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Blake

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Everything posted by Blake

  1. Its really three letters, and i already had Hic penciled in. thanks for the validation though. Actually, the wHig party are the liberals, and the tories are the conservatives. Even Wikipedia's list of prominent british conservatives didn't show any W_ _ people.
  2. Thanks Gary!
  3. I am doing a crossword contest and need a little help. I'll post the Clues and spaces. Thanks anyone for help. Early Analog Synthesizer M_ _ _ (Mono?)
  4. Cat_Bird_Seat must have been the bravest man of the night for wearing that hat.
  5. I was there with a bunch of B-hammers as well. Did Roger's corner and BOC after it rained, but enjoyed a thorough thrashing on Lamplighter > Heaven's Gate before that. Wish I had run in to you guys. I didn't realize how overhung Roger's and Breakfast of Champions is until rapping back down, then it made sense why it was still bone-dry.
  6. maybe golite coal or golite "sun fire" .. some name like that. check northern mountain supply, i got mine for $30.
  7. well, just in case anyone checks, the spots got filled.
  8. If you want more friction for a slower/more controlled rappel, I have always found that just adding another carbiner (even a nonlocker) alongside my HMS locking rappel/belay biner does the trick. It cause the rope to make a sharper bend, and it wont feed as well.
  9. I saw one of those ring tailed snaffle things down there too. kinda like a raccoon cat.
  10. I found some stuff with the initial S.L.B. on it, and I'm wondering who it might belong to. It wasn't on the Gith Pillar... and that joke ceased being funny a while ago. Serious input is appreciated. Cheers!
  11. Very good point, I bet that those first anchors on Roger's Corner were used about 1/10 as much the JG anchors were. I wonder why those weren't chopped?
  12. The only gym I have ever been to is the on-campus one at WWU, but is it unusual to climbing harder routes outside than inside? I onsight trad routes that are rated harder than gym climbs I can't even do on TR after hanging a bunch. The discrepancy is probably 3-4 letter grades. I have this same pattern with face climbs on real rock vs plastic. Is this totally backwards from most people?
  13. Isn't that what they call Bungie Jumping? No, they call it the Wayne Wallace specialty.
  14. If yanking out silly non-pitch-ending anchors is the goal, wouldn't Sagitarius prove a better candidate than JG? Those anchors on JG were at a standing ledge, just below where the climbing got way harder. Most index climbers can do .10a, but not the .11+ of the above part. However, some of those midpoint anchors on Sagitarius seem much less usefull.
  15. Blake

    Wheres Iain?

    that's a fun climb!
  16. It's been an average to high snow year. I would expect post-holing and soft snow in the next few weeks. People who have been out lately have noted lots of fresh snow falling as well (although above the approach elevation for Shuksan.) Your bus trip website is awesome, welcome to cc.com!
  17. Joseph, make yourself jam the cracks at beacon like Dodd's. Or else, take a road trip to Squamish or Index or somewhere else where you absolutely must jam. Basically if you want to learn to jam, quit laybacking routes that are classic straight-in jamming climbs. Sure it will feel tougher at first, but that's why it is part of learning.
  18. Blake

    fledgling trad rack

    How would any nut ever work in a flared crack? You still need some constriction.
  19. Please move to events forum: On thursday 4/26 at 8pm, Micah Dash is showing pictures and telling stories about climbing all around the world, from Yosemite to Pakistan. The presentation is free. Bellingham WWU Campus Fraser 4 Northeast corner of Red Square See everyone there!
  20. it's up the Squire Creek Trail toward three fingers.
  21. thanks for voting for my photos if you did. They are a product of the shotgun style of photography, take enough pics and some will be good. Evidentally I win some prizes now?
  22. i'm going to be at mt erie. Powerline wall-orange wall area. call 425 442 6321 if you are coming up.
  23. I agree Jens, it looks like the water must have flowed uphill crested the pass, and came over this side. sometimes perspectives can be tricky though...
  24. I'd say that on the final two pitches, keep your eye out for door-knob shaped chickenheads you can hitch, and protect with them. It'll help you save your cams for later on, plus it's just a fun thing to do, and one of the route's more unique elements.
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