TrogdortheBurninator

We use an MSR missing link for lightweight backpacking. It is pretty plush inside, with tons of room for two, and maybe even three in a pinch. Not quite as light as those you mentioned, but maybe still worth a look.

Oh yeah, forgot about those little things. Can definitely leave the medium and large stoppers (bigger than ~BD #6) at home

Climb: Exfoliation Dome-Jacob's Ladder Date of Climb: 7/31/2005 Trip Report: MattP and I climbed Matts route, Jacob's Ladder, on Exfoliation Dome on Sunday. This route is awesome. The pictures I have dont do it justice as I only had my camera phone with me and no real camera. The route takes a very direct line up the prominent and steep west face of Exfoliation Dome, while following a natural line. The route is safely protected with solid bolts and natural gear, while still preserving much of the adventure darrington is known for. Pitches 1&2 offer easy but enjoyable runout slab climbing. These pitches are a nice warm up, but do not at all reflect the character of the rest of the route. Matt leading P3 Pitches 3-7 offer exceptional sustained steep climbing with a considerable amount of variation. Pitch 3 is a fun pitch which moves into an LF corner where some tricky (bolt protected) moves are required. Pitch 4 is the crux pitch and is considerably harder than the rest of the route. I tried to free it, but after repeatedly blowing my footholds I gave up and resolved to pull on quick draws and stand on bolts until the major difficulties were passed. Matt following the difficult crux pitch Matt made a fine lead on pitch 5 which avoids a heinous looking chimney hand crack in exhange for unique sustained 5.10 blocky but downsloping climbing. Matt leading on P5 Pitch 6 is really exceptional as it combines big sportoesque moves, moderate crack and flake climing, and 5.10 steep dike and slab climbing. This pitch comes at a really good height on the wall and for us marked the point when the sun hit the wall (not necessarily a good thing, but beautiful nonetheless). Matt follows the dike (Jacob's Ladder) on P6 Pitch 7 is another good pitch that would be even better with more traffic. The climbing is varied again, and includes some longish sequences of difficult climbing before easing off. Pitch 8 is relatively easy (5.8), but still interesting and fun. Near the end you can either climb directly up an unproteted slab, or skirt the slab on the right via dirtier but somewhat protected climbing. On this pitch do not be enticed by the gorgeous handcracks half way through the pitch. They are formed by enormous detached blocks that according to Matt have visibly moved 6" in the last year. We rapped a line suggested by CBS which makes a fairly direct descent from the terrace beginning at a large tree. At the base, we scrambled (actually I asked for a belay on the final low 5th section) back climbers left to meet up with the final 2 raps of Jacob's ladder. A view back up the route as Matt completes the final rap back to our packs and some surprisingly cool gatorade. The line goes pretty directly up the face with minor zig zaggin reaching and passing the prominent white scar at 3/4 height. Thanks again to Mattp for developing and showing me this awesome route. I really think this route deserves to get climbed far more often, and more traffic will only make it better. By aiding through the crux pitch, this route is within the cababilities of any solid 5.10 climber. Gear Notes: Used: ~12 draws (sporto and extendable) Cams from black alien to gold camalot with doubles helpful from yellow alien to red camalot. Start early this time of year and you can beat the sun for most of the route. Approach Notes: Steep granite, don't slip.

Nice work guys, I ran into you guys as back at lake serene while I was playing around on the bouldery shoreline of the lake.

Jumping off underside of bridge while holding rope = no skin on hands = not cool. Not me, a friend did this.

BTW, feel free to call earlier if you want to leave earlier. Might take two tries to wake me up.

Just saw this, but its too late to call. Call me back in AM if you still want to go. two zero six seven nine zero six five six six. I will check this around 7:00 if I don't get a call before.

Shit, that was fast, tried to get you guys on the ball asap. I only ordered 4 (2 21s and 2 17s) I probably should have ordered more at that price.

These are the new Petzl screws with rotating hangers. retail is $60. The have sizes 13, 17, and 21cm available. This is an awesome deal imo. http://www.ems.com/products/product_deta...D=1121957709332

I also saw the Dog at the trailhead. Kind of a funny side note on that.... In the parking lot, someone told the Dog's owners that they should watch out for rangers because they couldn't have dogs in the national park. I said that WA pass is well outside the park, but I wasn't sure if there was a restriction on dogs. The group with the dog left and went hiking up the trail, while the guy who gave the warning (maybe one of you guys??) told us that last time he saw a dog up there, it was chasing goats all around. Apparently the goats aren't taking that anymore. The dog was really cool and super friendly at the parking lot. Hopefully it was OK, and hopefully next time the owners don't leave the dog offleash in an area like that. BTW, nice work on the route. Those Boving roofs look amazing to me.

Met some friendly people, listened to blood curdling screams, and observed numerous shenanigans (while partaking breifly in our own rappeling fun) at WA-Pass while enjoying some nice easy climbing. Weather and views were perfect on account of the previous days rain followed by the complete absence of clouds.

Anybody have a good topo for the N. Face of burgundy. I hear the becky topo is flawed, and nelson is basically non existant. I heard Burdo had a good one, but it is out of print. PM if you have one you can scan/photo.

Luucky

old style #3 camalots for $42 now.

Have you done the N. Face, how does this route compare?

LW is pretty fun too. One of my friends made me skate it with him in exchange for coming climbing.

noo, 9 seconds no good and its time to go home. Maybe in another 7 years when I decide to play this game

You guys are all losing

this is what 4:30 looks like

...2,1 go 16sec

I would think <5.7 or <5.8, you will still have a great trip. The only route I climbed that seemed noticeably soft was Klahanie, although it is exceptional at any grade. Cat crack felt like solid 5.6 to me. Penny lane felt on par with icicle 5.9s. If you spend time in the bluffs, you can always join the masses and toperope routes that you are afraid to lead. That way you can sample the harder grades and see if you are up for them.

so they are not normalized as in force per area and elongation per unit length?

I suppose the only resolution is to ask Cowboy Curtis what he thinks.

I am just a nerd who has crapped his own thread for the sake of interesting science speculation.

good point, although it seems a more likely mechanism would have to do with some critical flaw size and flaw growth. However, I know nothing about geology and this is pure speculation.