John Frieh

Good point J Fisher... the type of ice Ken4ord wants to climb will determine which routes fit his requirements. Another glacial ice climb similar to eldo and friends would be ice cliff on Stuart. Additionally, though a longer drive, a number of the couloir routes in Cali are in right now (if not starting to get out of season). If you have a bulk of time this might be worth the drive... ice 9 couloir anyone?

I always wondered what those sportos that wear an oversized goretex dryloft down jacket (with matching chacos and a beanie) at smith in September are like.

Yeah... don't jump the gun! You'll ruin my summer alpine stoke:

http://www.sportextreme.com/ If you can wait for it to ship from overseas these guys are cheap! Quarks for 180... In the past they had tech wings for hella cheap. Edit: I almost forgot; Petzl is changing the quark this year (out in Oct) so chances are most online vendors will discount last year's model...

A few options (in no particular order): 1) Early Morning Spire and friends (Dorado, etc) 2) Ptarmigan Traverse 3) Dome and friends (flat top, snow dome, overdrive, dyna flow, sinister, spire, etc) 4) Logan/Thunder

PDX? Me Me Me! What time? Distance?

I had this dilemma last year: what to replace my prophets with. I solicited feedback from a number of sources; this email kinda sealed it for me (in regard to light wing or alp wing) as water ice is something I would be using them for: I have always wondered if he used this combination by choice or because one of his partners on the ascent dropped 2 tools… hmmm. A side note: (sorry I know you didn’t ask about other tools but I thought you might want to know) After a season on the Alps I sold them and am now swinging a pair of aztars which for me (which doesn’t mean you or any other sprayer on this page should like them or use them so don’t worry about needing to tell me how much they and I suck compared to you and your tools) work great for certain types of climbing. But I also have a pair of quarks and a pair of ergos. If you (or anybody for that matter) are interested in swinging any of these in the next few months drop me a line; I’d be glad to help in any way I can.

UGH! Don't fight it... you know its only a matter of time...

Agreed but the discussion is appreciated. I would wager that you would be hard pressed to meet an alpine climber not interested in climbing (second ascent or not) Disappearing floor on Hardy.

soviet route thread

Word. Squid: Good idea!

I accepted the ticket (I still have it) but draw the line there; I will not pay it. I was very cordial and respectful and I allowed her to do her job.

rbw1966: thanks! I'll have to figure something else out... Perhaps since Marylou feels it's all our civic duty to cover the compounding fiscal losses the FS continues to amass from selling public land for clear cutting she will buy a pass for me or pay my fines... And Marylou: while you are at it why don't you start sending money to local public schools... congress seems to be taking away there money too...

To impound it they would have to tow it which would merit some serious effort on there part (good example: Teanaway road) plus would they really want to risk it? Any and all damage occurred in towing would be there fault and they would have to foot the bill for it; especially if you claimed your plates were stolen (how they gonna prove you took them off?). Is forest service land really considered private property? Isn't it public land? I would like to see the law that says your car has to display plates when parked... anybody know if that is true?

I got the same $50 ticket near Leavenworth. We were packing up to go home and a female ranger and a male ranger walked up. He checked my dash for a pass (which I didn’t have) and asked if I had one to which I responded no. I added that I leaving at that moment. She told him (I guess he was in training) to ticket me and went on to hand out other tickets. He was very cordial with me and could tell I was very annoyed at the fact I was getting ticketed. He stated he could either write the ticket with or without my driver’s license. I told him I was not fishing my license out for him to ticket me. We went about writing the ticket, gave to me and left. McKenzie and I finished packing and were about to leave when the female ranger returned and demanded to see my drivers license. I asked her why she needed it and she stated she needed it to complete the ticket I was just issued. I asked how she tickets people when they are on the trail and she said they run there plates. I told to go ahead and run my plates as I was not going to give her my license. She asked me what I do when a police officer pulls me over for speeding and I responded I comply because he is citing me for a breaking a law. She on the other hand was trying to cite me for breaking a test program rule (Not a law!) and that I was going to exercise my first amendment right to peacefully protest this form of double taxation. She got very mad and practically yelled to see my license again. I responded again (I was very polite the whole time) no. She then told me I was “in direct violation of disobeying a federal officer” and turns to her sidekick and asks him if “did you go do what I told you to do?” As I didn’t know if this meant bear darts or black helicopters or both I got in my truck and drove. I should point out that she was not driving a FS vehicle with police lights. I anticipate she has called for the FS equivalent of a deputy/sheriff which I saw the rest of the weekend cruising the canyon. I haven’t heard anything since (that was Juneish). My guess is it was either due to a) the home address I have registered with the OR DMV is not current so they can’t find me b) WA state FS monkeys can’t run out of state plates c) I will get notification any day These days I remove my license plates at any trailhead that requires a forest pass and make sure my VIN # is covered. There is no law that says you have to display plates on a parked vehicle and if they wait for you just say your plates got stolen. I would have gone to court to fight the ticket but I fear a “disobeying a federal officer” ticket is waiting for me. I would encourage you to go to court and fight it; perhaps some of the lawyers on this page would consider helping you out.

What are you talking about? The cascades are climbed out... remember? FA suitors should head to the Rockies... plenty to do there... yeah… plenty!

Anyone know if this is accurate? And speaking of the diamond; what about diamond life on bear?

Did someone say Darth Vader? Chili dog what?

If rap bolters learned how to use a trad rack before they learned how to use a Bosch this wouldn't be a problem. Why upgrade a previously existing route or pitch to match a more recent route? Maybe I'm off my rocker but if we going to do anything wouldn't it be downgrade the more recent climb(s)? They are both 9s... especially since you can get a no hands no feet rest in the chimney. If you can't climb something or have a hard time with it question yourself first; not the rating... everyone has a weakness... mine is thin finger cracks.

Look it up on Petzl's website...

Though a snug fit on the standard gate BD oval; it does fit and function. The wire gate is even easier to fit the pulley onto.

Yes.