John Frieh

In weightlifting the strongest lifter always wins because they can lift the most weight in their respective weight class. In climbing the strongest climber isnt the best climber. I.e. much much more than strength matters to be a great climber. So: adopting the programming of a strength based sport for a non strength sport will not deliver the same results. Or... what works for apples wont work for slugs

+1

Louie Simmons among other notable strength coaches follows/endorses a similar methodology: lift heavy often in your competitive lifts. That said most strength coaches agree a large part of eastern bloc success in the 70s and 80s wasnt primarily due to their programming approach but instead their understanding of recovery/rest days. The point of periodization or unloading/reloading isnt to make you a better climber as much as it is to ensure you enjoy a long, fruitful career... specifically making sure you dont neglect aspects of your fitness that will catch up with you later in life. Think of all the youngins that cranked hard for a few years and then burned out/disappeared. That’s easy. Building and living out a career long enough to take advantage of your experience without losing your physical capacity in the process is far more interesting, and difficult.

50 bucks a day!

Great pics! Nice work all Cant wait to head out there this weekend

Yes Nice TR Craig! PS: told you so!

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Post of the week

Alex: many thanks for keeping WA ice current! And thanks in advance to all that report on conditions!

I wish! I'd be taking that one for sure!

17 days They are dropping prices on the clinics to 50 bucks!!! Suck it Ouray

Most of the lakes on the approach werent even frozen so we are going to need an extended cold snap to start things forming. Could be good but we need some cold first

Hiked around Strobach on Sunday to stretch the legs and see if anything was starting to form. Nothing is even remotely close. Snow was shin to knee deep on approach; flotation recommended. Also talked to some elk hunters on the road in; apparently elk season starts Wednesday so wear your orange

Nice work dudes! Looking forward to the next trip :brew:

Mod. Nomic with quark head. Stephen Koch did it in his garage.

Verizon > AT&T That said you cant use an iPhone w/ Verizon. Rumors are saying this summer. I hate AT&T but love my iPhone

nomic

Also head material on the two tools is different. One is a softer metal...

Roll call: who's going? Dec 10th -> 14th Pub club Saturday night? :brew:

Disagree on this one. You need 2 different size allen keys to change the petzl pick (one for the bolts one for the head weight)... takes much longer IMO x2. I needed a hammer, a beer and a half an hour to change out the picks on my old quarks. Maybe the nomics are easier? I always felt that the universal pick attachment (and it ease) was something that BD had going for them. Good review Dane. I'd love to get some imput from someone who has had these on ice. The nomics are much easier than the quarks to change... I just dont like having multiple parts to lose either on route or during the change out.

I never really bulked up from @fit in the first place... I actually lost 10 lbs the first month I started it. That said Gym Jones has me on a program + diet that has allowed me to drop ~7 lbs of muscle mass without seeing any major losses in my strength since last July. If I stay on track I should lose my MOG status some time next year

Great review Dane! Disagree on this one. You need 2 different size allen keys to change the petzl pick (one for the bolts one for the head weight)... takes much longer IMO

Screamer was half ripped (activated). Rope was/is fine.