curtveld

Check yer PMs Craig

Given that E & L are probably off taking advantage of the nice weather, I'll offer my impressions Rad. Your summary is not far off base, though pitches 4 & 6 are also very good. Elsewhere, forgettable yes, though nothing unpleasant either. Wouldn't rate too high at Squamish, but a nice long route by Cascade standards.

Way to escape the crowds! Much more alpine than it looks from a distance. Nice TR.

Same with me, except mine are a bit more beat up than those. They are extremely durable if treated right. In fact, I just gave some extras to a bud that is building a rack. So yeah, I'd definitely use them. You'll want to replace the slings, but that's cheap.

Very cool. I've never seen Whitney from that angle. Amazing how little snow those mountains hold for mid-April. Looks like July in the Cascades.

Link to trail reservations in the Inyo NF, including full dates. For Whitney technical routes, you want the 'NF Lone Pine Creek Overnight area'.

Did this route last summer and it is worth the long trek. Feels a bit like WA Pass might have before Highway 20 went through. Despite the ten mile hike in, the drive is truly the crux. Gene's beta is basically dead on except that there was a webbing ladder up the short aid section, as shown below. Most photos by Peter McBride. Soviet-inspired bridge on the drive in Steller campspot in the Wall Creek basin The traverse follows the skyline right to left over Matriarch, Macabre and Grimface Peaks First pitch – 5.4 but exposed Simul-hiking toward Matriarch summit block Topping out on the sweet 5.8 crack variation. Too bad it’s only 15 feet. Depending on what you're looking for, the many transitions between simul-climbing, belaying, third-class and rapping is either good practice or PITA. Branch & webbing ladder up the short aid section Checking out the “cubby hole” area on Grimface on the descent Grimface alpenglow from camp

Great climb. Fern and Ty's descriptions match my memories. Most of McLane's pitch ratings seemed accurate, except the second 10a slab, which felt more like 5.8. It's pretty blank, so if its a bit dirty, it might feel more like 5.10.

Lots of good advice - much appreciated. Yeah, FF makes a great bag. My warmer bag from them is pushing 15 years and good as new. Their lightweight mummies looked a little on the narrow side. I'm medium sized, but tend to toss and turn. I went with the slightly wider WM Caribou. A little tougher fabric than the Extreme-lite series and the price wasn't tooooo outrageous. Now I can obsess about the next pressing gear issue.

WM bags are highly regarded, but I wonder about this too. $300+ is big outlay for something that might not hold up too well. The WM Caribou may be worth a look as is MEC's new Merlin bag.

Cool. Which model?

Thanks James, the no-insulation-underneath strategy is a good one. Sol, looks like a sweet bag but I'm looking for a lighter alternative to my 10 degree bag. Gotta keep filling the quiver.

Looking for a bag for mild conditions the Cascades - backpacking and high camps around tree line. I’m leaning toward a lightweight 30 or 35 degree down bag. Any thoughts on how warm a bag is most useful?

Yeah, except that 86 of them would have no posts. The North Cascades could easily be split into two or three forums. NE Cascades/WA Pass could support its own as well.

You're probably aware that the Cascades will still be full of snow that time of year, so ski transport would be a good call for a longer trip. Otherwise it's kinda late for technical snow/ice and early for alpine rock. Good neighborhoods for moderate linkups could be Eldorado/Forbidden/Buckner, Maude&Fernow, Redoubt/Spickard, Baker/Shuksan, for starters. Or could be a good time for a steep volcano route if you catch some nice weather. See this recent thread for more thoughts on early season options.

The BIG rock slide from 03 was on the west side of the valley and didn't hit the overgrown logging road up Goodell. Pretty spectacular - makes the one up from Newhalem that hit 20 look puny.

I've got a couple shots taken from across the valley last summer. Not ideal lighting, but would probably work. Let me know if you don't find the one you're looking for.

This would be the equivalent of going to the horse races and putting your entire stack on the long shot in the first race. Great fun if things work out, but... Personally, I'd go with previous posts and come with a handful of options.

Wish I had something local to offer, but it just wasn't much of a summer around here. So.. The first pitch of Levitation 29 (not my photo) doesn’t get much fanfare because it’s not a crux. Incredible brown varnished rock – smooth and devoid of the little finger edges scattering the upper pitches. More intricate climbing than most Red Rock 10s and you’ve got to watch for occasional thin gear to supplement the few bolts.

Definitely - you kind of have to commit to using doubles regularly to get used to the extra rope management. If you (or your belayer) are not reasonably smooth at the belaying and stacking, you’ll come to hate it. Wandering slab climbs that need long rappels (Dreamer!) are the best place to give it a try if you have a 9 to combine with your lead rope.

I've done it numerous times and I assure you that it's a sketchy little trail that crosses the creek on a HUGE old growth log with steps cut into it and such. Really adds to the feeling of finding a secret climbing spot that the Comb has traditionally been. Maybe you're overdue for a little bourbon or something, Matt?

A sweet-looking route with that thin little corner. Sounds like the approach trail from the road is better than the hobbit path over from 3 O’clock rock. Hope that wooden grate is still there come next spring.

There was a definite shortage of either humor or serious adventure among the Bham selections. The Sharma and Potter profiles had some cool climbing but both were pretty staged. My favorite was the Black-eyed-snakes XC ski film. Had the goofy seat-of-the pants feel that was generally missing.

Same story yesterday - nice weather, nobody but us climbing. The park is open but no fee required.

Close call of the trip: Cruising up 97 afterwards to catch the last burger at Gustavs, Andy swerved to miss a roadkill deer in the middle of the lane. He swerved back left to stay on the road and nearly overshot into an oncoming car. Holy shee-ite! Marcus’ post about tragedy striking where you least expect it reminded me of that.