TrogdortheBurninator

"Urban Climber has become unquestionably the most influential and important magazine for young climbers" That is sad. I have only seen urban climber a few times, but it was by far the worst climbing magazine I ever read. The articles seemed like they were written for junior high term papers and focus on gym climbing and bouldering was incredibly boring. Hopefully the merger doesn't drag climbing down even further.

It's just ice climbing. My point isn't really that ice climbing is aid. My point is that ice climbing is completely dependent on equipment. Leashes, drooped picks, bent shafts, mono points, rigid crampons....these all fall into the same category. They are devices that make ice climbing easier. I think it's a joke to pick on one of these devices and claim that, by eliminating it, you're suddenly "eliminating aid". But if that makes the young tigers feel special about their generation's contribution to mountaineering.....whatever. No disagreement here. However, artificially making climbs more challenging (i.e. no spurs, leashless maybe) is nothing new to the climbing ethic. Otherwise, why even try and free hard pitches (rock) when you could just take and rest and pull gear and climb faster and safer.

So pope, all ice climbs are just A0 since you are inherently french freeing?

For me personally, I am more aware/concerned about dropping a tool when unclipping leashes and placing pro than I am casually climbing with leashless tools. The probability of actually dropping either is probably pretty low. Anyhow, isn't getting shit dropped on you par for the course on ice regardless? I don't think leashes are cheating, but I do find ice climbing generally more enjoyable (and often easier) without them. I definitely don't think leashless is a fad as it seems to be part of the natural evolution of climbing equipment in an effort to climb increasingly more difficult terrain.

We have a regular and a long that zip together. I think this is fairly common in the industry for long and regular to have opposite zippers. I actually never found it warmer because it is harder to seal off.

From what I've read, the Brits are even less interested in leashless than americans. So far I like the idea of spring lanyards and leashless tools (although right now mine arent set up to be load bearing). I have also been thinking that maybe doing the whole quickdraw through the spike thing while placing screws on steep leashless terrain would be a good back up idea. Seems that with these precautions you can enjoy all the benefits and freedoms of leashless without introducing much additional risk.

Not sure how they compare this year, but the Haggens in bellingham also sells tickets.

Dru, that would require that you uncage your soul, and nobody wants that.

Not that I think I could ever do these, but... I think an enchainment of the early winter spires east faces would be a very cool and impressive feat. Too bad E Face NEWS supposedly sucks (maybe substitute for w face). Another cool one would be something like NE Buttress Colchuck, Backbone, W. Face CBR. Maybe the wine spires would be a bit more reasonable. Hard to think of a lot of neighboring classics that are distinct

Nooo! Now I'll get outbid.

Looks like a great trip. No offense, but I dont get this whole youtube slide show thing. Seems like you give up a ton of quality just to add some music and weird zoom effects. You tube is great for video, but I'd rather see the pictures in a reasonable resolution without all the artifacts. It's be cool if photo sites would let you add music and effects to your slideshows, then embed them like youtube vids while maintaining some quality.

2nd is DEB sews

How are they on ice?

Ah yes, alehouse. So is this finalized?

Since no one else will probably vote for Wedgwood, I vote kangaroo and kiwi.

Wedgewood Bar and Grill

Thanks a lot craig, this is great. Do you think you could email me the word file? I'd like to print it out and keep it with my guidebook. My email is in my profile.

you could do an alt-prntscreen and save it as an image, then upload it.

Here are a few photos for marble canyon and rambles from last week Rambles Center Marble Assorted

Nice work Eric, that is awesome.

:tup: :tup: Nice work! Looks good.

My arcteryx hardshell (theta ar) is cut so well that the waist doesnt hardly lift at all when I raise my arm. If you look for the right fit, stretch isn't so important. I also have a bunch of softshells, but lately have preferred the hardshell for ice climbing.

Emerald took a beating in the last week. Last Saturday it was wet, but fully formed (although we still didn't get on it).

I didn't get on synchronicity today, maybe you saw somebody else. The top did look good though. Nice running into you Dru; Where did you guys stay BTW? We didn't see you around at 4 pines. A few more tidbits Marble is a mixed bag right now: Icy BC is coming along nicely a couple parties on it today. It was reported that the 2nd tier is also formed and not too difficult. Deeping wall is formed, fun and leadable if you dig a little for placements Dihedral is super anemic. Delicate and felt way harder than deeping wall. Super fun though with a sweet ice chimney finish. The far left route was pretty fun too At rambles my wife and I spent a day playing around on the center line. It is in good shape and takes mostly good screws.

"Leave Dr. Hemlock alone, Faggot."