John Frieh

Agreed. DT is only acceptable on DT routes. Even one or two people (not a critical mass) will seriously alter a route especially if they are new to drytooling as their footwork generally sucks. DT should not be done on rock routes regardless of how dirty/mossy/gritty it is.

TOOL? Perhaps... but the only drytooling I do is outside with ice tools which is more than most of you turds can say. You should come Rudy... its a short approach.

I have a meeting until 3 and have to pick up pandora and ajm so I should be there closer to 4ish. So far I have 3 definite and 1 maybe which will give us a total of 6 or 7. That's right turds... more girls than a PDX or Seattle Pub club (unless you count Dave Schuldt ). Better get your self some tools! Please pm me if you are considering attending so I can ensure we have enough top ropes. Forecast As always: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727

Grivel makes it though I think the length is a bit too short. Basically it’s an umbilical... where you attach it (esp. with double handle tools) is crucial if you match/swap hands often or do repetitive figure 4/9s. Post what day you guys are going… I’ll try to come up a few times!

Yeah! I'll take some pics tonight and tomorrow at PDX DT night and post them sometime Thursday. From my experiences and watching other first timers I would suggest your first few times you might want to go with leashes. Also if your interest in DTing is more for alpine preparedness I would say climb like you would in the alpine (w/ leashes).

No knock to Russ Mitrovich, but I'm fairly sure that it was Jimmy Haden was on the sharp end for that pitch. Name dropper!

Hey treknclime and alpinedave: get something going! Get Ade and anybody else interested to go with you!

I give up... I should just start blogging or something.

Alright d00d... mistype on my part. Still drytooling never hurt anyone... agreed? And Russ did turn A4 into M5/6 on the wall of shadows... My friend Brock's third trad climb/first aid route ever was ED-

For me (and just me… maybe others will agree) dry tooling is another skill much like ice, snow, rock and aid, that one needs to develop if one chooses to pursue alpine routes. Alternatively it is yet another form of climbing. Looking in any issue of alpinist you’ll see examples of how the ability to drytool/mix climb was crucial to the success of an attempt. Three I always cite are Steve’s repeat of N Twin (he drytooled the original aid crux easily), Russ’s repeat of the wall of shadow (he also easily cruised the A4 pitch with tools avoiding bringing a ledge and aid gear… he did it with leashed tools and sabertooths also) and the fact that people have turned the A.strain into a car to car affair instead of a desperate classic thanks to a little practice with the tools. But once again… that is why I do it. Some people will go just because its fun. I have fun but at the end of the day its yet another way to train for the alpine. And if you needed another excuse generally most of the crag areas with the exception of some desert spots stay wet all winter so what can you do? Stand in line at the gym while Layton hits on your girlfriend? Maybe… but I just get more out of being outside… so I drytool. With all that said if I had a choice I would rock climb year round... but I don't so I drytool. If you guys get a night up there I'd be stoked to come up and get in on the action. You kids just need to pick a night and plan it... people will come.

Classic. I'd be interested in getting all the info you have.

Honestly anything that isn’t an established route or in a developed area is fair game. More specifically it would rude to assume that something is tool material just because it isn’t in the guidebook that it hasn’t or won’t be done… JosephH is a prime example of people finding new routes in areas that people thought were cleaned out and sending. Basically if it looks like choss reach for your tools. Things I would look for in your area: - good TR anchor options that you can access without having to lead the route. Preferable one can TR multiple lines off the same anchor. - Thin (pick size) cracks seem to be the best for people new to drytooling for pick placements. Hooking and camming can be frightening at first so starting out on routes that require a lot of that might be a bit much if not discouraging. - small positive edges… the more the merrier for foot placements. Unless you are driving monos you are going to do a lot of scratching on thin cracks searching for feet placements… edges alleviate this problem. - the longer the better. Ideally 30 m routes. - close to town. Driving 40 minutes for slightly better routes equals less climbing time. Honestly anything works… I “boulder”on a brick wall near my house. If you can find an out of the way concrete wall/bridge underpass/etc take your Bosch out and manufacture a route. I started on a bridge near my house but I’m moving soon so I am waiting to see where I buy before I finish it. Other good suspects include road cuts, old buildings, and local choss heaps everywhere. And finally: you could always move to PDX . Have fun J and where ever you go take mr. early retirement with you! He could use something to do.

In California.

You know anything beyond 3 days is nothing more than a best guess. Sell your skis and get some leashless tools...

Is it the same one you make when you try the lefthand lieback crack? Wednesday the 26th is the plan... please notify me by pm that you are coming and if you need to borrow anything. I was out there last night and the crag was actually dry... saw some kids on the silver bullet wall... people might want to bring rock shoes if they are interested in taking advantage of this dry weather. I tried out the new line Mac cleaned earlier this week... mommy! I am so sore today.

This week I am house shopping on Tuesday How about Wednesday? Also: McKenzie and I should be out there tonight... Mac scoped a new line that is twice as tall as what we have been climbing and pulls a roof at the top.

Myself and 2 partners I climb with that don't post on this site would each buy a pair.

Tuesdays are my preference. Every other Wednesday is Euchre night.

Profit sharing is the shit hmmm... snowmobile perhaps? Hey Jason! Better hurry up and graduate so you can get in on this. If not you can come be my intern this summer.

5.10 newtons Scarpa Marathon La Sportiva mythos or focus

Not much later than you... all this beer drinking and house shopping is zapping my send strength Need to increase my coffee intake. What night next week you turds?

If you go Michael 70m ropes are the only way to go; unless of course you are simulclimbing the ridge. If you go I left some biners up there… can you bring them back? They are marked with dried blood from all the climbing partners I failed to ask if they had any allergies prior to climbing with them and subsequently had to kill.

It was. He had a cam hook like object taped on. Good article though it was confusing: did they get the FA or not?

My 4 mm quads are still going strong; I did bend a 3mm pick last month or so. My concern isn't snapping/bending it as much as repeated sharpening until nothing was left but stubs. Seems kinda consumption lifestyle/Americana to just “throw the whole thing away and buy another" when one could obviously minimize the amount of what is being disposed of. Just my 2 cents. Harkin: are you related to Dwayner?

I'll poll people this week to see what night people prefer... I'd be happy to organize 2 different sessions a week if people can't settle on one. As far as which night we meet next week let's wait and see what people like before we start advertising a certain night. Personally I would like to avoid Thursdays as I tend leave for WA Thursday nights for weekends that I skip out on work Fridays. Wednesday and Tuesday nights work better for me. Layton (and everybody else): Ivan is usually there first at 3:30; I tend to roll in between 3:30 and 4 and we go until people have had enough. I don't want to stay later than 9ish though... so get your butt there as soon as you can. And FYI all: 3 separate protests scheduled for today downtown so avoid the guaranteed traffic mess. And as always: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727