John Frieh

Complete North Ridge of Mt. Stuart, Guy Edwards, 6:47, car to car. October 2001.

Will do my best... I can't leave work till 5 pm so it will be close. I have a if it helps...

No one died wishing they had worked more... unless you are one of those lucky few that actually truly do love their job Do what you gotta do... we should still be there... look for a gray ... we should be near by

What... you don't have to sample cake flavors tonight? Kirb dog in da house

Roll call turds... so far Bill, KG and me tonight around 5:30... anybody else? What you gonna do instead? Go home and watch TV?

Maybe I should just stop getting hairbender depth charges...

Good point... I need to switch to decaf EDIT: You gotta agree though... speed is generally safety.

Yeah... taking 3 days to climb a whole bunch of 4th class + 2 pitches of 5.6 is really relaxing... Spend 2 days on a ridge with no water so you are dehydrated as fuck and then go climb with a 40 lb pack on your back (which isn't doing your coordination situation any favors) a bunch of horizontal pitches where your potential fall distance is much greater unless you bring a big wall rack and sew the shit out it. And people wonder why more people get hurt on the west ridge than the north ridge Sounds real fucking relaxing to me Kevin I'm gonna start taking 3 days to climb the se corner at beacon. Bivy at the tree ledge!

It seems to me August is the more common month to climb Robson... would going in late July/early August be too early? Anybody seen a TR/conditions update on any other boards for this year? Thx!

http://tumtum.com/ Excellent photo documentary of the west ridge for the purposes of route finding. Do it in a day

I bent it with my mind...

Huge guys... HUGE! Very impressive! Awesome pics! questions: Pack weight? Did you do lighter leader pack and heavier follower pack? Food for how many days? Rope system (single + tag line)? Tent or siltarp or bivy sack or ...? What else?

Few days after getting back from CAN...

Better product could be interpreted a number of ways... you should be more specific. Here is my wanker opinion to date: Currently on my second set of regular aliens... aliens are made with a softer metal and will wear out over time (especially if you are fat like me ). I also have some hybrids but those are for more specific routes The C3 head size is smaller than the alien head size thus being able to fit them into smaller placements. C3's have independent springs for the cam lobes so they do not walk at all! Super sweet! Some people whine about the C3s trigger bar being to stiff/hard to pull... I can't understand this frankly unless they max out around 5.3 but still... something worth mentioning. Both have a loop to climb... important for aid. Aliens are the staple of any aid climbers rack. Not important if you aren't going to get into aid but... I haven't used C3s in winter yet but I have a suspicion they freeze... Aliens will freeze on winter routes C3 were the cam of choice for the recent ascent of City Park... could have something to do with a sponsorship though I will mention he did whip on the #00 a number of times and didn't deform the cam lobes hardly at all. Either one is a great buy... you can't go wrong with either I think... in the end you will end up owning both if you climb a lot. If you brave (dumb?) enough to go climbing with me you can try them both out

Climb with me today?

So I figured out... or I should say I at least narrowed it down. I used that piece at least once to hammer on the end of my nut tool to remove a stuck nut on Bear. My suspicion is that motion bent the lobe... but then again I wasn't wailing on the thing so I have a hard time saying definitively that was what caused it. I have my doubts as I would have really had to have wailed on it to bend it as much as I did and I have been doing this for years and never had a problem... who knows. Maybe all this ice climbing season preparation has beefed up my swing I didn't think of it at first as I am doing my best to forget that trip all together... or at least the rap anchors and the bush... And fat? Not last time I checked... some of you turds should call me to go climbing and you can see first hand just how fat I am... or not.

KG's first time at Beacon Saturday Sunrise on the corner

Brie and I will be there at 5 before it gets obscene

Both!

I don't know! I can't think of any recent falls on that piece... the fall on gunsight was caught by a marginal red alien after a #6 nut above that popped. It was hard to capture the bend completely with my camera but that lobe is warped!

Non bent lobe Bent lobe Non bent lobe Bent lobe Can you spot the bent one?

Morning (preferred) or midday. Beacon... Ozone... whatever. John 503.758.5772

Wait a sec... Dwayner is ranked higher than me?!?!?! I want to see your data

Good work!

I'd love to hear about them. Links? Reference?