John Frieh

I thought the 2005 AAJ preface succintly summed up why the 2004 Jannu ascent was more a failure than a success. Style still matters. Always has. Always will.

The Mt Defiance trail in the gorge gains just under 5000' in 5.7 miles. A great run

NF of Bear hasnt been done in winter. But yeah agree with you

Wednesday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 35. South southeast wind around 6 mph. Wednesday Night: Snow likely. Cloudy, with a low around 23. South southwest wind around 7 mph. Chance of precipitation is 60%. New snow accumulation of 8 to 12 inches possible. Thursday: Snow. High near 28. South wind between 5 and 8 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%. New snow accumulation of 10 to 16 inches possible. Thursday Night: A 50 percent chance of snow. Cloudy, with a low around 21. New snow accumulation of 1 to 2 inches possible. Friday: Snow likely. Cloudy, with a high near 27. Chance of precipitation is 70%. New snow accumulation of less than one inch possible. Friday Night: Snow likely. Cloudy, with a low around 20. Saturday: Snow likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 26. Saturday Night: Snow likely. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 20. Sunday: Snow likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 28. Sunday Night: Snow likely. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 21. Monday: Snow likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 30.

"In" is relative. Based on the photo I'd say it's at least worth the hike to have a better look but given the forecast I'd say you have until Wednesday afternoon to climb it

:rawk:

Nothing really to add beyond since you're driving dont worry about deciding until right before you go. Let avy conditions and temps decide for you... if it's going to be super cold or jacked up avy in CAN head to Cody... if conditions look good head to Canada. You cant beat CAN in prime conditions but unfortunately prime conditions dont exist all winter.

Maybe we can get Amber to pop out of a cake? Or Chaps will post some sweet Minnesota cragging photos? Congrats duders! Looking forward to a sausage fest one of these days

I've got a used MX I'm selling but I suspect it might be too warm for you... depends on what you wear underneath or on your legs. I often wear very little on my legs to allow for slightly warmer jackets on top

- climbing as a team of 3 on multi or alpine route - leader leading on both lines; clipping ropes as doubles - each follower following on 1 of the strands if the route had a pitch that traversed greatly I would consider switching to clipping both as twins as to minimize potential for a big fall for one of the seconds

Good to see marriage didnt mellow you out. Homo. Speaking of ice tools: are we going ice climbing this winter?

I've got a pair of G20s also (can't let Dane have all the fun ) but havent taken them out yet. Not to name drop too much but House raved about them... said he climbed on only them all last year

1 vote for Grivel G-22s which Pro Mtn Sports also stocks!

come on man... though I wish I dont have the super hook up at Petzl

+1 for Monster ropes. About as light as Beal ropes but the dry coating just wont quit. Best dry coat I have ever used

Did they contact you or did you email them and ask?

Cool good info. One more question: did you send them the picks you had in them or did you keep them?

Did you have to ship back your old pair? Or did they already have them?

Yeah, those walls look like climbs where it would be difficult to pick out any particular route line that would not vary by year and fluctuations in condition. Makes it a challenge when every attempt is a quasi first attempt..... How about the NF of North Twin, now that's another rugged wall! NF North Twin Spring attempt NF North Twin Fall attempt Great pics Steph. How long before you get your pilot's license?

Dartwins for sale

Solid GOLD!

1999?, Frenchmen Lionel Daudet and Sebastien Foissac, SW buttress/S face, third ascent. and the north/northeast arete, that's had an ascent, right? anyway, great climb gents... fantastic area & a highly compelling peak.... amongst several in there... my guess is you had some nice views of DT's incredible nw face... John is correct; the French have a line on it. Additionally the very first ascent was by Layton Kor... though he climbed everywhere I do believe Colorado was home base. Everything else was by PNW climbers I do believe

Thanks duder

We had to petition Dieter to "reopen the icecap" and were warned to "beware the equinox!" by a local who shall remain anonymous

Trip: Burkett Needle - East Arête "Repeat Offender" (FA) Date: 9/11/2011 Trip Report: Summary: First Ascent of the East Arête of Burkett Needle on September 11th 2011. Dave Burdick, John Frieh and Zac West. “Repeat Offender” IV 5.9 M5 AI3 Details: On September 9th, 2011 Dave Burdick, Zac West and I (John Frieh) flew to the Burkett Glacier in the heart of SE Alaska’s Stikine Icecap. A rare two-day weather window had appeared in between the record storms and rainfall that had been hammering the area all summer long. Our intentions on Mt. Burkett were soon abandoned after observing how active and broken the hanging glacier on the approach was in its fall state. Instead we turned our attentions to the unclimbed East Arête of Burkett Needle, a 2300’ alpine tower immediately West of Mt. Burkett. The following day our team ascended a rock rib to access the icefall below the Needle’s Southeast Face. The glacier was quite broken and required climbing into moats and up a short serac to reach the gully that leads to the base of the East Arête. Deteriorating weather caused us to bivouac at the col and attempt the climb the next day. On September 11th, we ascended steep snow and low 5th rock up the lower aspects of the East Arête to a prominent gendarme. A short wall lead up and over the gendarme to exposed rock and mixed climbing along and right of the ridge crest to the false summit. A short rappel brought us to the summit tower where our route joined the 1964 Kor-Davis North ridge. Three mixed snow and rock pitches lead to the summit. We rappelled and downclimbed the Northeast face to descend. The East Arête “Repeat Offender” (IV 5.9 M5 AI3) represents the 6th ascent of the peak. Many thanks to the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Mazama Expedition Committee for supporting our trip, Dieter Klose for support and allowing us to climb while the Icecap was “closed for the season” and to our pilot Wally from Temsco Air. Dave Burdick John Frieh Zac West 2009 First Ascent of the West Ridge of Burkett Needle "Smash and Grab" Trip Report Pictures: Yes we have many more photos and video to share but in accordance with the grant we will be putting it all together into a multimedia presentation to share at a later date (a slideshow perhaps?) so... stay tuned! Approach Notes: Temsco Air