John Frieh

And do the variation from the other side. Much better. Start early to avoid getting stuck behind someone who jugs the bolt ladder.

Most pull on the draws and avoid aiders all together. With that said this would be a good opportunity to practice using aiders. A few draws is all you need. Don't make the second (or third) jug unless they have ample jug experience. It is free hanging and traverses which can make for some gaping unless you have experience with this kind of jugging. Direct aid following is much much faster in this situation. You will need 2 ropes to get off the monkey. Trail a second and just pull it up while your second direct aid follows the bolts. Belay them as they come up. PS: fifi hook is your friend.

Oh yeah... I recommend the scenic overlook for camping as it has running water... though a no camping sign is posted so be discreet.

Most crash at Blue Lake Trailhead. As people arrive all night (like those driving all the way from PDX ) it tends to be on the noisy side (if you are a light sleeper). Other quieter options include the scenic look out (across the street) or at the hairpin turn just past the pass crest. There are no restaurants in Mazama. Just a coffee shop/general store that closes much earlier than you will finish climbing. Another 20 minutes or so will put you in Wintrop where restaurants tend to stay open later (depends on whether or not "summer hours" are in effect). I have had good luck at the pub. FYI: the night time speeding limit for deer is strictly enforced.

Plains 100 (here in the state of WA) is the hardest 100 miler (with the exception of badwater) IMO.

Still present.

So does this mean you'll come out when the weather is warm and dry Pete? And will you bring Butch? It is almost June!

gyselinck climbed prussik roughly a month ago... I know since then the range has had some snow fall so his tracks will likely be covered. Shoot him a pm if you have specific questions. Most rock I have encountered the past few weekends has been wet and/or snow covered. Hope this helps!

Which couloir are you planning on coming up to access the col? I have some pics I could email you if that is what you are looking for.

Boot pack all the way in. Snow is going fast. Which route(s) are you looking at?

You can generally pass it on the rock on the right... or drop in for some more ice climbing!

Ice cliff glacier - Mt Stuart would be worth your time and you could top the route out.

Long story short: encountered a particularly dense section of brush on yesterday's trail run... turned my head sideways and slightly down so I wouldn't get swatted in the eyes by a branch. In doing this I managed to perfectly plant a tree branch end (which just happened to be slightly smaller than the diameter of my ear canal) deep in my left ear canal at running speed. The branch didn't break off in my ear but it did promptly lay me on the deck. I’m fairly sure I didn’t rupture the ear drum as I can still pop my ear drums… however my ear has proceeded to leak noticeable amounts of blood and clear fluid on and off since then. My ear canal currently feels like I have water lodged in it. My layman assumption would be this is normal and a part of the healing process and I have no reason to go to the doc especially since I am not in pain however... does someone know something I don't? I am risking hearing loss by not going?

Nice TR Craig. Quick edit: we were looking at NE face (not NW). PDX in the house! Pics as requested... NEC from base: Upper NEC (large snowfield) and the descent gulley (on the left... not the route) as viewed from Colchuck: 1st rock step: Final rock step: Into the fog: Sorry I didn't take too many photos for the slog over to colchuck or dragontail.

We climb until we are too pumped too (or if Ivan hits himself in the head with his adze ). Start something... only the truly interested people (the type of people you want to climb with anyways) will attend and the rest of the cats can sit at home and spray .

Perhaps it is an age thing (specifically my lack of) but my understanding of the term “pump” when used to describe a climbing induced condition is a state when one has reached muscle failure and “pumped out” due to a build up of lactic acid in the forearms. Synonyms include “flame” or “flamed out”, “gripped” or “gripped out”, and so on. And I said my understanding because chances are I am wrong! It was my impression that the term “pump” was as commonplace in a climber’s vocabulary as “beta"… perhaps I was mistaken or... perhaps this is you baiting me yet again… you are the only individual I know that precluded their formal introduction with the phrase “you might want to hit me”… If you truly are interested you and the SEA kids should organize some type of climb (sport, trad, aid, dtool) night… based on the turnout you get for weekly pub clubs I don’t see why you wouldn’t see a lot of interest. This is a climbing board with a drinking problem... not a drinking board with a climbing problem... right?

Next session will be Tuesday May 17th 3:30ish – pump. Call me if you are coming... 541.231.2062. Holla! Also: is anyone interested in starting a weekly rock climbing night? Sport, trad, aid, drytool... I don't care... I'm just looking for some consistent weekly climbers. Give me a shout if you are interested!

Sorry this is so late but I had to put some more miles on my car. Here is link to my pic of the NW face from 2 weekends ago: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=10506&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 Based on what I saw this weekend (sorry no pic) I can assure you unless you are drytooling (if you are let me know... I'd like to go) it isn't in.

Jim: in my gallery. You could climb it but you would really have to force it. I think NE face or NE face of false summit looked a lot better than NW face IMO (its what I'm trying this weekend... hope to see some other ccers in there!). My truck isn't fast but it is fast enough... I think I have like 15 moving violations or something in the past 10 years or so... I did put 40K miles on it in 9 months time last year... hoping to beat that mark this year. Roadtrip!

When my knees degenerate to a mass of cartilage, bone chunks and torn muscle I plan to take it up also. Then I can post things like: "Found: partially digested fish bait in stomach of world record shark I caught over the weekend with my bare hands. Identify bait type and I will return."

Gavin at US Outdoor in PDX has a few... don't know if he is looking to sell.

I don't fish My girl is suppose to teach me this summer and oh yeah... earth tones match my complexion much better... do they have it in burnt chili?

Dunno. Still wearin' them fairy scarves? Yes... still rocking the bandana. This means Mos Def is gay too huh?

Nice try but that doesn't fit the stereotype d00d! My understanding was that you and the turds claimed that I only report gear found on hard routes that I want to chestbeat about... not that I was a neutrino biner junkie... right? Or did you turds change it again? And while we're on the subject: am I still gay? What about Dan H? Anything else?

I just love meeting people and telling them who I am and watching their response. Shit is hilarious... I still vote for a cc.com gang sign. Good TR! Anybody headed into Stuart this coming weekend keep an eye/ear out!