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curtveld

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Everything posted by curtveld

  1. Baker-Snoqualmie web site has lots of post-storm updates - http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/trail_conditions.shtml
  2. Trezlar
  3. How bout those slabs on the SOUTH side of Ruth Creek, probably about mile or two toward Hannegan Pass?
  4. clever, but how did she manage to place gear?
  5. OR crack – Fat Crack @ Skinner’s Butte OR bolts – Moons of Pluto WA crack – NW Face finish on Burgundy Spire WA bolts – Racer X, Urban Bypass on Dreamer BC crack – Sunblessed BC bolts – Treasure in the Lichen @ Skaha
  6. Sounds good Al - PM sent. Winter options are a bit different here than Vegas, but there's plenty to do if you're flexible.
  7. Chains were solid last month – thanks Mtnfreak! I suspect this is because most are working from the Nelson-Potterfield Select book that came out before the bolted pitches up top were either there or much known of. Very worthwhile though, I agree. Rapping from the ridge crest anchor, we had a heck of a time getting far enough (skiers) left to reach Safe Sex. How is that done, Matt?
  8. I hear the Chaelan lakeshore trail can be nice that time of year. Check out the yellow Manning-Spring 100 Hikes book.
  9. Have to bail for tomorrow. Sorry.
  10. E. Face Lexington maybe if not too cold? I'll call this evening, Hal.
  11. If you're still interested in tomorrow, send me a pm, and we'll go from there. Curt
  12. Dogtown and the Z-boys - skateboarding The War Room - '92 Clinton campaign
  13. Good catch. Photo #3 = Three Fingers from the north? Is the NE Butt the one behind the tree or in the center? Looks pretty cool.
  14. Matier NW face is a good call. The other access is via Keith's hut in Cerise Creek. Also some glacier travel required, but no slide alder. You could probably do it in a long day with some headlamp hiking.
  15. curtveld

    JLS

    It’s not Sea-gull, it’s Sea-gal
  16. Something told me you might know the answer to that one, Dru How bout all those clean slabs you walk by on the approach?
  17. There was one about 6-7 feet up the thing. Good for a quick pull, but too low to sling.
  18. curtveld

    Good Reads?

    The Glass Castle by Jeannette Walls - guaranteed to help you keep your injuries in perspective. And lots more ideas here
  19. Did it once. So far it's the only WA Pass route I couldn't recommend to anyone, for the reasons Forrest mentions. Some nice cracks up high, but lots of scary junk to get there.
  20. Ah yes, if I’d known then what I know now… We were going on McLane’s time estimate of 10-14 hours from camp, which turns out to be quite conservative for experienced climbers. Martin and I had not climbed together before so there was some uncertainty about how fast we’d move. But I have no regrets – the sunset from camp was gorgeous. And we had plenty of daylight for the border and drive home.
  21. Climb: Nesawkwatch Spires and Mt Rexford-Ensawkwatch Enchainment Date of Climb: 8/13/2006 Trip Report: Yup, this TR is a little slow out of the chute, but figured MCash’s fine photos will open a few eyes to some nice alpine granite outside the Stuart Range and Washington Pass areas. The Enchainment is a nice longish outing on clean granite that gives great views of Slesse’s eastern walls, the Cheam Range and many border area peaks. Though recent enchainers have done this route car-to-car, we went for a more relaxed overnight plan. The approach is a serious quad-burner in both directions, so maybe the fast light plan is the way to go. Won’t load you down with much beta because McLane’s Alpine Select gives you all the info you need. Camp below the N. Nesakwatch Spire. If we hadn’t brought the tent, the bugs would have been much worse. South Illusion Spire – anybody know if the wall on the left has been climbed? Fun climbing on clean blocks. From the North Spire, the route follows the ridge crest (right edge of sunlight) to the South Spire and Rexford behind. The South Spire has the most sustained class 5 climbing of the route. A short 5.7 off-width is required to reach the South Spire’s summit. Bring a 6” cam or be ready to chicken wing or power layback it. Getting down requires a bit of ingenuity, too. A bit more exposed mid-fifth reaches Rexford’s summit pinnacle. Martin and the mighty “fang” of the Chilliwack. The descent is fairly easy - arrived back in camp after about 8 hours. And yes, Martin did cruise his share of the leads! Gear Notes: A 60 m half rope worked well, as advertised
  22. Isn’t that 10b Urban Bypass pitch amazing? Those little chickenheads just keep getting skinnier and slopier before disappearing entirely right near the top. And hardly a decent stance in the whole pitch. Here's to the original crazed fool with the drill
  23. Offer to bring the lunch if your partner will drive? Drederek is right - it’s pretty easy. Follow the main road to the 8-mile trailhead and keep driving as far as your partner is willing. The approach is well beaten down but still a bit of work. Nice fall colors up there right now.
  24. To quote Lynn Hill: “It goes, boys!”. My little sedan made the bypass and to within about a quarter mile of the end, though it was pretty rough going. Get it now, before another winter takes it’s toll.
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