Phil K

Geneva conventions, shit. How about God's (or should I say god's) laws? These bastards have no morality at all. Showing Saddam in his tighty whities is the least of the crimes agianst justice and humanity that they have comitted. Sick fucking lying bastards.

I'd call it a bit scary; bad weather, bad snow, bad navigation, mondo packs, thrutching on the crux.... lucky to have made it?

"My other car is up my nose"

Hugh Banner Offsets: The best. OK, just an opinion, but I never pass up an opportunity to recommend these. I've used all sorts of shite, and find most of 'em about the same, but the HB's set so securely and work in funky flares like nothing else I've tried. Another thang, IMHO color coding doesn't do much for me. Maybe I'm too ADD to remember which is which. I look at the widget, look at the crevice, and nine times out of ten (or better) get it right. Too much brain power required to remember that red is 0.375 - 0.525" blue is 0.525 - 0.875" or whatever. Am I alone? (oh pleeze God, no!)

'Just got a Myo 3 'cause the past few times I had to actually find my way around in the dark, I realized that my Princeton Tech Aurora wasn't up to the task. I'll upgrade to the Lithium AA's 'cause they are both lighter and work better in the cold. The choice of LED for battery life or halogen for brightness is worth the extra weight in many cases. I'll keep the itty bitty Princeton for when I think it will be enuf.

Anyone know where I can get me some lederhosen?

I authored the original whiney post complaining about the slowpokery. Hopefully not too whiney. I know that OS is a popular choice for people who feel compelled to climb something over their heads, but I was impressed with the choice of route as a first multi-pitch outing. I don't know if the communications between the slowpokers and their neighbors was friendly or if there was any discussion of passing or not. I think they could have figgered it out for themselves, but that didn't happen. In self defense- I knew we were in for some waiting around time, and maintained a mellow attitude throughout, based on our calculation that at least we were not going to get suckered into doing the descent in the dark. Hey, and I got a kewl new nickname in the discussion that followed.

Crazy? Compared to say, ignoring the overwhelming scientific evidence that we have a bit of a problem with global warming and having our federal gummint run by a bunch of insane greedheads who consider it more important to pump every possible dollar into the hands of the super wealthy even if it requires a major war and a willfull ignorance of the facts? Hmmmm, lemmie think about it.

So here's my question; got in a few nice routes at Static Point last weekend. Online, and Offline (not quite as nice.) At some point you are 30+ feet above your last bolt. Obvioulsly, the idea is not to fall, and hey, it's only 5.8 or so. What do you do if you screw it up? Suck it up and slide, tumble and bounce, run downhill? Any ideas or suggestions, any good horror tales?

Acupuncture.

There once was a young sheep named Dolly 'Looked just like her maamaa by golly. When asked if he would, if only he could, The CC.com'er said "Prolly!"

I'm curious; on the USGS map the 4500' level seems to be up near the top of the steep section, where the trail starts to flatten out. Might you be off with your elevation estimate? 3500' perhaps? Oh, and nice work, BTW.

I've got a pair and like them just fine. Sufficiently warm? Yeah, I think so, I've used them ice climbing to about 5 farenhiet and been comfortable, if not exactly toasty. They do indeed seem to fit just ablut like the Makalus. Probably fairly robust; though I haven't used them for a lot of alpine thrashing yet a friend of mine seems to get away with it.

I'm no meteoriteologist either, and if I was, chances I wouldn't know much about the weather. Hemmorhoidologist? That's who we ought to ask about this weather pattern.

Yah Mon, fit is important. There isn't very much difference in terms of features, other than the choice between dropable/adjustable leg loops or not. Look at weights. If you are planning on doing alpine stuff, you might as well start considering the weight of every peice of equipment now, rather than have to start replacing good gear to save a few ounces later on.

Oh, and what's up with TR-ing off V-threads? I've used 'em for summer ice seracing, and they sure melt out slower than an ice screw.

'Looks more to me like you use the wire thingy to thread a piece of cord through the hole you've just drilled, then tie it off. Just like a regular V-thread. Interesting that they appraently used it to anchor subs; I wonder if komrade Abalakov was in the Navy?

Yep, hard at work, that's what I am. http://www.brianzajac.com/personal/ugliest_dog08-16-03/index.html Some nice ones here.

Oy! Mia culpa. I went back and looked at the TR, and he does say attempted. Forgiveness is a virtue.

Awsome climb, well written TR, nice job and all that, but I just wonder; does "Complete North Ridge" sound quite appropriate? Not to belittle anyone's efforts, or suggest that I've got the huevos to pull this off myself, but it sounds more like a lower North Ridge climb to me. OK, let the pummeling begin, I can take it.

I'm so proud of you Heinrich! Glad you made it; way to jump in that weather window. Excellent adventure on N Twin Sister last week, the pictures are beautiful!

OK, "per manufacturers" is a bit of a broad claim. I bought a Maxim a few years ago, and the hang tag with the rope recommended marking the middle with a sharpie. (I think that was the recommended brand, sharpie, marks-a-lot, whatever. They're probably all about the same.) So, yeah, I'm a bit surprised with the edge test failures. I learned something new, whaddya know. I think I'll try the dental floss trick next time, or spring for a new Mamut; always really liked their ropes. Thanks.

You Didn't! Hmmm, best thing would be if you just send me the rope. Is it new? Actually, the magic marker is OK per manufacturers.

MEC gear rocks! Well thought out, functional, great prices. I've got a Northern Lite Pullover, softshell pants, and a bunch of other stuff. I've never been dissappointed. The N. Lite is really great; though not incredibly warm, it is really light, works well in wind, and is surprisingly tough.

Short, but fun. 'Ought to be in better shape with some more cold weather. Worth the two hours walk for an alternative if Hubba Hubba is too crowded. Thanks for posting, and nice to meet you guys.