John Frieh

And even if this doesn't happen a prussik knot slips in the neighborhood of 1000lbs of force so you better hope you don’t generate that! 2 clove hitches is the only safe way to go (but is slower than shit)... I would say do it at least once... you never know when you are going to drop yours like say on liberty crack in the winter... Chirp: In retrospec I think I jumped the gun... I should have asked "are you leading with it?" as if not I doubt you will ever generate the type of forces needed to nuke that swedge in a top rope situation... however if you are leading then yes the chest harness doesn't take as much load in a fall but on the flip side heads generally aren't that strong so it is a possibility. I would say if you throw figure 8s on your lead line above the device you should be okay if the device fails to lock in an upside down fall. Suds (and any one else for that matter) look me up if you want to borrow/test drive a soloist or solo aider.

The blue ice model I did bevel but not to the degree Craig recommends... I'd take a pic and post it but my tools are at home... I also have a number of quatro picks; all of which I modified more along the lines of dry tooling but I tend to not reach for my aztar when the sproto ice litter calls...

One can only guess what will happen when ban camp figures out that one can't IP ban a proxy...

What about replacing existing ones Iain?

I have to chime in on the down thing too: The nunatak skahaplus has a hood yet weighs in at UNDER 10 ounces... beat that. Tom has been stitching quality right here (or there... I'm in OR) in WA for a few years now and makes some awesome sick light stuff. I haven't met a customer yet who has been dissappointed with his stuff. Worth the price!

Just a heads up to all; every time I place an online order I tell them I saw their ad on cc.com (if they advertise here) or if they don't I suggest to them to do so... if everyone did this perhaps revenue would flow in a little more...

drC I would say if you insist on carrying around an emergency jacket in the cascades plan on wet warmer-than-freezing conditions so a synthetic would be the wiser choice. Also it sounds like you are in the market for just one jacket so a synthetic will give you more chance for usage. With that said: don’t get sucked to far into the “be prepared” boy scout/ mountie party line… there is a fine line between rationale preparedness (first aid kit, helmet) and paranoia (stove on 1 day outings, matches even though you are climbing above snow line, rain gear when 3 day forecast calls for 10 % chance of rain, etc). Look at the weather forecast and trust your gut… the more you take to cover that “just in case gut feeling” the slower you will be and the more likely you will get caught plodding on route with 70 lbs of “just in case” on your back in stead of swilling beers at home while 30 lbs of “just enough” dries out. But an extra layer when the weather truly threatens is okay… buy a syn jacket that fits… you will find some companies fit you better than others (ex: I can’t wear Patagonia technical items as my arms are too long so my wrists are exposed) and buy what is lightest. I would say look at for something water resistant with a hood. Weights will vary with warmth… if you get a heavier warmer one take less clothes and if you get a lighter one take more clothes. Is this what you are looking for?

Do you plan on taking it out with you in questionable weather or is this a fair weather only jacket? This will narrow the field to either down or synthetic...

Suds I would steer you towards a solo aider from Wren Industries... it’s the same design that Roc Exotica (division of Petzl back in the day I believe) offered. The device is constantly locked (one manually feeds rope through the device) so you can use it for tension when top stepping in aiders... a nice feature. Additionally one can fall upside down (or any other orientation) and the device will still function… even with out a chest harness as the device is constantly locked… with that said I would still highly recommend wearing a chest harness anytime you are wearing a large rack as the weight in combination with the likely hood of catching a foot over a daisy chain greatly increases the likelihood of an upside down fall. Also the device is designed to accommodate a chest harness (biner holes as apposed to the swedge cable design shown above). Speaking of which Chirp: how strong do you think that swedged cable loop actually is? I would encourage you to look into swedge cable ratings and reconsider you current step up. You might be bidding on the farm… Suds: if you do plan to also solo rock climb with it buy a silent partner… the best one going for a smooth feed. And if you are interested in trying out a soloist or solo aider I have both and would be happy to let you borrow them as a prepurchase test drive.

Bump. Recent discussion with individuals who have climbed this route prior to or after the rock fall has raised a number of questions that none of us can answer or reach a consensus on. I have contacted everyone I know who has climbed this route; unfortunately this is a short list (my fault… not the routes). If you have climbed or attempted this route or know someone who has and have not got a pm could you contact me? Additionally: if you have higher resolution pics of the pillar from any vantage point could you let me know (pre or post rock fall). They would greatly help. Finally: I realize this thread is in spray but I would like to keep the discussion (if any) limited to the pillar. Thanks in advance!

OldManRock Rock on! The brothers definitely put up some tough stuff back in the day... cheers to you for carrying there stuff... I have a number of photos I’d like to show you… perhaps you could trace the route on them so we could offer a more accurate route description for future suitors. Get a hold of me if this is an option… I could mail you prints or a CD.

I personally prefer 70 m ropes especially twins or doubles... For all alpine I take the 70s. No problem with rope drag either. I guess I like them as it is easier to link 2 pitches into 1 (or at WA pass 3 pitches into 1).

Hmmm... if anything I have heard people start earlier on the DC so they don't get stuck behind the gumbies on route as passing is dangerous...

I am leaving today: can you send them by 6ish? Anything from white rocks or anything looking at the Chickamin Glacier from the North would be great. PM me and I can give you an email address...

Just think... tomorrow you will be closer in age to all the crusty turds that lurk this page than youngins like me Hope the next year was as good as last year (and you don't have to try a climb 3 times to summit). Happy birthday superstar!

SYNOPSIS...A COLD UPPER LEVEL TROUGH IN THE GULF OF ALASKA WILL MOVE SOUTHEAST INTO THE REGION THROUGH THE WEEKEND. THIS WILL KEEP A COOL AND SHOWERY AIR MASS OVER THE AREA AND WILL GIVE A CHANCE OF THUNDERSTORMS THIS AFTERNOON AND EVENING. THE TROUGH WILL SHIFT INLAND LATE SUNDAY ALLOWING HIGH PRESSURE TO BUILD OVER WESTERN WASHINGTON EARLY NEXT WEEK. THE HIGH WILL GIVE DRY CONDITIONS WITH AREAS OF NIGHT AND MORNING FOG. ADDITIONAL FRONTAL SYSTEMS WILL GIVE INCREASING CLOUDS AND A CHANCE OF RAIN TO THE AREA WEDNESDAY THROUGH THE END OF NEXT WEEK.

I am leaving PDX around 6/7 pm and driving through Seattle. Chances are it will get very wet though. PM me.

Does anyone have recent (within the last 2 weeks) photos of the Chickamin Glacier? Preferable from White Rocks (Ptarmigan Traverse), Spire, Sentinel or the Dome col? PM me please.

I was replying to Off White and Squid.

And what about calling ice girl at home too Scott? Lonely in Canada?

Might I add while she was still 17?

From the guy that called Hannah at home from Canada numerous times to plead her to "go climbing with him?" Don't you also call her "babes?"

Are you telling me you don't let you girlfriend IM with other males?

What is this? The dark ages? Defend her honor? WTF are you talking about?

In the main index, in the description of the Spray forum (which this thread is in right now) is this line: Be warned this forum is not for the thin skinned. Yeah but dissing someone in the spray forum instead of posting a constructive comment directly in there TR is weak... especially if you won't name names.