TrogdortheBurninator

Nice post Pope. Aside from some overly broad generalizations I'd agree with a lot of what you are saying. The key is that rap bolting should be thoughtful. What I don't understand is your constant bashing of the rappel bolting in darrington. In my experience rappel bolted routes in darrington are broadly incredibly well thought out and enjoyable, while still preserving a healthy dose of excitement. Yes they are tamer than some of the lead bolted routes, but the flavor of the area has been preserved in a slightly safer modern manner. Many of the old runout routes still exist in their original state, others have had their original hardware updated (by hand where legally required), and a few others have been retrobolted. You would be far fetched to call any of the crags grid bolted, and most of the routes get your heart pumping if the climbing is anywhere near your limit. By contrast E38 has some 2 bolt shit piles that really are a slap in the face of climbing. The quality sucks and it sure gives the impression of being bolted just because the FAist could. Lumping all rap bolting into a single group is simply not fair. It is equally unfair to blame the WCC for advocating sport bolting. What the WCC aims to protect AFAIK is climbing access. This includes traditional crags and sport crags. Extra bonus question (probably asked before): If the FAist of Infinite Bliss would redrill every single bolt by hand, would you still call for its removal?

The main thing vantage lacks is easily top ropeable climbs. If you are unfamiliar with leading, you best bet might be a trip to icicle creek in leavenworth. Endless top ropeable routes.

Temps in Tieton were sub-billion, and the rock all stayed intact.

Bullshit! Most experienced sport climbers I know care significantly about their surroundings/environment. Sport climbing, just like all forms of climbing, is a fantastic way to enjoy ones self in the great outdoors. There is a big picture and a small picture, and dmuja et al. seem to have no grasp on their interrelation. The more climbers/hikers/cyclists etc. getting outside and using the resource, the more support that will exist for preserving the big picture resource. Sure some rockwalls will be tainted by lines of nearly invisible bolts, and some natural foliage will be decimated by the building of trails, but once these bolts and trails are established they will bring with them a user group who cares deeply about preserving that area from urban sprawl and other genuinely intrusive development. I especially call bullshit on Dmuja's half ass argument that sport climbing will somehow contribute to globabl warming. I would bet my life that the net environmental preservation value of a single sport climber (even considering something as simple as pro-environment voting) far exceeds (orders of magnitude) any sort of legitimate impact. IMO bolts should be used in a means that maximizes the quality of a resource. This isnt to say we should bolt every line. In fact I see no problem with certain face climbs remaining as TR only for all but the boldest of climbers (provided there is reasonable access to the cliff top via easy natural lines or a walk around). I also strongly agree that sport climbs dont belong on certain crags (castle, scw, etc) and especially that protectable features should not be bolted in predominantly traditional crags. BTW, I agree 100% with Dwayner's assessment that discussion of bolting with a range of view points is essential to the continued livelihood of our sport and the preservation of our more natural crags. New climbers likely won't learn this debate in the gym, and hopefully these threads at least catch the eye of the occasional new climber. When I first started climbing I really thought traditional climbing was overly risky (no way I'd ever climb over 5.6 on gear I told myself, too dangerous). I didn't fully understand why "they" couldn't bolt some cracks here and there to help out with the learning curve in a safe manner. Now I know better, and I'm sure other climbers will learn these things too.

Two 4s is very adequate to sew things up, you definitely dont need 3.5s, as 3s will do just fine.

Great TR! How'd the dogs do with the side bags and what not?

very cool! Should have brought the night vision camera.

oh man, I thought we were going to have a cripple fight. hu0wKcyr-gk

After fondling the new cobras, i'd have to say they are the sexiest tool i've ever seen. I'd buy them even if I didnt ice climb.

Not having an address should be requisite. Furthermore, I don't think too many dirt bags should have a steady internet connection, so most of the posters here are out. I also don't think college students can be dirt bags since classes serve as a responsibility. One might achieve temporary dirtbag status by quitting your job for a few months, although true dirt bag status should be reserved for say 6 month plus unemployed, or many years of odd job labor.

Way to get out and explore. Any pictures of the actual climbing?

congrats Wayne! That is phenomenal.

The flake pitch is mostly 5.8 or easier, but onthe crux you move out over thinner feet and have to reach high around a corner to lock in a good hold (5.9-5.9+). Technically harder, but not as strenuous as the OW IMO.

There is a reasonable amount of 5.8-5.9 climbing. The undercling pitch has a one move crux, but is fairly sustained 5.8 up to the crux. The offwidth is 5.9 for about 15', then it starts to ease. I think there is also on more short 5.9 bit after the OW pitch, but I remember this being pretty straightforward.

No Dolphin?

Nice! Looks like a wonderful trip.

Originally, I thought your last photo was taken at the crux, but now I see that the right hand wall isnt actually there.

Nice work! This is a climb that kind of grew on me now that it has been a year since we climbed it. At first I only remembered the sketchy bits, but now those are gone from memory and I mostly remember the fun bits and the good adventure. Rock quality is actually very good in the section where those pictures are taken.

reading comp again kevbone

Is the approach supposed to come close to Terror creek? If not, I wonder if we didnt actually pass the trail as per the NF Terror beta in Nelson. Does anyone know if the terror approach is also flagged in orange tape? The thing that makes me think we were sort of in the right area is that where we gained the heather bench at 5200' was actually very close to the heavily worn descent trail we temporarily followed (~1 treed buttress south)on our way back.

1) The camp is wonderful, two streams and a small tarn 2) Since we never found the real trail, I'm not certain, but if the stream bed we followed is an indication, I'd think not. There are a few small streams and bigger streams on the lower approach (before steepness), and you could fill up at terror creek shortly before heading up hill. You will find a nice waterfall to fill up at right after you reach the top of the steep bit. 3) We saw only one fixed anchor (3 rusty old pins) on the E. Ridge proper, plus two more slung blocks down lower. You could probably get by fine, but you may have to leave some gear. With two ropes the W. Ridge/S. Face descent wouldn't be too bad I think, but you'd need to get a little lucky. With one rope (60m) you could repeat our beta and do fine also I think. Just don't skip any stations on the W Ridge, head for the block with lots of slings on the S. Face, rap to the W. Side of the block and find the overhanging Station partway down. Rap to the large ledge where the angle lessens and traverse west to an anchor. Rap down to the 3rd class section. Build anchor and belay or just scramble down and westward to an equalized anchor between two horns (one red cord, one faded webbing). Rap into gully below and look east for station. Rap down to big block (double length mammut sling, would be more secure if replaced with long cord). Rap down to dirty gully and scramble/belay back to glacier (possible steep snow, schrund, crevasses).

The news report I just read said the rope was cut by the impact of the ice block. Sincere condolences to the friends and family of the deceased climber. "The force of the ice was so great it broke the rope and knocked the Abbotsford man into the crevasse." http://www.canada.com/vancouversun/news/story.html?id=84d41e6f-1d44-498b-b8d1-6bab2eca7248&k=73990

That challenger glacier pic is beautiful! Great job!

We knew the other crack was there, but the one we climbed looked way too good to pass up. Regarding the trail, I think we picked it up again on the way down after descending almost to where we had started up on friday. To connect the possible trail to where we started up we had to cross some big fallen trees and significant devils club, so it is no wonder we didnt find it on the way up. It wasn't so much that the route was chossy as it was that it was sometimes chossy looking/feeling on very steep moves. Probably solid enough if you are used to the type of terrain, but quite frightening for us. BTW, I think the route is Grade II-III in Beckey

Trip: Inspiration - East Ridge Date: 7/8/2007 Trip Report: Mike (Colt45) and I climbed the E. Ridge of Inspiration over the weekend. According to the rangers, no one had been up in the area recently. Seems as though quite a bit of damage and overgrowth occured on the Goodell trail. Things were pretty straight forward from the parking area to about 2100ft, only a few overgrown spots. After that, where the trail is supposed to go steeply upwards, we found ourselves pretty much lost. From the last piece of orange surveyors tape near a large boulder, we spent about 2 hours looking for a continuation of the trail. Finally we resolved to just head upward. Things started out reasonably well in a dried stream bed, but soon we were forced into vertical tree climbing and other shenanigans. 3000 ft later we finally reached the snow covered heather bench and picked up a remnant of the trail. Traversing eventually brought us to the base of a gully that seemed to lead up to 6200'. When we reached 6200', we looked out and saw a promient notch a 6200' one ridge over. Rather than descend, we decided to rappel our ridge to minimize elevation loss. (FYI, the Kearney description is specific about crossing the first ridge at 5700', the nelson description doesnt mention the first ridge). Finally we were on track and we reached the notch and were treated to a view of the finest campsite I've ever had the pleasure of using. The next morning we woke early and headed out towards inspration. We gained the route via some moderate ice just to the right of the furthest right snow tongue in the following picture. Enjoyable 5.7 climbing lead to a third class ramp system that we follwed up and right. Next Mike lead up and left of a large snow patch via loose terrain. Eventually more looseness and generally sketchy climbing brought us to the ridgecrest. The crest of the ridge involved two steep pitches. The first was a 5.8 lieback flake that unfortunately ended too soon and required steep climbing via detached blocks to reach a great loose ledge. The next pitch starts with a spectacular wide hand crack which can be exited rightward via an improbable traverse to gain another crack system which unfortunately has more of the requisite loose blocks and holds. Mike made a damn fine lead of this psuedo gem. (This pitch is supposedly 5.9, but it felt a bit harder to me while following). Beyond this pitch the rock quality increases quite a bit, and the climbing becomes very enjoyable. A nondescript and fun 5.6 pitch leads from up the N. Face with spotty pro to the base of the flase summit block. Next Mike led a breathtaking traverse around the south side of the block. 5.7 climbing with 1000' of air under your feet as soon as you turn the corner. The rest of the ridge connecting the false summit to the true summit was easier, but just as spectacular. This photo does not do the ridge justice. In places you walk on a perfectly flat 2ft wide sidewalk with big exposure all around you. After summitting we quicly started a series of single rope rappels down the W. Ridge. Rap anchors then abruptly ended, forcing a bit of convoluted scrambling to reach the next set of anchors. After exlporing all of our options, we chose an anchor over the S. Face that happened to have the most slings. Mike rapped down, but had to place directionals to reach the next anchor. I rapped down a slightly different direction and was able to reach the uncomfortable overhanging station with only minor shenanigans (if you rap from this anchor, rap off the west side of the block). This rap lead to a ledge that was easily traversed to another good anchor (2 nuts). After this rap we didn't see an more stations, so again we started roped scrambling. I looked all over, initially only seeing another anchor out of reach below in a muddy gully, but eventually I spotted a manky old anchor up above. I scrambled up to it, noted it's mankyness, then belayed mike over. We were able to place another anchor with a red cordalette directly above. We then rapped into the gully and another rap do a large boulder where we place a double length sling as a rappel anchor. After this rap we were finally down and only a sketchy steep snow traverse above a crevasse stood between us and the long walk back to camp. Descending today we were able to find the proper trail at the bench at 5200', but it abruptly disappeared at 4700', forcing us into another long bushwhack. Finally we found the trail again at 2100', where we were able to make the long hike out. All in all a pretty full on adventure that seemed to test us in every aspect (approach, climb, descent, deproach). The climbing itself was very on and off, but when it was on, it was awesome. Gear Notes: 1x red c3, Camalots 0.4-2, #2 link cam, set nuts 2x #3 camalots (2nd not used because mike was able to walk his single #3 through the wide section) Approach Notes: Many trees down on lower trail. Usually the most logical direction is correct. No idea where the real trail to go up to the bench starts. We may have encountered it on our descent, underneath logs and devils club. Hopefully more traffic will make more clear. On the upper traverse cross the first ridge at a large bench at 5700', then aim for the notch at 6200'.