John Frieh

I wouldn't doubt for a second the years of experience you have wiggling around in dark tight warm places Rudy. At least your packing protection...

classic. This has got to be the climbing equivalent to a girl fight... a boulder/sporto pissing match (only RuMR can't pull Mr E's hair ). RuMR: what do you even own a # 5 for? paperweight?

Post deleted by NOLSe

So which one should I buy so I can start practicing?

Alpinist. Not as pornorific as the mag but still hot. Has significant FA dates on the calender to remind you what country you should be in climbing instead of at work . And Guy Edwards is Mr. February.

Own a 4.5 and 5 also... looking at getting a # 6 next. I have used them on 4 - 5 routes a year (multiple placements per route) so they have paid for themselves... but I'm like E... I seek those routes out. Now would be a good time to pick up the old models for cheap.

drop it like its hott

Careful... Iain "Icy Couloir" Morris is gonna get ya!

Haven't climbed in OR much have you? Just kidding... I agree... mine are merely the best of what I have climbed IMO...

If you didn't know Finger of Fate is in the Sawtooths in Idaho… if you want to go climb this let me know… I climb it at least once a year. And if you drive that far you should also climb some routes on the elephant’s perch which is a hop skip and a jump from the finger… recommended routes include the mtneers route (the roof pitch is spectacular 5.8), astro elephant (I can only pick one pitch?), and definitely the fine line (these three routes are all on the elephant’s perch among other classics… I have topos for almost all of them in my gallery). Jason headed for the 3 tier roof on the Mtneers route: Ron sniffing his butt (yet again) mid roof: Brock sewing on lower astro: Astro Elephant is in center of face (kinda makes WA pass look puny huh?): WA pass awesome pitches: Hand crack on Rebel Yell (wine spires… sorry no pics). If you’re into wideness the offwidth/chimney pitches (pitches 6 and 7) on e face of Lexington are a hoot. Bring a 2” by 6” and a saw or some tube chocks and wear either a crappy shirt or even better a leather vest for thrashing in the wideness: I agree with fox… the upper pitches of the w face of NEWS are a hoot… especially if you link pitches (linkable pitches). willstrickland’s pic: The 8th (7 if you run 6 and 7 together which you should) on liberty crack is great (sorry no pic… there is a roof right off the anchor so the belayer can’t see you). Enchantments: The 5.6 slab with crack splitting it on the n ridge of stuart is absolute an alpine setting classic… especially if you don’t have bivy gear on your back. But then again the whole ridge is. Basically climb this route in your lifetime and pick the pitch you like most. But don’t let yourself climb it until you are competent enough to do it in a day. From above: Running: The upper pitches of the west ridge of stuart in winter/early spring are awesome… climbing onto the north face past the pin is some awesome exposure. Climb Stuart Glacier Couloir or Razorback ridge to access these. Loren’s (cascadeclimber) pic: [chestbeat] The rock fall variation on the girth pillar is granite perfection. Please bring me my crampons back if you climb it [/chestbeat]. Zoom in Prusik: climb all the routes and pick your fav. Goatboy: excellent discussion… I wish more people would chime in… can anyone comment on - central pillar of swiss peak - Cutthroat - Firefighter - SEWS – Infurno - Stuart – Kearney route - Lexington - Tooth and Claw

Canister stoves generally don't need insulation from the ground... or I should say I don't carry my Frisbee when the jet boil goes... mine gets out with the XGK. Make sense? And a shovel blade can work but most shovel blades aren't flat so you risk spilling your dinner.

A quick one: stove stand. Cut a piece of cardboard to shape/size desired. Wrap cardboard in HVAC tape (shiny aluminum tape that is heat resistant... find at local hardwear store). Use use use until dead (they tend to last awhile). Can be folded for easy storage and weighs nothing. If you plan to be out for awhile or desire an expedition worthy one you can always cut the bottom off a 5 gallon platic bucket and wrap it in HVAC tape. A little heavier than the cardboard version but lasts forever. Either one makes a great rest day Frisbee (just be careful on the glaciers) and smokes the MSR version. I'll try to get a few others posted.

Getting someone on the page to let you tag along I think would be a more fulfilling and a better learning experience for you. WRT guides/outdoor professionals though there are some guides out there who are competent and qualified that are not either AMGA or IFMGA certified/endorsed you can always rest assured if your guide is AMGA and/or IFMGA certified.

What you got? What do you like? Is the Pieps overpriced? Can I just wear my pager and have my buddy page me when I get buried? Discuss.

The grivel candela smokes them all:

yo!

What about Razorback Ridge, Blue Moon in June and NE face? All haven't seen winter ascents... and that's just Stuart...

Second on snowshoeing sucking... I like to think of it as a necessary evil for carry over routes. WRT MSR's latest offering I think they are too heavy. Atlas makes a pair that are the same dimensions but are under 2 lbs for the pair. I would think one would want to get the lightest pair possible if you are going to have to climb with them in your pack.

werd werd werd. Ten (or so) Best Indy Label hip hop LP's of the year in some particular order: Madvillain (MF DOOM & Madlib) - Madvillainy Foreign Exchange (Phonte & Nicolay) - Connected Royce 5'9 - Death is Certain De La Soul - The Grind Date Leak Bros (Cage + Tame One) Waterworld Murs & 9th Wonder - Murs 3:16 The Roots - The Tipping Point (not exactly Indy though) MF DOOM - MM Food Jean Grae - This week RJD2 - Since we last spoke (not exactly Indy though) Albums I am stoked for in 2005: Immortal Technique - Revolutionary Vol 3 (run for cover bitches! download vols 1 and 2 or pm me and I will burn them for you... so hot he gets Mumia to do the intro to vol 2 live from death row) MF DOOM & DJ Danger Mouse - Danger Doom Common - B.E. Royce 5'9 & Nottz - untitled Dr. Dre - Detox Jean Grae & 9th Wonder - Jeanius Sage Francis - A Healthy Distrust Vast Aire & DJ Mighty Mi - The Best Damn Rap Show Clipse - Hell Hath No Fury K.M.D. - Mental Illness

If I could only pick one (or can we pick more?) it would have to be the fifth pitch of the open book route on finger of fate (though most people run 3 and 4 together to make it 4):

Because its like 20' tall. Maybe. Its cheap and good for bouldering but that is about it. PM ajm if you want more info... she use to work there.

Thanks. And iceguy is right about this it happened to me and has since been fixed.

NOLS climbing courses range from 1 to 3 months.

SR20 never closed in the winter of 1976... man what a winter for FWA that would have been...

werd werd werd. Having giardia while doing a glacier traverse is not fun. A friend of mine had giardia bad on one course... at least once a day he would yell "zero" and proceed to attempt to get out of his glacier rig in under a minute to avoid blowing twinkes inside his goretex. Truly a comical event to witness... And the old adage goes: take a chance... shit your pants. A particular scene from this movie comes to mind: