the Lyman glacier on Chiwawa, Becky says grade I-II. Is there any exposure or does it stay friendly the whole way. Would anyone recommend this?

How many windshirts are necessary for this climb? Was thinking about taking the lady up Sahale this weekend, however I'm obviously a little worried about permits. Assuming we can't get a permit for Sahale, are there any other recommended easy snow climbs that would make a good back up (something on 20 or cascade river rd)? The goal is something on snow with fairly trivial glacier crossing. Preferably not to steep, with minimal exposure (i know sahale has some scrambling at the top, but we are ready to turn round there if she's not up for it). Great views are a must. Have all three days available, but don't want anything too remote.

I used to ride some, and always had great luck swapping around parts using sites like MTBR and Ebay. My guess is if the two forks are fairly close in retail value, you can probably just post yours for sale and buy what you want with the proceeds (+ maybe a little $$)

I was playing around with MS streets and trips and my GPS a few months back while driving to leavenworth, and while it knew practically none of the I-90, Blewett Pass, or Enchantment peaks, it did have the snow creek wall. Go figure.

Bearshark

Freedom of the Hills - covers everything you want. for a beginner, FOTH is all you need. other books just give more depth/different perspectives. How to Rock Climb (John Long) Knots for Climbers Traditional Lead Climbing: Surviving the Learning Years Climbing Anchors Accidents in North American Mountaineering

That makes more sense. So it is not a recurring theme, merely an isolated set of cases?

I guess reading the document, it sounded like these were new routes being put up with non-standard hardware. Rusty bolts on old routes are generally a good motivation to get focused. Shiny bolts on new routes should be as reliable as the rock allows.

What is the deal with the Bolts disclaimer? Are these bolts actually less safe vs. standard modern fare, given the loads exhibited in a lead fall? If they are less safe, it seems irresponsible to use them, especially if they look like standard 3/8" to the common looker. I have never placed a bolt, and generally clip bolts on modern routes with confidence, however this type of practice seems strange. Maybe the disclaimer is just for legal protection, although it seems that if the bolts are generally acceptable, a more blanket statement applying to all fixed pro is more suitable. These statements are common in many guidebooks, suggesting that all fixed pro be inspected thoroughly (although I don't think anyone does this on modern sport climbs). Maybe Dallas or someone familiar with route developing could chime in about this.

Anybody been up on Dragontail (Serpentine) in the last week or so? Wondering how much snow there is, and what the descent was like. Would you recommend 0, 1, or 2 axes per team? What about mountaineering boots and crampons, vs approach shoes?

Forest Pass for the trail head.

Back to the thread drift.... I haven't climbed on 5.10s ever cause anasazis always hurt my foot. Recently I have been using Mad Rock Flash for sport/gym and Mythos for Alpine/Trad. I always complained how shitty the rubber on my Mythos felt compared to my Madrocks. Then one day I decided to actually tighten my Mythos shoes, and low and behold thye actually climbed pretty damn well on edgy or smeary terrain. I typically crack climbed in my Mythos, where like Rumr said they felt great, however occasionally broke them out for slab climbs, and felt like I was struggling for confidence. It never occured to me it might be a fit thing because they climbed so good in cracks. Anyhow, I still prefer the Madrock rubber to LaSport I think, however I have much less basis for my argument than I once did.

While Galileo was clearly quite intelligent, I do not think he could single handedly take on all of the anasazi people in combat. Perhaps a more fair battle would be Galileo v. Capernicus. Or Galileo leading a whole army against the anasazi people. Otherwise kind of like comparing apples to oranges. (If this question was actually about 5.10 shoes, I apologize for my answer)

the televator is pretty good at releiving calf strain, I would recommend getting it. Beyond that the other denali shoes are only subtly different. The lightnings are really nice and they feel more solid than denalis. Denalis will take the add on tails which is kind of a bonus.

Although I've never brought brie on a long trip, just 2-3 days.

You can get these creme (sp?) brie things in a hard container that work well and taste good. You can also dip crackers and bread in them instead of using a knife.

I take Hummus pretty often, and use it with Pita or Naan flatbreads. Whole wheat flat breads are good because they pack smaller than leavened products. Cheeses like Brie are good to have along as well.

My stepdad wanted to go flimbing for father's day and I'm not one to ever turn down a climbing trip. Originally he wanted to just go to 38 or something, however I suggest we go to leavenworth make a full day of it. I suggested orbit as a fun way to spend the day, and he agreed. I began climbing ~100 ft right of the proper route, on dirty , mossy terrain. Things were way dirtier than they looked from below, so I down climbed off a small nut (free booty) and decided to find the actual start. I Copied my topo/route description from nelson guide but neglected the preceding page which described how to find the first pitch. The climbing on the route was a lot of fun. Very varied climbing, and quite sustained. It was the hardest long climb my stepdad has been on, and he struggled a bit on some of the crux sections. At some point we realized we weren't about to make it back for father's day dinner, but it's father's day and he was having a good time. Anyhow, we topped out pretty late and made it back to the car around nightfall. This route is a lot of fun. The sustained nature and more difficult protection at places makes this route feel more serious than the 5.8 rating would suggest. I preferred outerspace because the headwall is so phenomenal, however this route has a lot to offer as well. Amazingly, we did not see another party on the entire SCW on a sunny, not too hot sunday in June.