curtveld

That Solar Slab gully is a REALLY fun descent in the dark! Later found that the leftward slab traverse from the top of Orpheus is much more efficient. At RR, early starts and headlamps are never a bad idea!

The Chrysalis and Black Orpheus are among my all-time favorites, as are Dream of Wild Turkeys and Frogland, both in Black Velvet canyon. If there are lineups for those routes, Sour Mash is a nice longer climb nearby that doesn't get much traffic. What a great place!

If you're talking about the Onion Creek area north of Colville, I might be able to point you toward some FA details. A buddy of mine, Marc McCalmon was active during the mid-80s exploring and climbing several obvious crack lines. I could help you track him down, if you're interested.

One more thing – we figure our Dorado circuit is a grade IV, since it links two grade I climbs and a II (Nelson calls Dorado a III!). And it took us all day to do.

Definitely, Darin. I'll email you and we can make a plan.

Climb: Eldo-Early-Marble-Dorado Circuit- Date of Climb: 9/23/2005 Trip Report: A confusing name for a confusing trip: The highest summit was the easiest; we didn’t set foot on the route we had crossed three glaciers for; and the real crux was barely 5th class. But what a place to close out the summer season! Not much to say about the standard Eldorado approach with 4-day packs, except it really makes you appreciate the views from camp. Aint that NW arête of Forbidden a beauty! After a slow wake up, the ramble up the East ridge went smoothly and we were soon traversing the big glaciers toward Dorado Col, where we found a descent (though dry) bivy spot. Dorado (left), Marble (center) & Praying Mantis (right) from the east We had come for the classic SW face of Early Morning Spire, but were having trouble believing we could move quickly enough, given the chilly temps, short daylight and “party-of-three” factor (yeah, we’re old farts). That’s when the “Dorado tri-fecta” concept was born. From camp we dropped down onto the Marble Glacier, then back up under Dorado’s SW face toward the col behind Early Morning Spire. The nasty melted-out gully at the top looked like a potential stopper, but went via a slab traverse (Andy) and a short dirty wall (by class 3 specialist Peter) - both quite unprotectable. After summiting EMS via the back route (good rock finally), we climbed snow and a jungle gym of garage-door blocks (class 4) up toward Marble Needle. From the ridge, Marble’s summit was attained easily, and a rappel and short glacier traverse got us to the NW col of Dorado. An icy moat blocked the standard access to the rock, so we traversed ramps around right, then back left onto the impeccable NW ridge. Andy quickly led through the huge blocks and amazing knife-edge sections to the summit – easily the nicest climbing of the trip. A rappel and some down climbing got us back to the base, with just enough twilight to weave down through the crevasses to camp. Suddenly, hauling that little flask of Jim Beam and those tuna steak packets seemed well worth the effort. And damn, I guess the SW face will still be there next year. And my memories of crossing endless talus slopes will have faded. Thanks to compadres Andy and Peter for their common sense, good cooking, and fine photos! Gear Notes: Standard glacier and rock gear Approach Notes: Crossed Cascade River on logs about 100' downstream of parking.

Good point. Though an amazing axe-man, many would say Tufnel’s greater talent was as a lyricist. Indeed, some critics consider his work (particularly the Smell the Glove album) on par with the likes of Byron or Shelley!

John Scofield, Jeff Beck & Frank Zappa. Try to imagine that jam session!

I recall that upper part just requires a decent runout, but I thought that a couple of wide 5.8 layback moves and some easier stemming would get you up. It's been awhile, I admit, but some pitches just stay burned in your mind.

Old schoolers told me: Lay back or plastic sack! Crawling into the thing and placing big cams that you will have to climb around would probably work, but lots more effort.

N face of Shuksan can be very nice this time of year - short drive, too.

As mentioned, there is no shortage of good route choices this time of year. A couple of factors to be aware of: 1. Glaciers are likely to be broken up (Baker!) and involve tricky moats. 2. Alpine rock climbing is funnest when you can feel your fingers – climbs higher than 5,000’ (WA Pass) better damn well be in the sun (would avoid BRRR-gundy N. face), 3. The huckleberries are outstanding this year. That said, a fun alpine rock route would be the W. Buttress of South Early Winters Spire (~III 5.8). Good luck.

Couple of quick questions for ya: Any crevasse or moat problems getting around Eldo to the Needle? Also, sounds like you bivyed at the base of the Eldo E. ridge. Any other attractive campsites between there and the route? Thanks for the great photos and info.

Was just up there last week (18/19) and Highclimb's info is still pretty dead on. No snow at the nice bivy and only a couple of useless scraps a bit higher up. We packed about a gallon a piece, which was about right for our 1.5 day ascent. Best to fill up on the ultra-abundant berries on the approach too!

Check for a PM, Jason

What'd you end up doing Matt? (those of us with limited climbing time - AKA "parents" - fill the gaps by finding what others are doing)

If you're interested in mountaineering and have decent technical skills already, you should definitly grab "Alpine Select" by McLane - very informative guide with inspiring photos. If you like mountains, you're going to love it out here, especially if you arrive before November

Ah, the joys of cross-posting. A last tid-bit: You will NOT bake on 3OC rock - the climbs mentioned face north!

Looks like you're getting some solid advice, but I'll offer my $.02: If you want a nice backcountry climbing experience, I'd go with Silent Running (next to Total Soul, but easier). You've got the 5.10 finish if time and energy allow. If you prefer scenic driving (and faster bail options), the Fault/Catapault/Canary link-up at Castle would be a good plan. Wear your helmets for this one, though. Enjoy.

As I recall, Thielson is one of the coolest and most solid scrambling routes in the Oregon Cascades, once you get up the obligatory scree trail. But holy crap, either the summit pinnacle has changed a bit or there's some serious grade inflation going on down there. I recall the standard route (around on the upper E. side) being class 3 - airy, yes, but reasonable. I stand by that rating because a rather unatheletic friend said she had scrambled it unroped. Hmmm...that's considered fifth class nowadays?! Maybe that was a call made by attorneys for the publishing house of the guide book.

New candidates for the choss pile: 1. N. Early Winter Spire – E Butt. That third lead is one of my all-time favorite places I didn’t fall: ~100 foot runout up a flaky slab above a belay anchored by a sketchy friend and a 1” thick pine already half uprooted. This route does have a nice crack up high - if you’re good with a trowel. 2. Boxtop (?) in ID Sawtooths. Guide offered “classic crack climbing”, but after tiptoeing up 500’ of delicately stacked blocks, the 30’ of 5.4 chimney wasn’t much of a reward. 3. Buckner –SE face. The 3,500’ talus slog was a breath of fresh air after the vertical jungle gym and bog climb getting out of Horseshoe Basin. 4. Bonanza Peak - NE Ridge. Attractive line, but the block-infested ledges were far preferable to the teetering ridge crest. Much relief escaping to the notorious standard route. 5. Blueberry Hill – N “Ridge”. Rapped down this vertical cedar forest before the multi-bolt rap anchors went in. And the old guide book listed this thing as a climb. For those dumping on the Triumph and Baker ridge climbs – I’d like to spend more time on routes that are a lot BETTER than these!

As someone described fellow climbing visionary Jim Bridwell: "face of a 65-year old, body of a 25-year old, mentality of a 15-year old", or something like that. But in Fred's case it would have to be a 15-year old with an encyclopedic knowledge of the North Cascades and the determination to write it all down for others to enjoy!

I think the Silver Star Creek approach is quite a bit more direct way to CB than via Burgundy col. But you're probably not as likely to meet any mtn goats coming up that way, so it's really a matter of taste. Check your PMs Squid.

Looks like you've got most of the essential info already, but just did the route last Sunday and have a couple of updates: 1. The lower part of the route had some serious rockfall over the winter - couple of trees uprooted and stuff like that. No reason to stay away, but there is a bit more loose crap on ledges in places. Watch out. 2. We found a good way to the bypass the crumbly chimney/water groove just below the "bunny ears". Traverse left under the small roof and follow ramp left and up. Protects decently with medium cams. 3. Descending the route via single rope raps went great - good anchors and smoothe pulls. 4. No critter problems with gear left at the base (not that you might not!) Enjoy!

Great TR and shots. Brings to mind a similar Cheval/Snowking loop we did a couple of years back, but our route stayed mostly in the Illabot basin. I figured your Cheval approach was different from ours since there was no mention of the horrendous brush hole or the patch of ultra-steep forest where I should have had my axe out in case I started sliding. Sounds like the Jug Lake start is a lot better than ours (near the Illabot bridge). We also camped below the icy little lake south of Snowking – and had a few nips of sour mash on a cube-like boulder. Your dawn photo of it with Chaval is a beauty. Did you see the enormous eroding gorge below the lake? I also remember some slippery slabs getting up to Snowking from the lake. Anyone imaginative enough to make a “hefty kilt” is probably a better route-finder than us, so you might have missed it. Pretty amazing area though – glad to hear more about it.