OlympicMtnBoy

I think I'm more like 60-70% work for me that I've bought, the others were good deals that I thought could work but didn't. If they really don't work I don't buy em and thus don't count them in the percentage, tried on a few that just didn't feel right. At least one pair required some extra playing around with insoles and liner to get just right but then worked fine. Also not counting boots I exchanged for a different size to get them right (mostly approach shoes).

Sraight from my ass as well, but I heard that Nov/Dec were actually supposed to be moderate but Jan-Mar colder/wetter as the La Nina because the more dominant pattern. High temps are dropping 15 degrees tonight. :-)

Great heavy backpacking/snow slogging boot! My old ones took me to the top of Mt. Elbrus in Russia as well as Mt. Olympus here and many other scrambly peaks.

Tazz, nice TR that I hadn't seen, thanks for sharing. Here is our TR from last year for those interested: http://cascadeclimbers.com/trip-reports/alpine/the-mole-north-face-6-5-2010-4939/ I would like to get back up there to do the Duolith and other stuff some time as well, lots of nice 2-3 pitch lines up there, but not much longer. Camping on the Mesa did look nice although it is technically inside the permit zone (not that it's likely they'll be checking on you there, but you never know). With less snow than we had I think camping at the last spot on the way up to the Mole would be nice too. Our ledge camp sucked ass and was full of ticks but we were too lazy to dig a flat spot in the crappy snow.

There is a RAB eVent one on STP too: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/4264,3323N_Rab-eVent-Alpine-Bivisack-Waterproof.html

All your permit question answers can be found here: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/passes/enchantments/ It sounds like they are moving to a privatized online reservation system this year. You'll still either need to block out specific dates for your reservation request or risk the daily lottery. The good news for you is that if you stay below the Edwards Plateau in Hook or Rat Creeks you are just outside of the permit area by my interpretation of the map. You should just be able to get a normal backcountry permit any ol time. When I did the Mole last year we followed the trail to Yellowjacket Tower and then went up Hook Creek and I didn't think it was too bad as far as things go. I think we used the approach described in the newest guidebook. It sucked the most coming down in the rain the next day when walking on the logs was out of the question. I've heard Rat Creek is much worse. Be prepared for several hours to get up there any way you go.

Maybe ask over at wildsnow.com they carry binding/ski repair kits on long tours and might have some suggestions. I usually ski badly enough that I probably won't be that much slower booting it out anyways. ;-)

I'm with Alex, I only have one and it stays on the back of my harness with my Grivel v-threader thingy in it. It goes in a toprope anchor or for v-threading but that'd about it. If the ice is thick enough I'd rather have a 22 for a v-thread although they can be plenty safe when made with shorter screws in the the right conditions too.

My plans to have a nice few days in a ski hut with my girlfriend got blown up by the NE snowstorm and she's stranded till Friday. Anyone up for some ice near Snoqualmie (or scouting to see if there is any) or some easy/moderate backcountry skiing? I'm pretty flexible on goals/activities, have plenty of ice gear (lead WI4, follow harder), and usual ski/avy gear (I'm still a very intermediate skier but I go uphill just fine). I can drive if the roads are decent (Toyota Camry) and am in Fremont. I'll check my PM's here tonight.

Assuming your bivy sack is roughly a cylinder the back of my napkin says increasing the volume by 10% (increasing the radius) will only add about 5% to your circumference, so if you keep the fabric the same it should only weigh about 5% more. (had to stretch my brain there) Of course your sack isn't quite cut like that and you may actually need a bit more than 10%, but I do know other bivy sacks have different cuts. Some of the smaller makers (Oware, etc) would probably do a custom job for a really puffy sleeping bag size too. I agree though, my OR gore-tex sack also compresses the foot area a tiny bit with my biggest bag.

I thought that was 12+ but maybe I'm thinking of something else, I certainly have no hope of venturing up the steep bit there. Does anyone know what the access there is like now with the dam being removed? Did a hike get put in from the other side?

Nice, is this your earlier unfinished line or another one?

PM sent.

There aren't any requirement to have things "certified" here, only in the EU. Anyone who gets CE/UIAA certified here does it for other reasons. There are lots of folks who climb hard stuff in eastern Europe and Russia and trust their lives to that gear, I don't think most of it is super unsafe (check the BD QC lab test on some). My first four cams were like that, bought while I was living in Russia for $12 each. That being said though, other options are far more polished in design and manufacture, easier to use, and probably more quality control. Mine are on the last chance aid/indian creek 5th set rack now.

What's the tag line made of? Just normal accessory cord?

. . . and skiing in crap variable snow with soft climbing boots and a heavy pack. I can't do it worth shit on my 99 cm ski boards (don't call em blades, that's ghey), my 130 cm setup is slightly more forgiving length wise but also a bit harder to turn. They really excel in corn snow in the spring though! I'm not a good enough skier to do anything other than approach in variable/crusty snow and if it's likely to be too crappy I still take the snowshoes because they are easier for me on the downhill. Worth seeing how you do though, for real skiing I'm loving my Dynafit setup.

First check out the excellent cc.com articles on the subject: http://cascadeclimbers.com/ski-board/ski-intro You also might find some more bc skiing info at wildsnow.com. Cheers and good luck, don't forget an avalanche class and a beacon out there!

Thanks for sharing, although 3 still pictures and a bit less spray would have been just fine, I didn't make it through the whole video. Glad you had fun on a crappy day though! P.S. If you are going to start a new persona, might want to make a few more changes to your "style" as well, might get a better response.

They are in the print version (unless they missed something). I think the online version is not intended to be exhaustive or to replace the print version, they still want to sell the print version. The online version is supposed to be a place to add additional pictures, corrections, route updates, etc. I doubt anyone excluded your routes for any other reason then there isn't much more information available than is already in the book and those routes don't get done often (ever? second ascent?). I'm sure they would add them in if you wanted to contribute more info or pictures or get someone to head up there and do a trip report! I've always been interested in those routes myself, but haven't had a partner too excited about 5.9+ climbing in the generally poor rock with crappy pro (I know there are exceptions of course).

I've had good luck with my Peztl Adjama but I never really use the adjustable leg loops either so might replace it with a Sama. I've used it for cragging, ice, alpine, and the gym. It's not quite cushy enough for aid and I use an CAMP XLH 95 ultralight for slogs and ski stuff. I hung out in the Arcteryx ones a couple of times and found them not to be as comfy as my Petzl, might just be personal taste, would trade comfort for packability if the weight is pretty close. Make sure you go somewhere to try a harness on and see how it feel for you to hang in. I have heard good things about the CAMP CR3 too.

Grr, wish I was down there! Sounds like fun.

Sweet, sounds like fun. I'm jealous as I only got 5 days down there this year!

I don't think those prices actually include the wing, just the trike, you'll easily get past 10K. Also they are in Euros. Still cool, I'll get one when I win the lotto!

I think you are looking for non-expanded neoprene as opposed to the stuff they use in wetsuits that is expanded with tiny bubbles in it to make it insulate more. Seattle fabrics sells the wetsuit stuff but they make have a suggestion. If that fails you may try making some lacing out of vinyl coated nylon (like they use for haulbags and for the boot strap on many gaiters). I don't know how wide it would need to be for what you need or if you could fit it through the existing holes though. Or replace the whole deck with the stuff and rivet it. Or some other synthetic cord? Spectra?

I got one to replace an older BD Ion which I lost. It was way brighter than the ion, although haven't seen a side-by-side comparison with the newer Ion, probably still brighter. I've never had any durability issues although it wouldn't be my first choice for midnight bushwhacking of course. I wish I could find it now, seems to have wandered away . . .