Phil K

Anyone know where I can get me some lederhosen?

I authored the original whiney post complaining about the slowpokery. Hopefully not too whiney. I know that OS is a popular choice for people who feel compelled to climb something over their heads, but I was impressed with the choice of route as a first multi-pitch outing. I don't know if the communications between the slowpokers and their neighbors was friendly or if there was any discussion of passing or not. I think they could have figgered it out for themselves, but that didn't happen. In self defense- I knew we were in for some waiting around time, and maintained a mellow attitude throughout, based on our calculation that at least we were not going to get suckered into doing the descent in the dark. Hey, and I got a kewl new nickname in the discussion that followed.

Crazy? Compared to say, ignoring the overwhelming scientific evidence that we have a bit of a problem with global warming and having our federal gummint run by a bunch of insane greedheads who consider it more important to pump every possible dollar into the hands of the super wealthy even if it requires a major war and a willfull ignorance of the facts? Hmmmm, lemmie think about it.

So here's my question; got in a few nice routes at Static Point last weekend. Online, and Offline (not quite as nice.) At some point you are 30+ feet above your last bolt. Obvioulsly, the idea is not to fall, and hey, it's only 5.8 or so. What do you do if you screw it up? Suck it up and slide, tumble and bounce, run downhill? Any ideas or suggestions, any good horror tales?

Acupuncture.

There once was a young sheep named Dolly 'Looked just like her maamaa by golly. When asked if he would, if only he could, The CC.com'er said "Prolly!"

I'm curious; on the USGS map the 4500' level seems to be up near the top of the steep section, where the trail starts to flatten out. Might you be off with your elevation estimate? 3500' perhaps? Oh, and nice work, BTW.

I've got a pair and like them just fine. Sufficiently warm? Yeah, I think so, I've used them ice climbing to about 5 farenhiet and been comfortable, if not exactly toasty. They do indeed seem to fit just ablut like the Makalus. Probably fairly robust; though I haven't used them for a lot of alpine thrashing yet a friend of mine seems to get away with it.

I'm no meteoriteologist either, and if I was, chances I wouldn't know much about the weather. Hemmorhoidologist? That's who we ought to ask about this weather pattern.

Yah Mon, fit is important. There isn't very much difference in terms of features, other than the choice between dropable/adjustable leg loops or not. Look at weights. If you are planning on doing alpine stuff, you might as well start considering the weight of every peice of equipment now, rather than have to start replacing good gear to save a few ounces later on.

Oh, and what's up with TR-ing off V-threads? I've used 'em for summer ice seracing, and they sure melt out slower than an ice screw.

'Looks more to me like you use the wire thingy to thread a piece of cord through the hole you've just drilled, then tie it off. Just like a regular V-thread. Interesting that they appraently used it to anchor subs; I wonder if komrade Abalakov was in the Navy?

Yep, hard at work, that's what I am. http://www.brianzajac.com/personal/ugliest_dog08-16-03/index.html Some nice ones here.

Oy! Mia culpa. I went back and looked at the TR, and he does say attempted. Forgiveness is a virtue.

Awsome climb, well written TR, nice job and all that, but I just wonder; does "Complete North Ridge" sound quite appropriate? Not to belittle anyone's efforts, or suggest that I've got the huevos to pull this off myself, but it sounds more like a lower North Ridge climb to me. OK, let the pummeling begin, I can take it.

I'm so proud of you Heinrich! Glad you made it; way to jump in that weather window. Excellent adventure on N Twin Sister last week, the pictures are beautiful!

OK, "per manufacturers" is a bit of a broad claim. I bought a Maxim a few years ago, and the hang tag with the rope recommended marking the middle with a sharpie. (I think that was the recommended brand, sharpie, marks-a-lot, whatever. They're probably all about the same.) So, yeah, I'm a bit surprised with the edge test failures. I learned something new, whaddya know. I think I'll try the dental floss trick next time, or spring for a new Mamut; always really liked their ropes. Thanks.

You Didn't! Hmmm, best thing would be if you just send me the rope. Is it new? Actually, the magic marker is OK per manufacturers.

MEC gear rocks! Well thought out, functional, great prices. I've got a Northern Lite Pullover, softshell pants, and a bunch of other stuff. I've never been dissappointed. The N. Lite is really great; though not incredibly warm, it is really light, works well in wind, and is surprisingly tough.

Short, but fun. 'Ought to be in better shape with some more cold weather. Worth the two hours walk for an alternative if Hubba Hubba is too crowded. Thanks for posting, and nice to meet you guys.

That pile of rock in the far distance is, of course, Silverstar and the Wine Spires. The picture is taken from near the former lookout site on Stiletto Peak. I'm pretty sure the lump on the right margin is Copper Peak, behind which would be the Early Winters group.

Acupuncture. There's a coulple of points "down there" that can be needled, though I've never tried it myself. Philonius, LAc.

'Figuring that alpine conditions were likely to be horrible, a few of us went to L'worth on the 26th. Geordie is right that things are looking pretty skinny...but. We drove out to look at Hubba Hubba; it's starting to show some promise, definitely enough ice to climb, if not protect. We took that as a hint and hiked up Snow Lake trail to Millennium Walls. What we found wasn't great, but enough to make our day worthwhile. We had foolishly left the snowshoes in the car, and paid the price with an epic wallow just to get to the toprope anchors. After that was accomplished, we managed to work in four or so nice variations on the right hand end of the formations. Cool verglass finish to get back to the anchors. Bring a 60 m rope if you can, it'll make belaying off the big solid tree much easier.

I just had a conversation with Don Thompson with the USFS, and yes, parking is to be closed starting sometime this week. He has met with the ski area management, and they do in fact have the right to restrict both parking in "their" lots, and use of the winter trail which runs up the west side of the valley and is included in their FS lease. Your $30 trail park permit is no use either, as the trail park is officially closed during the winter season. The ski area has several areas of concern, including user conflict between day users and skiers, liability in light of the recent avalanche fatality w/ involvement of their ski patrol in the search, and (most importantly,) the cost of maintaining plowed parking which they estimate at +/- $100 per car for the season, combined with the fact that they have to turn away paying customers d/t limited parking capacity. Don indicates that the FS has no say in the matter, and is looking into alternatives, such as maintaining the Commonwealth Basin parking lot as a Sno-Park area. He did not expect that to happen any time soon. He wasn't sure if the ski area would be ticketing or towing unauthorized vehicles. He suggested that rather than hammering on him, you send emails to ldonovan@fs.fed.us , who is with the FS headquarters in Montlake Terrace and has more ability to get alternatives underway.

Didn't Bush comment that 9/11 was like winning the Trifecta? He could inflate the defense budget infinitely, slam through all sorts of envionnmental and civil liberty- busting legislation and call anyone who dared question his motives a traitor. Makes you wonder.....