Rad

Might be faster to do the 'walkoff' if there is any sort of trail...rapping is slow.

Thanks smarty pants. Why not suggest she not get married, or not climb? ............. You might post notes at both trailheads. Good luck finding it.

My 2 cents: 1 - Follow leaders with racks a lot before you go and build your own rack. This will give you a sense of what is most useful. 2 - Start out with stoppers and hexes and tricams. They are cheap, and you should learn to place them and not always rely on cams. 3 - Never get used soft gear (rope, harness, slings, cordelette etc). Nylon decomposes pretty fast. Same goes for booty. 4 - Most hardware is probably OK. Stoppers are easily inspected visually. I own more from booty than ones I bought. Cams should be free of major dings and demonstrate good expansion and retraction properties. If you can't test these I wouldn't buy them. So if I find a sling and biner booty I will throw out the sling and keep the biner. Nuts I keep. I've only found a few cams. One was an original friend I got in the Pickets. I have only used that once in a TR anchor where other pieces were present as backups. My main concern is it's sling, which I could replace, and outdated design and weight. Lastly, watch the Yard Sale category here. Sometimes good stuff comes up. Caveat emptor.

btw, what are the spires in the bkgd of the last photo? Looks like they are at least as tall and might attract both climbers and highline walkers.

Scary. The alpine habit of testing holds before weighting them may save you from a few future falls. Current thinking on wound healing is that moist is best. Cover under bandage and copious antibiotic ointment until closed. Then use serious moisturizer (eg Eucerine) until completely healed.

Holy turkey necks! Wayne, how hard is that free? Would the gear/hardware hold a lead fall?

Looks like what Kenny would wear before dying a horrible death.

The SeaTimes is careful not to describe these folks as climbers, even though it says they were climbing. The public probably sees them as climbers anyway. "Not experienced and not dressed for a climbing trip" probably describes all of us at one point or another. MLUS for Washington coming soon? In any case, it would've been a cold, wet night out last night and I'm glad they are safe. ...................... Two brothers who were stranded overnight near the Big Four Ice Caves by Granite Falls have been rescued, the Snohomish County Sheriff's Office said. This morning, rescue workers from Snohomish, King and Skagit counties, as well as sheriff's deputies, worked to help the men, ages 37 and 19, of Marysville, who had been stranded while climbing Monday. "It's probably not a stretch to say the men are cold and tired," said sheriff's office spokeswoman Rebecca Hover in a note to reporters. The men were not injured. Rescue workers were able to make voice contact with the men yesterday evening, after people heard the brothers yelling and called for help, according to Hover. Rescuers also used handheld thermal devices to pinpoint the location of the men. About seven rescue workers spent the night near the scene, but the team waited till daylight today to continue the rescue efforts, the sheriff's office said. The rescue was done by King County's helicopter Guardian One. Workers on the ground directed it to the right location and used the helicopter's hoist to bring the two men inside the helicopter. Deputies said the men were not experienced climbers and were not dressed for a climbing trip.

Yikes! Sounds like a near miss. Glad you got away unscathed, but those bears now associate climbers with food. Not sure what else you could have done... The mink/weasel may be a martin. Very handsome snaffle that.

A fool and his money are soon parted. Caveat emptor

Way to persevere and good call waiting for daylight. That gully is bad news!

NE buttress upper cathedral is in shade most of the day. But if it's 100 RumR's right, head to Tuolumne and DITCH THE CELLPHONE!

Blake, On the last LA pitch just follow your nose. After you clip the bolt you can go straight up and then left a bit, finishing about 6ft right of the leftmost tree. That's where the bolts/rap station are. There is plenty of pro available for that pitch so I don't think it's R now that it has the bolt. On the second to last pitch of LA, the upper traverse is obvious, as is the lower one. There is plenty of pro. The lower traverse bolt has a nasty sling on it (for A0 or bailing?). We just did the upper traverse. Lastly, you could easily link these two pitches of LA, as they are not that long. Have fun! R

See 'not in a day' thread.

you might start here: nws link

CBS, did you flake on the Dtown party?

PM sent.

Roger that, Ross. Hopefully Squamish in September!

whatever. He said he saw Slesse from that vantage in his TR. I haven't looked at the map to know if it's feasible. Why don't you go embed a disposable gps in the upper snow there next year mr. geo, and then we can monitor real time.

I've been wanting to do the grand wall for some time now, but am not strong enough to lead sustained trad 11a yet. Perhaps Triggerhappy may be for me what Hansel is for Porter DHLA is not as long as you might guess. p1 is 90ft. p2 is 100ft (we strung them together with a 60m rope. p3 is about 110ft (that's why people have trouble rapping it w/a single 60). p4 is 70-80ft. p5 is slightly longer, and p6 (5.9) is about 50-60ft. Next time, I'll probably link the last two pitches, though standing on that last ledge

tlinn, could you see it from the Steinbock-Ibex col?

Climbed with rope. Walked down good trail. No sweat (actually, lots of sweat on p2!). Great day out!

DH to LA today. What a fabulous route! Scrumpdelicious day! sickie All anchors are >= 2 bolts + chains. There is one hangerless stud in need of a wench and some screwing at the very top of the cliff on Lovin Arms, but there are 3 other bolts nearby, 2 with chains. Also, there is a bolt 1/3 of the way up the '5.9R' last pitch of LH. There are also opportunities for natural pro on this short pitch so IMHO the R rating is no longer warranted. btw, the walkoff is easy as pie.

Cool. Thanks. That means no backing off!

That would be fine. Shoes are much lighter than a second rope. Any beta?