John Frieh

I would agree that I am still in the top 3 and likely a future cc.com hall of famer

Drilled pockets Not me. Great route to DT though

It's official. Gary is responsible for more cc.com "buzz words" than I am in the above phrase! Gary Yngve: you are the new CC.COM BITCH Good luck!

Almost always you don't encounter any crevasses until you are above the ice climbing step in the upper cirque. Basically climb the ice cliff on the left... this time of year you should be able to get super high on snow before you need to break out the tools and screws. Who ever leads tell them to head left towards the rocks once they get past the cliff and you will likely find a pin over there as well as plenty of opportunity for a rock belay. Bring up the second; get into a glacier rig and head up the upper couloir. You should be able to simuclimb all the way to the final step (depending on comfort level) where you can one last lead to gain the summit slopes. Have fun!

Then again if you are from Colorado there is no hope for your ass.

Find an area that you can fix a line on routes from above without having to climb the route (i.e. be able to walk to the top). Rap in and solo aid (belaying w/ a gri gri or something) until you can ID a gear placement first time every time. Once you start getting good at it start doing it at night. Goal is to be gear placement master. Learn to trust your gear and that falling is okay. Fall until you aren't scared of falling anymore. Skip bolts and whip... place marginal gear and then bomber shit below that and see if the marginal gear will actually hold. This will take some awareness and even better a watchful eye but if you can learn to whip it will only help you. Master your snow footwork. This will be difficult as you can't get on snow everyday (or can you?) but you need to increase your comfort level for steep snow to the point that you can solo anything up to 70ish degrees or WI2/3. It won't happen overnight but it will speed you up. Also learn the different types of snow/ice and how to climb each of them. Think of each of them as a different type of rock climbing: crack, slab, face, etc Climb as much as possible as Gene said. Climb climb climb. You should be climbing a few times a week year round. Rock when it is dry... drytool/aid when it is wet. If you don't practice in the rain/wet at the crags what are you going to do in the mountains? Cardio cardio cardio like E said. Run for time not distance. Run till you bonk and then turn around. Find partners more motivated than you. Try to climb with them as much as possible.

Word. I was just razzing him

Climbing outside in the sunshine on real rock sucks. Come climb the same 3 16' routes on plywood in my garage.

Which are even shittier. Cloudveil gloves With the exception of the Alibi glove... sweet pair of mixed gloves! And if it's warm enough (around here it usually is) you can lead in them... awesome dexterity

Good points dude. Time wise it is completely your call... I am slightly impatient so for me I would want to saturate over a couple weeks so that I could start practicing my skills immediately. But that is just me... My thoughts are this... your NOLS course gave you a good background in rope management, knots and general "don't do this in the backcountry". You'd be surprised how quickly you can pick rock up from this background... all you need is some initial instruction (whether it be a crash course or w/ the mounties) and then just need to practice practice practice it just like Gene said. I think the mounties would be a great option for you as you have a baseline for what you consider essential so you won't take everything they preach (20 essentials) as gospel and...you'll find some good partners For what it's worth I did a crash course with a guy for two weeks at skinnners butte in Eugene, OR (nothing over 40') and for his first multipitch trad climb was Monkey's Face (first time to Smith), his second multipitch was Outer Space (first climb in the state of WA ever), and his third multipitch climb (second climb in the state of WA ever) was Liberty Crack. And all with in the length of 2 months. He wasn't in over his head (though the exposure on LC was a bit unnerving) because we did things over and over and over and he learned speed is essential. So yeah... it all depends on how fast you want to get into it... Have fun out there!

I'll believe when I see it Kirby.

And jesus if you are NOLS alum you are well set on the basics already... if anything you could teach the basic course. Shoot me a pm and lets get climbing.

Cost is always a concern but generally you get what you pay for. Some of the skills (knots, LNT, etc) are fundamental and the mounties would likely be a good venue for that. But I have a hard time recommending a group that has their students do introductory multipitch trad in rain gear with the ten essentials on their back... Maybe the mounties don't officially require this but something is going on as everytime I see them at Castle the poor kids are thrashing around in some 5.6 chimney sewing like crazy scared to shit in full rain gear with a 1000 c.i. pack on their back. Why? If you can afford it go with AAI, MM, etc as you will get a more realistic alpine education... if not go with the mounties but do sanity checks on what you learn as much as possible. And trying to connect with people on this board would be wise too.

Sir Lance... aka the AntiDr Flash Amazing... by chance have you climbed the Doomed Crack? I heard a rumor its only a 11b face move at the bottom and the crack itself is only 10d... truth? A herd of us will be out at the free area... please consider gracing us with your great presence...

Hey Archie... are you coming to the picnic?

Post deleted by Off_White

Registered on cc.com

26th - 29th CoR pub club

Where you camping? A crew of us will be staying at the free spot

3... 2... 1... till someone posts the man titties photo

Yes sir indeed... but now you can go straight from the outpost to the soaking tub without driving...

See you there! Rumor has it there is a hot tub and swimming pool in Almo now... 5 bucks! I wonder if a certain cc.comer will keep her bikini top on?

Is Scurlock still showing pics?

Wow, or anybody. Least they're going for it. Gary, if we ever do get out together. I suck....suck big.. and I know it. I'm old fat and slow. But I don't want to hear about it. I want encouragement like Nolse, Joseph, Larry, Ivan PDK and a most everybody gives. Climbing for me, about working hard, learning and having fun. Hows the dude gonna learn how to hand jam Karate crack if he never does it? Tuck that info away for future reference. I suck, but don't remind me. It would be like pissing on my fun-O-meter. The best part is Bill climbed cracks years ago in high top EBs w/ passive gear that 98% of cc.com turds would be lucky to snag a TR on. But the Bill sets an excellent example here... He doesn't routes for grades, style points, neutrinos, and you will never hear him hassle others... he just climbs because he loves it. Why do you climb Gary?