Blake

Amazing photos man. In one picture you call Mt. Logan a peak that is Mt. Goode. The Horseshoe climbers trail definitely goes up/right from the mine. The Beckey description is good, but that thing is rather overgrown.

I'll take them if they are still available.

Cool Jens, I didn't even know it was possible, but 12+ is not currently in my bag of tricks. Sounds like the normal finish is up/left. The small horn/flake near the top of the crack seemed loose, but it might be my imagination. The bolts are the same as always (2 skinny old ones and a FP in the bottom of the crack), I think a long sling is better than a 4' chunk of rattly annoying chain, and i'd imagine that clipping a runner would be easier than a dangling chain link. You can climb the 5.9 "wild traverse" and rap down the route to leave a runner in place if desired. The book said gear to 8" on Easter Overhang, which scared me off, but thanks for debunking that one. Also, it sounds like there's no "non-tehcnical" approach to the base of the sting, thanks for clearing that up as well. What's there seems rad, but it's not nearly as good as the lower town wall at Index in terms of volume of great routes. It sorta reminded me of Nightmare rock with wider cracks and a whole lot more hiking/approach issues.

All that talk and the bolts are still the same today. It's funny that the actual "Stevens Pass Motel" in Goldbar is located on Croft Avenue. Sweet route, if I were to lead it I'd definitely put a 4' runner on the bolt first (and maybe a screamer, those things are old and rusty). At the top of the crack I exited left to the last bit of "wild Traverse" but do others continue up some thin flakes edges (without any pro) straight up/right to the top? P.S. can someone explain exactly how to get to the base of "The Sting" without rapping down? And does one really need gear to 8" for Easter overhang... or would 4 and 5 camalots be ok.

Hey Kurt, there's a carpool of 3 of us already going from B-ham and Mt. Vernon tonight. We can take a couple more as well if needed. Thanks a lot though! see you over there tonight. I think we are going to Ozone tomorrow if you are interested.

I found 5 identical pairs of surplus green canvas NPS "slacks" from the garbage compactor in Stehekin that I use and they work really well for cragging routes. I think in general for cragging you don't need to worry about the breathability and wicking and whatnot of something you might take for more survival/performance traits on an Alpine route. Go with something cheap, and moderately durable, and not too stiff (not the stiffest carhart model)

First of all, you are looking to buy skis, not "ski's". You just want more than one "ski" so add an "s" and you have multiple skis. You'd only say "ski's" if there was some object owned by a ski, to which you were referring. Second, I have some 187cm Tua Mitos, Silvretta 555 bindings (fit mountaineering boots and ski boots) and scarpa lasers. This setup is rather basic, but I think it'd be perfect for what you want. P.S. sorry if the first comment sounds rude, just cranky today. Thank's! :-)

If it's dry i'll be there. Hopefully Ozone and Midnight

ummm 8+8+4 = 20 if you count reagan it's 28 never 24... Go Ron Paul!

IS the loud-mouthed guy in the back going to be there again next month too? If not, i make a motion to reinstate him.

Tom, is this part of the 100 highest list? If so, how was the route when you did it? The pictures are great, I really like the traversing ones below the ice bands.

John, I think you are barking up the wrong tree. If you read what I wrote you'll see I never complained about the NPS/Kelly Bush so I dont understand why you are suggesting I stop doing so. I'm not sure where you're going with the comment about selling pictures to "tabloids" either, but Dan and I received a whole $50 for the the photo that was published by Climbing (started by Alpinist finding us following a TR on here...)and this amount did not even cover one person's transportation costs to the trailhead. We didn't do anything to make money, and if we had, we'd have been monumental failures in that regard. Your advise to 'suck it up' is probably necessary at this point, but a bitter pill to swallow.

i think its free. either way it will be less costly than entertainment from last night.

David, there's absolutely no way one could assign a dollar amount to spending a day with you. If my face wasn't so red and puffy from crying over this mess I'd go back to modeling to earn a cheap buck. Thanks for letting me rant though. It's tough to see the guy driving drunk on a suspended license get off more easily than a renegade camper with no criminal history.

I've got a Thule bike rack that mounts on the back bumper thingy of a car. It will work if you have a "step" style bumper. It holds two bikes, is basically brand new, and retails for $200. I'm selling this one for $100 OBO. I'm in bellingham but i can deliver to Seattle and points between.

Well, he ran my name through the WA drivers license database via radio at the time of the incident, so if I had given a fake name, he'd have found out. If I mysteriously stop posting, mount a search party. Use shovels as paddles if they take me to cuba.

Earlier this summer i was cited for not having a permit after spending a couple nights out in the North Cascades. I mentioned to the ranger where we had come from, and because it was quite a ways away, he assumed (correctly) we had not done our trip in one day, so he fined us $75 for having not had a permit for prior nights. This evening I went to contest the fine in Bellingham Court. Eventually they called my name, and I pleaded "guilty". The NPS attorney present recomended a fine of $60 and told the judge it was a serious offence because the permits are what Search and rescue people use in the case of an overdue party. I explained that we had left careful instructions, itinerary, route plans, etc with a trusted climber/friend in town who was going to meet up with us at the end of the trip. I also said that this plan was more detailed than merely the listing of what backcountry zones we would be in, which is all that a permit would have included. I said that my partner is a volunteer Search and Rescue guy and we weren't wandering off irresponsibly. I mentioned that I spoke with Kelly Bush who is in law enforcement in the National Park, and I understand that they use permits to remote backcountry areas for scientific studies, so I told the judge I would always be getting one, even if I am in an area with no people. The judge then decided to RAISE the fine, from the recommended $60 to $250! I couldn't believe it. At that point I was so confused and amazed and angry I was not thinking straight so I didn't even catch how long I have to pay it off. Anyways... does anyone have any kind of legal knowledge or advice regarding a possible appeal or something of that nature? I can't believe they are going to charge two 20 year old students $250 for having spent nights in the park without a permit... that just blows me away and doesn't seem just at all. Anyways, I'm guessing I am totally screwed here, but i honestly cannot believe this just happen and I suppose I am looking to rant a little. Thanks for any useful suggestions, if they exist.

glad this TR got bumped! That looks like no picnic....

see this http://www.stehekinlanding.com/index.php?page_id=241

Rob, if you want to lead "some of the gendarme pitches" then you'd lead the whole thing. The entire gendarme is only ~55m, so one or two pitches. Good job. I think index is generally well protected, perfect rock, with clean fall potential. A good place to try climbs at your limit in my opinion.

Looking to climb at Index monday afternoon, drive over the pass and hit up leavenworth Tuesday (Ozone/Pearly Gates). Send a PM or email if you are interested in connecting for some casual cragging.

Since Cathedral SE Buttress is one of the best routes I've done, and the headwall is better than the Gendarme on the NR of Stuart, here's some precise beta overload. I felt that the Beckey/Kearney guides were extremely vague at best. p1- Start on the right edge of a block/pinnacle 150' up the Monk/Cathedral gulley. LFC and wide crack for ~50m to a huge ledge (5.8+) p2 - Up the obvious chimney beneath solid chockstones for ~15m, then step right into a corner. Climb up the steep corner crack (easier than it looks) or belay at the chimney exit to avoid rope drag. (5.8) p3 - Up the same corner crack feature, pass a small ledge or two. The last section of this features a short wide crack off a ledge. Stay to the right as you near the top. (5.8) This next section might have a couple options, and is the most confusing of the route p4 - From a nice cushy ledge that wraps around the buttress, go up a short obvious crack angling to the left, then stem up twin cracks near a corner, finally move left to the base of a quartz dike crack with huge crystals, and climb this to the last ledge. (5.8) p5 - Walk to the FAR LEFT of the sandy ledge, and layback straight up, staying to the left when possible. Climbing becomes steppy, until a chimney appears on the right, which protects well with solid small gear inside. Belay atop chimney. (5.9) p6 - Climb up and left on mid-5th terrain towards the looming headwall. 60m (5.7) p7 - Continue up slightly steeper terrain and splitter cracks to the base of the headwall. 30m (5.8) p8 - Follow finger/hand cracks straight up to a small stance at the base of the OW. The deadly-looking block is fairly solid. 30m 5.9 p9 - Punish yourself on the 1970s 5.9+ OW (#4/#5 camalot), or else take the .10a finger splitter just to the right. 25m (5.10) p10 - 5.9 splitter hand crack for ~8m, then walk left on a ledge for a few feet, and up a final 5.9 splitter hand crack. ~30m (5.9) (we did it in 11 pitches, with a belay atop the chimney due to rope drag.) Descent is a bit of solid scrambling, then a walk off to Cathedral Pass.

just make sure he doesn't use chalk John.

pax, i think you could do fine on heaven's gate, maybe the roof on the last pitch would be a show stopper, but nothing before that, so don't worry too much. Such a cool route... -Blake

I will if anyone is interested or getting bored, but it'd all be local stuff around the NW.