TrogdortheBurninator

Of the like 3 days I rode last year, 2 were at baker and both were awesome. Full coverage on Harry, Gunsight and all the other goods. I miss bellingham, ski acres makes me sad.

I was thinking a similar thing once. Trad climbing is often more strenuous than sport climbing because of the extra energy required to place gear compared to clipping a bolt. Free soloing on the other hand, arguably the most traditional form of climbing, is by this analogy the least strenuous form of climbing. So... we should all start soloing above our trad limit It seems people often skip bolts on hard climbs if they are pumped, so your crux only clipping analogy might just be an extreme case of this.

I guess I was just thinking something 14c initially, even over 20 years (saw the ref to early 90s in your other post and assumed ~10 yrs) wouldn't see enough traffic to really wear hard. Didn't think about the fact that each hold is that much more critical at those grades.

Rumr, that is crazy that a climb this new and hard could get overused that fast. I've only been to smith once; is this type of extreme wear typical of most tuff routes, only more disguised in jug hauls than a route as precise as this? How often does this get climbed? I guess it is probably sort of exponential in wear though because the easier it gets, the more traffic it gets. Maybe one day when it is 5.7 I will be able to climb it.

How do you judge how loose is loose enough to clean/leave (CBS says removeable by hand; is that pulling, hanging, prying)? If you are leaving semi-loose blocks, is it ethical/unethical to glue in place? Is the standard different on sport climbs vs adventure climbs? Often cleaning looseish rock will make a climb harder and safer, is that better than easier but more dangerous?

The climbing in the third pic looks awesome. I need to get there some time.

I like how the time machine allows you to arrive at work two hours after waking up in the winds.

discuss

I didn't mean to imply all of it. All I know about recent development in LW comes from guidebook dates on moderate climbs. I've noticed a lot of 10- bolted slabs in the canyon, many of which lack specific character. Maybe contrived is the wrong word, but I really dont think bolting another one of these slabs is the best direction for the canyon. Obviously living there you have a much better perspective than me and I'd be interested to hear what direction you have seen the icicle going.

All this spraydrizzle is fa shizzle.

Although I'm a relative newbie, I would agree that new route develpoment in LW has been heavily contrived. Based on your description, it would seem highly appropriate to find/contact the FA and ask what the F*** they were thinking. If their response doesn't jive, ask them about removing some/all of the bolts. It would seem that a route such as this is probably a misplaced application of unsolicited vigilante actions. I'd be interested in knowing what route it is.

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In LW, or any area with rich traditional history and/or quality rock, I feel that ethically speaking the FA should have strived to use protectable features in place of bolts. That said, comfort level is highly subjective, and perhaps the FA wanted to create a route for the masses. If this thing can be sewn up with gear, or at least well protected at the cruxes, the bolts are probably superflous and my gut would be they should be removed with proper consent. I take it this particular crag/route has little historical significance, and the following points merely provide some perspective: You say (maybe hypothetically ) that you lead the route clean. Was the route at your limit? If it were at you're limit, do you think all of the bolts would still have been unnecessary? If it were you're first forray (sp?) in to a new grade, how many bolts would have been unnecessary based on tricky pro etc? I would assume the FA made a judgement on this (possibly a poor one), and deemed the route would offer more as a sport climb. I feel that there is little place for overbolted sport routes at established traditional crags in LW; however, some new sport climbing development on new crags does serve to broaden the available climbing experiences. Take rattlesnake rock for example (I haven't been there). My understanding is the climbing is unique and high quality. I would guess there are occasional features that could be naturally protected, but they are ignored for convenience or safety or whatever. PS, I like to sport climb with some frequency and have never once skipped the convenience of a good bolt in favor of gear.

Josh, Did you have the Zenix or Zenix IQ. I have the Zenix, and while bright on full charge, the beam becomes far less useable when the batteries get low. Supposedly the newer hyberbrights have fixed this. Has that been your experience?

He had like 50+ people from the crowd rush the stage and dance and cause general ruckus.

Did anybody else see Iggy Pop tonight; that was pretty out of control for such a large show.

This is freaking incredible. Gotta be one of the most significant climbs done in the cascades in a long time. Congratulations!

maybe because it looks like this

down Canary That is pretty amzing in my book.

That'll teach those candians to show their colours around here.

I think the commment is on the tendency of american politicians and media to liken "lesser" domestic tragedies to "greater" international tragedies, particularly those in non-western nations. I honestly beleive Katrina deserves every minute of airtime it receives; however, I do not beleive it is necessary to liken this tragedy to the recent Tsunami. I had the same sentiment hearing 9-11 likened to Hiroshima. The magnitudes simply do not compare and it cheapens the lives of others to pretend they do.

I had the same exact thought hearing some poltician on the news saying "This is our tsunami." This hurricane is very sad. The advanced warning all of the decesed had only makes the situation worse. Nonetheless the Tsunami killed entire villages in a single sweep. THis really doesnt even compare.

****POP QUIZ***** Without going back to the first page, whoe remembers what the original post asks?

One word. Teflon! How does Teflon to stick to the pan? sintering

I stared at the 10a chimney for a while, trying to figure out how it got so clean. Does it really get climbed that often, it looks heinous. Maybe it is just more sheltered and grows less lichen, I dont know.