curtveld

Isn't that first hand crack right off the ground just the sweetest start?!

For anyone that’s still interested, here’s a KT update from 6-25: Plenty of snow still on the approach - no crampons needed but an axe was essential. From Kangaroo Pass toward the hairpin offered an outstanding glissading/boot skiing run. We were shooting for the NW Face, but were stopped by a drippy first pitch. Pro was minimal too, but maybe I was just off route? Another party made it up the N Face, so it appears to be fine.

That’d be fun, but I’ve got a partner lined up for some alpine rock. My best suggestion is to head for a cragging area where you can find a group to link up with – probably not Darrington, but maybe Index or Squamish? Hope you get some climbing in.

Hey, if the Green Giant is calling your name, go get it. But you might want to bring some oven mitts for the Blue Crack!

CBS has a point. 3 o clock would be nicer - especially the N slab. Total Soul and Silent Running are classics and there are other good options if you find line-ups.

Anybody been up the Nesakwatch road this spring? Did the washouts get patched up or get worse or...?

Very cool. Especially the yellow shrub with red dirt wash behind (#3).

Apparently not a trade route, based on the silence. We got a look at it on Thursday (6-15), but did the NE gully. Nothing much to report that isn’t covered in the TRs from May 04 and 05. Was melted out in a couple spots, but a good day’s adventure.

Appreciate it, Don

OK, OK - sorry for jacking your thread, Ty Probably should have posted in the WEATHER WHINERS fourm anyway.

I was looking forward to an slightly less hypotethical answer to tlinn's question also. Anybody here actually know how long it takes for this climb to dry out, if it were to ever (hypothetically speaking) stop raining?

Anybody done this route? Curious about the A1 pitch that “has been done free” - how hard? Thanks for any info.

I was, actually. But with the council of Fred, I’ve seen the error of my ways.

When dry, that’s one of the cleanest gullies in the Cascades. Bummer you had to do it in such lousy conditions.

Cool! You must be OK with Vietnam war head trips, which is what most of OBrien’s work revolves around.

Sweetheart of Song Tra Bong is the one that stuck with me

The Things They Carried & Lake of the Woods are mind-bending.

Pick up a copy of Big Walls by Long/Middendorf, which has a lot of good info and graphics intermixed with classic climbing tales. For a technical book it's a pretty enjoyable read.

Depends on how much slop there is!

That's the one. Gary's middle shot is the butt-hanging move in all it's glory!

How bout the big flake undercling on the NW face of N Early Winter Spire? Nothing for the feet but vertical smears as you hang your butt out over the abyss! Then once you're up that, you get the long fist crack corner. Mmmm, what a great route.

It’s certainly been ‘car-to-car-ed’ before and the commitment wouldn’t be all that high. If you get to the top of the face and are short on time, you can traverse west across the Hanging Glacier and descend either the Chimneys or the White Salmon Glacier. It’d be a great day out, whether or not you tag the summit. But if you get stuck in the brush on the approach, you’re screwed!

and similar in steepness to main snow face on Redoubt?

Great photo. Anyone care to compare the difficulty of this route to the Redoubt NE face? McLane gives them both AD+, but Weart looks considerably smaller and less complex.

Dude, it isn't even the best in the Sultan Basin