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John Frieh

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Everything posted by John Frieh

  1. http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/recreate/reports.html#anchor253264
  2. How many of you wrote letters to Patagonia after House and Twight abandoned all their gear at the top of Czech Direct? Since Dean didn't leave any trace of his ascent you all must have been appalled at House and Twight's actions... Patagonia is not at fault here.
  3. Weasels at the butte!?!?! Infestation!
  4. Just make the fawkers hike in there! They want to experience nature? Let them do so from the hiking trail and not their heated leather seats!
  5. So in that same argument how about the NPS minimize the amount of development to these national treasures. I can't think of one park or scenic area managed by the NPS that doesn't have a mega monster visitor center pedaling trinkets and a double wide asphalt hiking trails that runs a 1/4 mile from the Walmart sized parking lot to the attraction so every overweight mouth breathing red blooded 'merican can waddle up and gape at some national treasure that they are ignorantly killing with their CO2 emissions from their 40' RV w/ matching trailer that is back in the parking lot idling so the AC can run. Did Dean damage the Arch climbing it? No. Will the arch become damaged if others repeat the feat? Over time yes. But who's to say the NPS will stop at banning climbing on named structures? They have long banned climbing on some of the best features at City of Rocks because it is "visual impact". Fuck that
  6. I'm in PHX this week... sorry! Start PMing the usual suspects d00d!
  7. I'm in PHX till Friday morning working turd Hey GaperTimmay! Are you still driving Hwy 97 up on Friday?
  8. You going to rack up some tickets this year too? The Apple blossom Festival was this past weekend and I managed to make it to Leavenworth and back unscathed... it was the festival 2 years ago that screwed me... they should rename it speed trap festival or some shit
  9. Red eyes? Temporary blindness? Sounds to me like symptoms of a rasta bivy kit... or perhaps too much time spent at Muir on Saturday? Speaking of... the rasta bivy kit is all you need... anywhere...
  10. Not me My record was expunged years ago
  11. No I didn't Guess I'm just curious about what options exist...
  12. Kearney talks about an approach to Bear Mountain via Ruth Lakes and a ridge between Bear and Indian Creeks in his Classic Climbs guidebook (p. 66). Has anyone done this approach? Is it any better than the standard Chilliwack River Road/Chilliwack River approach? What is the best approach for someone that currently isn't allowed to enter CAN? After climbing DNB last summer I'd like to get back in there and try some of the other N face routes but would like to minimize the amount of brush molestation.
  13. When was part I? Did I miss it? Thielsen is where it is at in OR
  14. John Frieh

    The Hook

    See I don't need no fing hook on this beat (Shiieet) All I need, is the track in the background My headphones loud, keep the blunt goin 'round and I'ma rip
  15. PM sent
  16. He better lose her soon or he won't have enought angst to attempt anything this summer Goodbye R/X rating
  17. I bet ya either that girl doesn't know what google is or more likely she thinks his name is Michael Smith
  18. Rumor has it he has a girlfriend though with climbing season rapidly approaching... I think this will be a true test to see if Mikey truly hates Portland and moves back to Bellingham again this summer...
  19. I would agree that I am still in the top 3 and likely a future cc.com hall of famer
  20. Drilled pockets Not me. Great route to DT though
  21. It's official. Gary is responsible for more cc.com "buzz words" than I am in the above phrase! Gary Yngve: you are the new CC.COM BITCH Good luck!
  22. Almost always you don't encounter any crevasses until you are above the ice climbing step in the upper cirque. Basically climb the ice cliff on the left... this time of year you should be able to get super high on snow before you need to break out the tools and screws. Who ever leads tell them to head left towards the rocks once they get past the cliff and you will likely find a pin over there as well as plenty of opportunity for a rock belay. Bring up the second; get into a glacier rig and head up the upper couloir. You should be able to simuclimb all the way to the final step (depending on comfort level) where you can one last lead to gain the summit slopes. Have fun!
  23. Then again if you are from Colorado there is no hope for your ass.
  24. Find an area that you can fix a line on routes from above without having to climb the route (i.e. be able to walk to the top). Rap in and solo aid (belaying w/ a gri gri or something) until you can ID a gear placement first time every time. Once you start getting good at it start doing it at night. Goal is to be gear placement master. Learn to trust your gear and that falling is okay. Fall until you aren't scared of falling anymore. Skip bolts and whip... place marginal gear and then bomber shit below that and see if the marginal gear will actually hold. This will take some awareness and even better a watchful eye but if you can learn to whip it will only help you. Master your snow footwork. This will be difficult as you can't get on snow everyday (or can you?) but you need to increase your comfort level for steep snow to the point that you can solo anything up to 70ish degrees or WI2/3. It won't happen overnight but it will speed you up. Also learn the different types of snow/ice and how to climb each of them. Think of each of them as a different type of rock climbing: crack, slab, face, etc Climb as much as possible as Gene said. Climb climb climb. You should be climbing a few times a week year round. Rock when it is dry... drytool/aid when it is wet. If you don't practice in the rain/wet at the crags what are you going to do in the mountains? Cardio cardio cardio like E said. Run for time not distance. Run till you bonk and then turn around. Find partners more motivated than you. Try to climb with them as much as possible.
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