TrogdortheBurninator

I'll be there. 10:00?

We could have lake city bar and grill pub club right now.

PssBnDoexJA

Asolo Cholatse might be similar. I have a pair and am reasonably happy with them, although my feet hurt if they are too tight.

Hawaii is a fantastic place for about two days until you get bored out of your mind and go broke on overpriced groceries.

Didnt Jens post something about a sub hour base to summit run with walk off.

Next or last?

Yeah, but here he posted gear for sale/trade first. His posts look legit to me.

Sounds like you were at the Devils Punchbowl. Still threatening the lives of new ice climbers to this day.

Starting hike from Stevens to Snoqualmie on PCT. Hopefuly catching many trout along the way.

cool. we moved right a bit earlier in the crack.

Nice work. So there were no problems exiting the hand crack at its very top? Looked from below like it trended way left.

Nice! The climbing looks better than I would have guessed.

Trip: The Snout - Smelling Salts Date: 8/25/2007 Trip Report: Eric8 and I spent the weekend failing as weathermen up at washington pass. Weather looked threatening saturday morning so we bailed on silverstar and headed up to the snout (weather turned out great). 3 weeks prior, Blake and I climbed a new route in the obvious dihedral, but we were originally aiming for an obvious splitter visible from below. We didn't have the gear for the splitter, so we ended up TRing it on the descent. It was good and I was looking for an excuse to go back. To make things more appealing we noticed a beautiful finger crack below the splitter. Blake climbed another route in the area a week later, then went back and TR'd the finger crack with rave reviews. Anyhow, the route is well protected and very high quality, albeit a bit too short. Combined with other routes in the basin, it makes a great sketchy weather objective. P1 (5.10) starts above an obvious fir tree below and right of the finger crack roof. Move up and left on moderate terrain to a good stance at the roof. Pull the roof into a series of thin finger locks (5.10) until gaining another good stance. A second thin crux follows. Trend up and slightly right to a nice lounger tree belay. P2 (5.9) takes the obvious wide splitter on the right side of the big dihedral. The pitch is quite steep, but has perfectly spaced chockstones and faceholds to keep the grade moderate. Crack widens quickly from hands to #4 camalots, before dropping in angle and widening to #5 for the last 15 ft. Belay at nice treed ledge. P3 (5.8) Start 15 ft right of P2 belay and follow obvious lieback crack. Climbing starts out excellent for a while, but turns to 4th class for the end. Trees can be avoided with contrived, but enjoyable face climbing. Belay at tree with slings. From atop P3 you can scramble or belay to summit in ~2 pitches mostly class 3-4. You can definitely fill a day in the basin as there are now 3 routes (known) on the snout, as well as some other new routes Blake has put up. Quality wise P1 and P2 are on par with many of the best pitches at WA Pass. If you finish your day early and just want to relax, there is excellent bouldering below the snout. here is another pic blake took of the finger crack from above. Gear Notes: Double camalots to #4 plus on #5 (C4size). Optional 2nd #5. One rope should be fine for rappel, but you will need to install a new station. Approach Notes: Cutthroat Lake Trailhead. Follow spur rd left before crossing cutthroat creek. After maybe .5 miles, turn left and head into the forest. Areas with tall trees provide generally very easy travel. Head up hill until reaching a bench below a large cliff/waterfall. Avoid the waterfall/cliff by traversing slope on left. Snout is obvious formation in middle of basin above waterfall.

The last pitch is supposed to be a bit run out, but you can move left a bit for more pro opportunities.

It is a cool piece. Some gorgeous photos in the issue.

On that particular 5.9 route, the crux, for me, was right where shown on the topo. Just replacing the one bolt before the first anchor, and one bolt at the first anchor would make the route safe and fun. It is a good route, and not sustained.

Those leepers definitely add some excitement to that silent running pitch. Seemed there was a lot more lichen on the 6-7th pitches than the lower route. Are some people turning around when they see the manky orange bolts? I think the other route we did was the 5.9 on the left side of your great arch topo (http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/pdf/3south.pdf). Fun climbing, but all on button heads. Those button heads look pretty good, but I still wasnt looking to fall. What do you make of those things? I was quite happy to find a massive new bolt at the 2nd anchor.

Super clearance: 50% off all prices ending in $.83

The 4th pitch on NW corner is way easier than that the flare on Prusik.

Looks like the best kind of failure!

ML, those are some great looking alpine lake trout!

The description for that chimney sure makes it sound like a potentially awesome winter climb. Anyone ever been in there in the cold months?

Where is Bunny Death Bivouac? That sounds awesome.

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