John Frieh

AWESOME!

Thank you Jay! Very cool TR!

Yes please.

Hemisphere cheater! Great job down there BTW! Super jealous!

October 11 2008 Carter Mtn has a 1500' WI3 that usually comes in some time in October most years.

:tup: And start doing yer pullups and calf raises! Tabata calf raises in fact We should start a Hyalite/Cody carpool thread when the season gets here

3 MONTHS! [video:youtube]

The blueberries on the approach to Bear should be ripe right about now! Go get it!

Great info... I think I still want to try it sometime And nice job on climbing and posting an "unselected" climb of the cascades! I love reading about the adventure stuff! You guys should do DNB on Bear and let me know how you think this one compares to it.

3 months to ice season! :moondance:

Thanks for the TR! I know someone who did that route a few summers ago... he had this to say: Maybe off route? Did you see any bolts?

John - I don't bad mouth someone else's style behind a guise of "it's dangerous" - I bad mouth it on both counts independently - it sucks ethically and it's incredibly stupid from a safety perspective. But you're right, people are certainly free to make stupid decisions for themselves. Style matters when it affects other people. Someone dogging their way to the top of a route doesnt affect you in any way unless they attempt to claim a FA and fail to report the moves of aid. Taking issue with how someone else climbs that doesnt affect you in anyway is frankly silly.

Because it's an incredibly dangerous habit - gear placements aren't bolts. The plain fact is that "plain common sense" seems to be evading tones of crossover folks these days and by that I mean they're way too busy working the moves to be bothered with rechecking the placement after every go at the move. I've been seeing progessively more and more accidents as a result of this over the past ten years. What is dangerous and what is ethical/good style are two different discussions. Dont bad mouth someone else's style behind a guise of "it's dangerous" We all make seperate safety decisions that we alone have to be responsible for

I post under my real name; first climb was middle sister (central oregon) @ 14. First rock climb was a top rope at Skinner's Butte in Eugene with some guys from the gear shop I somehow lied my way into employment with @ 15. I turned 30 last December. I've clipped 1000s of bolts since I started climbing... mostly at crags. I cant think of any bolts in WA/OR I’ve clipped that were in the mountains but I have clipped a few in Idaho that were on mountain routes. Their presence didn’t bother me and if they weren’t there I don’t know if I would have finished the route. I don’t know how they were placed and given that it was maybe one or two per route any ways it didn’t bother me. I've place a number of top rope bolts locally (around Portland); I own a power drill that I purchased years ago when I had more disposable income (i.e. was single); it mostly collects dust these days. Never placed a bolt in the mountains. I carried a drill into gunsight 2 times (the long way) with the intent of replacing the bolt on Jim's route but both times was shut down by weather. When I finally managed to climb the route I never saw the bolt but still managed to top out. I dont have a problem with bolts at crags as long as it is done responsible... dont bolt cracks, dont squeeze routes in next to each other and you should never have bolts so close together that one could potentially z clip. That said sport climbing is a fundamental part of how I train for alpine climbing (the type of climbing that interests me the most). Yes one can still be an amazing alpine climber without clipping bolts ever but it takes a lot more time… something I don’t have much of. So I clip bolts… but I also trad climb, solo easy routes, dry tool choss, “ice climb” trees and lift weights occasionally It’s what works for me given how much time I have to devote to climbing. Bottom line: bolts have helped make me be a better than the climber I would be if I never ever clipped them. My biggest concern WRT to bolts is bolts in the mountains. If it was up to me I’d like to see them minimized. I’m okay with bolts protecting something that would make it X rated without but only as a last resort. Bolted mountain routes I hope to do sometime soon include Salish Peak and Infinite Bliss; the first one because it looks rad (I’ve walked under it) and the second because climbers I respect and value their opinion told me it was fun… the exact reason I climb! For fun! That’s where I stand. I challenge each of you to do the same. PS: and I think we as PNW climbers have much much bigger things to worry about than bolts

I guess you neither read the "murder of the impossible" essay and/or have no respect for one of the most progressive climbers of our day. Page 5 of this thread

Mt Stuart is cragging :laf:

You realize what you are doing to your kidneys doing this... right?

Aspirin >>> vitamin I. And drink some more water.

SS Seracs:

The real hardmen crushed shit with shitty gear back in the day... I have one of the tools MFT used on Deprivation and the tools JoJo used to put up Sea of Vapors (among other FAs)... we are weak weak limp wristed fuckers is all I have to say.

Everybody is going to think I am some old crusty cowbells goldline and knickers climber though... ...then again that would be an improvement over egotistical arrogant asshole :laf:

on it great photoshop BTW

dope post I was recently given more or less the entire collection... I've been trying to put them in order but every time I sit down to do so I get distracted by one of the articles I was thinking about starting a thread with photos of various articles... thoughts?

Maybe this will get this thread moved back to the climbing forum Not taking a stand... just trying to stimulate some real dialogue Original article: