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Everything posted by Rad
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- post deleted - see below.
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Thanks all. Nice ones. Up late because son won't sleep, so here are some more bouldering vids:
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With you on that one. Too much of life is indoors already.
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Nope. I think the guide shows it as a short 10d but it didn't look appealing when I was up there a year ago. So I don't know much. I've never seen a climb at X38 or X32 without top anchors as most were bolted on rappel...so wear your helment and go for it and let us know.
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For me, the top two are David Graham on the FA of Coup De Grace in Dosage IV and Sharma on the FA of Es Pontas in King Lines. They are not on the interweb. Got more to add to my list? The intersection of power, precision, focus, passion, and creativity. Awe-inspiring. Great cinematography and music help too.
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[TR] Harrison Bluffs.... - Lead Bolting 101 3/20/2010
Rad replied to marc_leclerc's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Awesome. Thanks for posting. Good luck sending that blank slab. "Tamara is always happy..." A wonderful personality trait or medication state, whichever the case may be. -
Stationary bike workout for Mountaineering?
Rad replied to DanO's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Jon's graph is a good one that I think a lot of people miss: rest and recovery are important because that's when growth/strengthening/repair happens. Too little rest is bad. Too much rest is bad. Find the sweet spot. -
Cool. There's an excellent new 11b (Tea Time) that takes a line just right of an 11c down the hill (11c shares an anchor with the super soft 10c). CC.com was working on developing a route wiki. Not sure where that stands.
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Crevasses are not an issue on that thing, only whether it is hard or not.
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So which hotel(s) have the best value/quality all you can eat gourmet buffet value?
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East facing crags tend to dry fast, but watch the forecast. Winds out of the East funnel in and rip through the areas that are not in the woods, making some annoying conditions. Other crags will be more sheltered from wind but will seep longer.
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Search for TRs on this site and you'll find some good info and people to pm for detailed beta.
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Thanks Jon. Search improvements are greatly appreciated.
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first ascent [TR] Assassin Spire - NW Face (IV, WI4+) FA
Rad replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
We'd love to have this in the Northwest Mountaineering Journal this year in one form or another. One of us will contact you about that. Rad -
first ascent [TR] Assassin Spire - NW Face (IV, WI4+) FA
Rad replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Very impressive, nicely written, and beautiful photos! -
Kay, Many on this site view TRs as the best content on cc.com. A number of TR posters have gotten tired of the endless spray that clogs the arteries here, and several have stopped posting their cool climbing stories. So if someone like you makes a post that threatens to eliminate another chunk of TRs, it should not be surprising that many people take offense. Without TRs this site would be just another trash talk heap on the interweb. If talking trash about TRs is your thing then find one of those other sites or move to spray. Thanks and have a lovely day. Rad
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Actually, today I went to Si. It was so SICK! Well, maybe not the big Si cuz we're not ready for that. Just the Little Si. It was still totally SICK, though. Actually, we didn't make it all the way up the trail, we got sidetracked by this SICK cliff. There were some small curly-haired dogs walking on the trail that left little curly dumps on the gravel by the parking lot - SICK! -but they didn't scare us - the dogs or their dumps- cuz we're climbers. Well, mybe not REAL climbers, more like SPORT climbers. So we warmed up on a reptilian climb. It was SICK. A few bolts next to a crack. But hey, it's sport climbing so what do you want?! We used my pink rope. The anchors look crappy and need to be replaced so someone doesn't lower, fall, bounce on his head on the ledge, and fly into the trees below in a pile of gelatinous gray matter. SICK! Then we went to climb some route named after prana-topped hotties in VW. It was SICK . The route was dry except on the last move to the chains you had to step into a sopping slobbery foothold while pulling an undercling on an overhanging wall. SICK. Clip, clip. Lower. Meanwhile, a 5.14 climber was warming up on my SICK project. Well, it's not mine, and it's not a project, cuz it's been climbed 1000s of times be4, but it's a project for me cuz I haven't climbed it so I was projecting my proj. And it's SO SICK! It would be my first at that number grade. So I asked the 5.14 climber to hang some qdraws for me, cuz I'll take any help I can get. So I set out on my redpoint attempt - actually pinkpoint because the draws were pre-placed - feeling like Superman. Well, not really super, but at least OK, and more like a sport climber dude than a real MAN, so really just an OK sport climber dude. SICK! I was stressed beacuse my lucky chalkbag was at the gym where I left it on Friday, but I borrowed one so it was ok. So I started up the proj. I made it through the SICK bouldery lower crux, rested on the ledge while my belayer untangled a hairball of rope, barely hung in there through the enduro middle, and snagged a SICK rest on a hold so caked with chalk it looked like a seagull guanofest party. But I chalked more anyway cuz it was my proj I was projecting. Then I slapped up the arete, sketched past the second to last bolt and...fell two moves from the end of the bidness of the route. Not so sick. More sickening. Simply ran out of juice and couldn't crimp the crimpy crimps on the bouldery upper bulging SICK final crux. So I hung like only sportos can and then climbed to the top, undaunted by the fact that the bolts were almost 6 ft apart! SICK! Redpoint still awaits. So that was my day at Mt Si, or at least Little SI, or somewhere up the trail half way to Little Si. SICK!
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I'm working on an article on this topic for the NWMJ this year. If you have comments to share send me a pm or post them. I'm sure they SAR folks are relieved to have solved this mystery.
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p1 Davis Holland is wet/damp much of the year. It's just part of the experience, like the crux move on the Regular route on Fairview in Tuolumne.
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They still ship the bolts I use to the USA. I think it varies by item depending on their deal with the manufacturer.
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Excellent game. Congrats Canada, you were the better team. USA probably played with more heart for the second half of regulation. I'm glad USA scored that goal near the end to force you to actually WIN the game instead of playing not to lose - prevent defense is lame in any sport.
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USA has 9 Not much consolation when the US takes gold in THE hockey game!
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[TR] Mt Baring - Standard - West Ridge 2/20/2010
Rad replied to Pilchuck71's topic in North Cascades
Nice. It's a good aerobis workout in the summer too. -
don't forget to spay and neuter your pets