curtveld

Check your PMs

Until they’re really hooked on outdoor climbing (like 5.10 slabs), I’m not sure they need rock shoes. I find things for my kids that are doable in tennies and focus on fun more than difficulty. The adjustable body harnesses most places carry are a good pickup though.

Dang, your #4, 5, 6 & 7 look a lot like my list for NEXT weekend, when I‘m available (and partner-less). Good luck, and give a shout if your schedule opens up.

Beta for maybe? Descending the N ridge and glacier would be just fine and considerably easier than the E Ridge. If someone was keen on a traverse, I’d probably tell them to do our trip backwards, since I think the E. ridge would be more enjoyable going up. Though I haven’t done it, the standard South route just doesn’t sound like much fun either direction.

Great TR and trip Andy! Being the schmuck that forgot the extra camera battery, I can point out two outstanding Scurlock photos (thanks, John!) that show our route. We ascended the center of the Nohokomeen Glacier just right of the large rock and accessed the North ridge left of the summit tower. We found much more snow cover than shown here. The East Ridge is seen head-on, with the crest closer to the East glacier on the left. The high snow traverse on the ascent is directly below and right of the summit. All in all, Jack has some pretty cool features that don't get much traffic.

There is also a nice variation that takes the Y-shaped crack system on the slab east of the S ridge. That would get you onto the E. ridge with some extra 5.8-ish climbing.

If you camp in areas where others don’t, you won’t have problems. Dead balloons are everywhere.

I have rapped one of the SW gullies and it was nasty – loose rock and sketchy anchors. Rapping the route with a single rope and some 3rd class was much better and not slower. Weekendz details ring true.

MCCall basin is pretty cool too, and you are probably more likely to have it to yourselves. There is one semi-steep hill getting up to the PCT, but it's not a big deal.

Isn't that first hand crack right off the ground just the sweetest start?!

For anyone that’s still interested, here’s a KT update from 6-25: Plenty of snow still on the approach - no crampons needed but an axe was essential. From Kangaroo Pass toward the hairpin offered an outstanding glissading/boot skiing run. We were shooting for the NW Face, but were stopped by a drippy first pitch. Pro was minimal too, but maybe I was just off route? Another party made it up the N Face, so it appears to be fine.

That’d be fun, but I’ve got a partner lined up for some alpine rock. My best suggestion is to head for a cragging area where you can find a group to link up with – probably not Darrington, but maybe Index or Squamish? Hope you get some climbing in.

Hey, if the Green Giant is calling your name, go get it. But you might want to bring some oven mitts for the Blue Crack!

CBS has a point. 3 o clock would be nicer - especially the N slab. Total Soul and Silent Running are classics and there are other good options if you find line-ups.

Anybody been up the Nesakwatch road this spring? Did the washouts get patched up or get worse or...?

Very cool. Especially the yellow shrub with red dirt wash behind (#3).

Apparently not a trade route, based on the silence. We got a look at it on Thursday (6-15), but did the NE gully. Nothing much to report that isn’t covered in the TRs from May 04 and 05. Was melted out in a couple spots, but a good day’s adventure.

Appreciate it, Don

OK, OK - sorry for jacking your thread, Ty Probably should have posted in the WEATHER WHINERS fourm anyway.

I was looking forward to an slightly less hypotethical answer to tlinn's question also. Anybody here actually know how long it takes for this climb to dry out, if it were to ever (hypothetically speaking) stop raining?

Anybody done this route? Curious about the A1 pitch that “has been done free” - how hard? Thanks for any info.

I was, actually. But with the council of Fred, I’ve seen the error of my ways.

When dry, that’s one of the cleanest gullies in the Cascades. Bummer you had to do it in such lousy conditions.

Cool! You must be OK with Vietnam war head trips, which is what most of OBrien’s work revolves around.

Sweetheart of Song Tra Bong is the one that stuck with me