Blake

I always kinda considered it beneath the power line wall, then beneath the cirque as well. There are a couple worthwhile climbs at the cirque.

I'm with CBS. if you are using a daisy, just do an overhand knot in the webbing before the last loop. keep your biner always clipped in to the last loop and shorten up as needed.

I think the first pitch of Sagg is kinda a sandbag .10a, not 5.9. (that's up to the anchors above the awkward chimney and ringing flake, so maybe you meant stopping somewhere else.)

I want to go up and climb Yak Check this spring or summer when it dries off and melts out. Does anyone know typically when the route can be climbed, or have a guess for when things will melt out this year? Thanks!

I think i was at that particular pub club. Luke is doing his best vulture impression.

I'm selling some fancy jackets that are in really good shape. They aren't really technical climbing apparel, but still warm and comfy. Mens Medium, reversible ski jacket $40 Men's Small fleece jacket $25 Mens Medium Fleece Jacket $25 Everything is in really spankin' new condition.

Oly, I think you cut off half of my picture in the scenic category. Here's a resized version of the whole thing: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/513/photo_scenic.JPG

Oh, that makes perfect sense. Still, I would hope that your belay anchor, under any reasonable situation, is able to handle 2x the follower's body weight easily.

This is so outrageous and hilarious. If it was already posted, its worth another listen. The school teachers that post on this site should play it for their classes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gp0HyxQv97Q&eurl=

seemed about the same as Godzilla, Roger's corner, or other index .9s to us. Have fun.

Is it really the case that belaying a follower through a re-direct point above you will put more force on the anchor (if they hang) than just belaying straight off your harness?(assuming you come tight on the anchor while holding your second) If this is true, can someone explain why?

Add to the list, the last pitch of Burgundy Spire North face. There are at least two o/w options that end at the very top.

Yeah, but didn't you sorta "booty" those poles from the Lake chelan ferry?

not quite! actually, I just turned 21 today. no more sneaking into pub clubs for me!

I would not get in the habit of developing too many "rules" in climbing. Allow each situation to dictate the best course of action. Basically, connect yourself to the powerpoint using a daisy chain, a runner hitched to your harness, or the rope you are tied in to. Use two of the 3 if you want to be extra safe, and uselocking/opposed carabiners for the same reason. If you just led the pitch, and your partner will lead the next pitch, tying-in with the rope works well. If you are about to haul in all the extra rope, and then lead the next pitch, anchoring in with the rope means everything will be "upside-down". Why would you want to clip the rope into a random biner on the anchor like that, once you are off-belay on a daisy? Sure it's safe, but is there a reason? The only rationale I can imagine for merely clipping the rope through a spot on the anchor (rather than tying yourself off with it) is if the anchor is above you, you will be belaying a follower, and you don't want to have your belay device pulled downward if the 2nd hangs. Therefor you'd redirect the rope to a a point above you. This is for convenience and ease, not safety.

yeah, SS. Wholesome Fullback looks cool too, but after doing The Misunderstanding (****) nearby, we ran out of time. I think if your fingers are too fat for the crack (tight blue TCUs), then Straight shooter is harder than 5.9+ or whatever they call it. It seemed harder than Angel Crack to me, but Allison cruised it with her skinny digits.

Best pic of the trip: I was impressed with the diversity of climbing in RR. Everything from splitter cracks to long moderate face climbs. Thanks to LanceGranite for hosting us, and DBerdinka for the hike idea.

yeah, mike is confusing Snow and Storm Kings. Snowking would be a good answer to the original Question. Storm King would not.

I have a couch you can stay on a few nights a month. email me.

Bumped with new prices availability.

For Sale: Yellow Metolius TCU #2 - like new, placed maybe 2x - $30 WC Rocks Set - Used, totally safe - $35 Camp Tricams 2, 2.5, 3 - Used, totally safe - $5 each I am in Bellingham, I can drop off in the seattle or PDX area this weekend. Otherwise, you pay shipping. Prices are O.B.O. If you want me to take pictures of the actual items, I can do that too. PM or reply.

I meant the crack looming above John's head.

W. Face of Gunsight

Over the last week I ended up with a $100 credit for Allegiant Air, a small airline that flies to Las Vegas and Palm Springs from Bellingham and Tri-Cities. I don't think I'll be able to use it within the next year. If anyone is flying south to some warm climbing, let me know and you can use my $100 credit toward your ticket. I would like to end up with something out of the deal though, so if you are going, maybe we could work out something where you pay $75 for the $100 off coupon? -Blake

I just saw that half of North Carolina was being overrun by infra-red helicopters, army searchers, and rednecks on SUVs. All because a boyscout got homesick and wandered off into the woods. I'm not saying that it was a waste of time and resources to look for him, I just think it is ridiculous that all kinds of groups, clubs, and activities lead to large expensive rescue operations. Why are climbers suddenly everyone's scapegoat and legislative target? http://www.news10.net/display_story.aspx?storyid=25677