TrogdortheBurninator

that story is from the party last year, good to hear these guys made it out ok.

agreed, the robot on stilts was be far the coolest thing there. I was actually surprised how little political propaganda there was this year.

I think endless bliss at farside has got to be the benchmark 5.10a slab for the northwest. That thing is so hard and sustained. Plus the runouts make me want to crap my pants.

I wasn't trying to imply that bouldering/sporting/tradding are anyless important than one another, merely that for me personally most of my aspirations are in trad climbing and alpine climbing, therefor I see bouldering and sport as ways to get in shape (both mentally and physically) when I'm unable to do the others. I sport climb quite a bit and I enjoy it a lot. I also boulder in the gym during the winter. I am not knocking any of these things, just pointing out how I personally view them as benefitting one another. The main point I was trying to make is not about bouldering (which I think hard bouldering is incredible) or even dynoing, which is a lot of fun. The comment was intended to focus on the idea of freestyle dynoing (ie dynoing without the intent of completeing a route). To me this seemed like a lame ass attempt at improving commerciality of climbing to compete with other action sports (skateboarding, BMX, fruitbooting, etc). I guess I just thought it was silly to have a climbing competition whose goal was so completely detached from any form of real climbing.

Scaring the Sh*t out of yourself.

Anybody else see this: http://climbing.com/news/teva2005/ Freestyle bouldering - doesn't this seem to contradict the entire essence of climbing. The way I see it, bouldering is practice for sport climbing, sport climbing is practice for trad climbing, and trad climbing is practice for alpine climbing. Each of these have some net goal of an ascent. Each of these also develop skills that translate across the discipline. What the hell is freestyle dynoing practice for?.....Rock ballet? Impressing 7 yearold girls at the jungle gym? discuss.

I have a bunch of superfly biners, and have used neutrinos. For the price, superflies are awesome. I like them more than neutrinos regardless of price. Alot of the other ones seem over priced unless you really want the keylock or something.

KEXP is easily the best radio station in washington, and probably one of the best in the country. Everyone who listens should support them. Everyone who doesn't listen should start listening, and support them.

BTW, I have summit shots of the parties on SEWS and Concord around 1:00 PM or so. If you'd like a copy, PM me.

Clean the fuel line and see if it helps, otherwise you can always send it in to MSR and they will service it/repair it/exchange it for you.

Climb: NEWS,SEWS-NW Corner, SW Rib Date of Climb: 6/4/2005 Trip Report: Pictures Here http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5229 dont know how to post em in edit. Aaron Z and I climbed the NW corner on NEWS and the SW Rib on SEWS yesterday 6-4. The Approach is mostly snow free right now, and boots or approach shoes would be equally suitable. Both routes are snow free and offered very fun climbing. NEWS is a great climb to challenge a 5.9 climber. It offers multiple high quality pitches with technical cruxes and/or strenuous climbing. The route is completly dry except for some water in the alcove above the dihedral. The descent off NEWS has continuous snow in the couloir above the chockstone, requiring hardish snow down climbing if you only perform single rope raps (scary in rock shoes). I would recommend double rope raps for this route (or at least the rappel from the top of the couloir to the chockstone) until the couloir melts out. Started the SW rib above the cockstone, but below the 5.8 tips traverse in Becky. This resulted in heavily Lichened climbing with some loose rock. The 5.6+ slab and twin cracks pitches are very good. Overall, a great, although long, day out. Gear Notes: Small Nuts Double Set Cams (.3-4) could have used fewer small cams, although doubles in the large sizes was very nice for the NW corner. You could get by fine with one #4 if you leap-frogged it up a ways, or like longish runouts on strenuous offwidth Approach Notes: Perfect via Blue Lake

Could have been us, we climbed penny lane right after German dude's belayer seconded the route. German dude was still hanging around solo toproping for a while. There was a couple at the base when we showed up, but no one rapped above us that I remember. There was another couple there right after us that helped us with a rope snafu, maybe you saw them (they were from New York).

Sometimes its tough, but you are way more excited when your partner succeeds on something hard for them. I try to mix climbing with my SO with climbing with buddies. When climbing with the SO, I'm not looking to do anything bold, just enjoy doing something fun together. Bickering detracts somewhat, but thats the price you pay.

We stayed at the Cheif campground. Th Cheif campground had tons of available walk in sites on Saturday. Alice lakes was full, as we actually checked there first. We checked out the private CG (brennan park I think), but didn't find the camping there as appealing, although it was wide open as well (only one camper).

If you had been near me and the lady, you would have probably heard similar, although we both had a great trip. The right hand side of Alexis is on private property, but the left 4 to 6 routes are open if I interpreted the signs correctly.

Had a great weekend cragging at squamish. Thanks for all the input. Aside from shannon falls, we didn't encounter too many people surprisingly. Climbed at neat and cool for half the day on Sat, Shannon falls and Alexis Cracks on Sun, and Penny Lane on Mon morning. Managed to climb many of classics I had noted in the McLane guide. Almost everything we climbed (except Alexis Cracks) I'd consider among the best single pitch I've done. Neglecting the handful of not-so memorable routes we did, these were all exceptional in my opinion: Cat Crack Flying Circus Local Boys (1st pitch) Klahanie Crack Quarry Man 10C slab next to quarry man (TR) Penny Lane Cardhu crack was really nice also, but didn't quite compare to the beauty of Klahanie. Can't wait to go back and climb some longer routes, as well as explore more of the bluffs.

I will be leading a group of 10 next weekend to rap outerspace. We will start above the hand crack, and follow the regular route as much as possible, meeting at each belay. Hopefully this does not inconvenience anybody. I hear the OS rap is much better than other raps such as Orbit. Last weekend we rapped Diedre by ascending the walk off, it was a real classic.

I think I tried to cross over left hand onto some thin sloping crimper, then move right hand way out to a decent hold. If that move were at 38 or Vantage, it would be 10c/d in my opinon.

How long is the approach to Klahanie? I figured we'd stop there first on the way up.

Maybe suggestions for shady crags would be in order.

mmmmmmmmmmm greasy slab

Is the squamish airport forecast on weather.com really accurate? It says it will be like 92 degrees Sat and Sun.

Columbia crack is really fun and aesthetic. I remember some other really fun stuff at the breadloaves.

Is there a need for double rope rappels on many of the single pitch climbs in the bluffs etc, or would a single 70m suffice?

BTW, if anyone has any real responses left, I appreciate all the input. Spray is also welcome (as is the response of Eric8 which might be either).