John Frieh

I expect Pete to be there and at least half as drunk as he was at tuff love

Any chance we could have this during the week...? Weekends are for climbing IMO... Monday - Wednesday nights are great for me.

Leavenworth Ranger station (509-548-6977) does not know complete status however NO GATE up yet... Anybody drive it recently? s if you can help me out.

Bubbas in bondage. Picnic lunch. Jim: hook move? Knowing you I'm surprised you haven't freed it yet.

Yup. If you want to nail go do Bubba's.

My first time up l. crack we bogged down and ended up sleeping on the "bivy ledge" at the top of 5 and promptly bailed the next day. The next time I was hit by falling snow. Made it my third attempt... Mad props to anybody getting out and climbing something.

Have you actual done this? What is your ape index? Doesn't everyone do it this way? It takes like 5 minutes. And I have a -1" ape index I have a +6 to shoe size.

What is 13? The PP variation? I heard it was 5.8... Route #13a in the guidebook you numberchasing grade monkey Ahhh... route number... not grade. Need... more... coffee.

Personal preference. I have both my aider and adjustable daisy on the locking biner in a two aider system. In moving, I clip a free biner to the piece (or bolt) and clip the locker/aider/daisy to the biner. Then I bounce, get on that aider, and then move the second locker/aider/daisy to the free biner. This keeps the two aiders vertically aligned and allows me to move either the left or right l/a/d to the next piece. I'll lock the biners at anchors at the end of pitches. Other people use different systems. That works for sure but why not save some wear and tear on your locker and get more reach for the next placement (you are higher above your piece if your aider is clipped into the top biner) by keeping the locker on your harness until you hit the belay? I think this would speed you up some and not have to deal with open gates.

What is 13? The PP variation? I heard it was 5.8...

Have you actual done this? What is your ape index?

Watch the freezing level and weather.

Do the variation... you 2 pitches to Bohn street instead of 1... both are super fun. Also there is a variation to panic point (starts at same point PP does) that goes way right (climbers) instead of straight up to the nose... I haven't done it yet but heard its 5.8 fun to the top.

Pitch 4... right? If so... looks like somebody aided it or is a serious seamstress...

Perhaps Iceguy can shed some light into the matter... Iceguy: any comments?

Come out to rocky! You can pump yourself stupid in an hour and then hit burro loco #3 afterwards!

Shorts WITHOUT poly pro!

Where did you hear that? They are advertised on grivelusa.com as unreplaceable (see my link above)... that would be sweet if they were.

I have 2 valdezes... awesome pack for alpine but it might be a little flismy for extended ski carrying... if you want I could loan you one of them for a test drive...

There was an article in Rock and Ice or climbing about a year ago giving updated info regarding the cirque. I believe the article focused on two uncompleted routes on the vampire spires... I have it somewhere and could dig it up for you if want... let me know.

For those of us who care (if you don't STFU) we agree on the dates but what can and can't happen during this period? Approach?

No skis. pic

Agreed but does the approach also have to be completed within that time period? What about the climb itself? So far I have only heard one person say that the climber must be on the summit after the first day of winter.

Then how is claiming a first ski (and the kids seem to be interested in reporting if it was alpine, tele or snowboard) descent any different than a first winter ascent? Seems you are interested in those...

Access where? Biles are ILLEGAL in most climbing areas (enchantments, etc). Biles are great avy triggers too. I always love watching the kids high point in that gulley above the hair pin turn east of WA pass... natural selection real time.