curtveld

Something told me you might know the answer to that one, Dru How bout all those clean slabs you walk by on the approach?

There was one about 6-7 feet up the thing. Good for a quick pull, but too low to sling.

The Glass Castle by Jeannette Walls - guaranteed to help you keep your injuries in perspective. And lots more ideas here

Did it once. So far it's the only WA Pass route I couldn't recommend to anyone, for the reasons Forrest mentions. Some nice cracks up high, but lots of scary junk to get there.

Ah yes, if I’d known then what I know now… We were going on McLane’s time estimate of 10-14 hours from camp, which turns out to be quite conservative for experienced climbers. Martin and I had not climbed together before so there was some uncertainty about how fast we’d move. But I have no regrets – the sunset from camp was gorgeous. And we had plenty of daylight for the border and drive home.

Climb: Nesawkwatch Spires and Mt Rexford-Ensawkwatch Enchainment Date of Climb: 8/13/2006 Trip Report: Yup, this TR is a little slow out of the chute, but figured MCash’s fine photos will open a few eyes to some nice alpine granite outside the Stuart Range and Washington Pass areas. The Enchainment is a nice longish outing on clean granite that gives great views of Slesse’s eastern walls, the Cheam Range and many border area peaks. Though recent enchainers have done this route car-to-car, we went for a more relaxed overnight plan. The approach is a serious quad-burner in both directions, so maybe the fast light plan is the way to go. Won’t load you down with much beta because McLane’s Alpine Select gives you all the info you need. Camp below the N. Nesakwatch Spire. If we hadn’t brought the tent, the bugs would have been much worse. South Illusion Spire – anybody know if the wall on the left has been climbed? Fun climbing on clean blocks. From the North Spire, the route follows the ridge crest (right edge of sunlight) to the South Spire and Rexford behind. The South Spire has the most sustained class 5 climbing of the route. A short 5.7 off-width is required to reach the South Spire’s summit. Bring a 6” cam or be ready to chicken wing or power layback it. Getting down requires a bit of ingenuity, too. A bit more exposed mid-fifth reaches Rexford’s summit pinnacle. Martin and the mighty “fang” of the Chilliwack. The descent is fairly easy - arrived back in camp after about 8 hours. And yes, Martin did cruise his share of the leads! Gear Notes: A 60 m half rope worked well, as advertised

Isn’t that 10b Urban Bypass pitch amazing? Those little chickenheads just keep getting skinnier and slopier before disappearing entirely right near the top. And hardly a decent stance in the whole pitch. Here's to the original crazed fool with the drill

Offer to bring the lunch if your partner will drive? Drederek is right - it’s pretty easy. Follow the main road to the 8-mile trailhead and keep driving as far as your partner is willing. The approach is well beaten down but still a bit of work. Nice fall colors up there right now.

To quote Lynn Hill: “It goes, boys!”. My little sedan made the bypass and to within about a quarter mile of the end, though it was pretty rough going. Get it now, before another winter takes it’s toll.

I agree with fender4 that you should be able to find a guide willing to go at a relatively leisurely pace, but I suggest you choose carefully. I would call a few guides BEFORE you hire one and explain what kind of trip you want. If it seems like they are really interested in understanding, they might worth considering. If they seem like they want you to do the trip on their normal timetable, that would be a red flag. But you might want to make sure your group is clear whether your top priority is going your own pace or summitting, since those two things might not lead to the same decisions along the way. Hope you get the trip you want.

Dunno - is the climber making the most repetitive posts the one having the most fun? So..…anybody know anything about the Scarpa Thunders?

Anybody try the Scarpa Thunder? Looks like a nice all-rounder and cheap too - $90.

The 3OC Rock trail is actually the Squire Creek Pass trail reached from the back side, if you ever went up there. Should be plenty more nice days this fall to go check it out. And, as this climber knows, Dreamer is a great route to lead on double ropes, especially the meandering pitches #6 & 7. Allows full length raps and no extra rope hauling for the second. And it makes you feel SO european!

You guys make this thing sound downright reasonable! Well done, Darin and Marcus.

Sporty indeed! I turned back on this last June when it was dripping wet in addition to the sparse pro. Kind of unfortunate to have such a nice moderate route "protected" by an R-rated first pitch. Perhaps a fixed pin or bolt (gasp!) or two would be a good addition there. Yes, yes, with the FA party’s approval, of course.

Actually red Fred mentions both, but kind of hard to tell just how nasty. Is the West Ridge any better, rock wise?

Anybody been on this route? I stood at the base of it a couple of years ago and it looked steep and interesting.

That’s a damn long hike in and out of there to not get on the climb! Hope the injured climber is on the mend and you can get back after it.

Taking the Early-Marble-Dorado circuit to the next level!

Bummer about the loss of the Skoog/Brill Way to put up a new classic to motivate us procrastinators

If my dog was half as ugly as you, I’d shave his rear and teach him to walk backward.

Personally I don’t have a big problem, unless people are using them while climbing or belaying. That could be dangerous.

I'm all set - thanks for the replies!

Looking for a long day out with some quality 5.9/5.10. Ideas: Dragontail – N. Face or Backbone Colchuck – NE Butt E.F. Lexington Darrington – Dark Rhythm, Dreamer Yak Check Fri, Sat or Sun (11-13th) are all options. PM me and we’ll go from there.

If you want to do a full day Friday (Dreamer or a 5.10?), I'll meet you for the day. PM if interested.