curtveld

I agree with fender4 that you should be able to find a guide willing to go at a relatively leisurely pace, but I suggest you choose carefully. I would call a few guides BEFORE you hire one and explain what kind of trip you want. If it seems like they are really interested in understanding, they might worth considering. If they seem like they want you to do the trip on their normal timetable, that would be a red flag. But you might want to make sure your group is clear whether your top priority is going your own pace or summitting, since those two things might not lead to the same decisions along the way. Hope you get the trip you want.

Dunno - is the climber making the most repetitive posts the one having the most fun? So..…anybody know anything about the Scarpa Thunders?

Anybody try the Scarpa Thunder? Looks like a nice all-rounder and cheap too - $90.

The 3OC Rock trail is actually the Squire Creek Pass trail reached from the back side, if you ever went up there. Should be plenty more nice days this fall to go check it out. And, as this climber knows, Dreamer is a great route to lead on double ropes, especially the meandering pitches #6 & 7. Allows full length raps and no extra rope hauling for the second. And it makes you feel SO european!

You guys make this thing sound downright reasonable! Well done, Darin and Marcus.

Sporty indeed! I turned back on this last June when it was dripping wet in addition to the sparse pro. Kind of unfortunate to have such a nice moderate route "protected" by an R-rated first pitch. Perhaps a fixed pin or bolt (gasp!) or two would be a good addition there. Yes, yes, with the FA party’s approval, of course.

Actually red Fred mentions both, but kind of hard to tell just how nasty. Is the West Ridge any better, rock wise?

Anybody been on this route? I stood at the base of it a couple of years ago and it looked steep and interesting.

That’s a damn long hike in and out of there to not get on the climb! Hope the injured climber is on the mend and you can get back after it.

Taking the Early-Marble-Dorado circuit to the next level!

Bummer about the loss of the Skoog/Brill Way to put up a new classic to motivate us procrastinators

If my dog was half as ugly as you, I’d shave his rear and teach him to walk backward.

Personally I don’t have a big problem, unless people are using them while climbing or belaying. That could be dangerous.

I'm all set - thanks for the replies!

Looking for a long day out with some quality 5.9/5.10. Ideas: Dragontail – N. Face or Backbone Colchuck – NE Butt E.F. Lexington Darrington – Dark Rhythm, Dreamer Yak Check Fri, Sat or Sun (11-13th) are all options. PM me and we’ll go from there.

If you want to do a full day Friday (Dreamer or a 5.10?), I'll meet you for the day. PM if interested.

Check your PMs

Until they’re really hooked on outdoor climbing (like 5.10 slabs), I’m not sure they need rock shoes. I find things for my kids that are doable in tennies and focus on fun more than difficulty. The adjustable body harnesses most places carry are a good pickup though.

Dang, your #4, 5, 6 & 7 look a lot like my list for NEXT weekend, when I‘m available (and partner-less). Good luck, and give a shout if your schedule opens up.

Beta for maybe? Descending the N ridge and glacier would be just fine and considerably easier than the E Ridge. If someone was keen on a traverse, I’d probably tell them to do our trip backwards, since I think the E. ridge would be more enjoyable going up. Though I haven’t done it, the standard South route just doesn’t sound like much fun either direction.

Great TR and trip Andy! Being the schmuck that forgot the extra camera battery, I can point out two outstanding Scurlock photos (thanks, John!) that show our route. We ascended the center of the Nohokomeen Glacier just right of the large rock and accessed the North ridge left of the summit tower. We found much more snow cover than shown here. The East Ridge is seen head-on, with the crest closer to the East glacier on the left. The high snow traverse on the ascent is directly below and right of the summit. All in all, Jack has some pretty cool features that don't get much traffic.

There is also a nice variation that takes the Y-shaped crack system on the slab east of the S ridge. That would get you onto the E. ridge with some extra 5.8-ish climbing.

If you camp in areas where others don’t, you won’t have problems. Dead balloons are everywhere.

I have rapped one of the SW gullies and it was nasty – loose rock and sketchy anchors. Rapping the route with a single rope and some 3rd class was much better and not slower. Weekendz details ring true.

MCCall basin is pretty cool too, and you are probably more likely to have it to yourselves. There is one semi-steep hill getting up to the PCT, but it's not a big deal.