Phil K

I've got a nice picture of me on the summit of Maude in June with a string of three purple baloons which drifted in while we were on the summit. They're cute when still alive, but do become junk. I've picked up a number of both rubber and mylar baloons over the years, they're everywhere. At least the rubber ones will rot away in a while. Mylar lasts...? A long time.

Yeah, I want to see this reeling in shit work too. I doubt if anyone could pull in much rope through any device fast enough to make much difference and still be able to lock off a fall. I especially liked the one about reeling in 10 feet of slack when a leader takes a 20 footer with no pro off the belay. How the heck do you plan on doing that?

Nothin', but nothin' makes me feel like climbing does. I've been at at since.... Well, I was one of those kids who just grew up climbing out of the crib, up furniture, you name it. Eventually moved on to rocks, trees, whatever. You may be a climber if you can't imagine not being one. I moved to WA in 1984 after visiting and getting a good look at the amazing mountains out here. I still just can't get enough. Challenge, focus, beauty, comradarie, lurking fear, that incredible feeling after a hard lead. Noting else does it.

Chouinard used to sell an item called the Seilbremse ("rope brake" in German. ) It's a small steel device similar to a figure eight, originally made for evacuations from stuck ski lifts. It is used like an eight for belaying or rappelling. You might be able to pick one up at some used gear places, or even find 'em on the web. In fact, I've got one in my basement, lightly used. You want?

Well, this topics been pretty well flogged, even got into the required nasty personal attacks for a while, good! Re axe weight: according to published data, the Rage (25.6 oz) and the Alp WIng (25.1 oz) are too close to notice any difference. It's all a matter of how they feel in your hand, balance and swing. And as previously mentioned, all modern high end tools are really excellent. Go swing a few, compare prices, and try not to worry about it any more. It's who's swinging 'em that actually matters. Look at some of the hard routes that were put up with gear that you couldn't give away today.

I've got a pair of the Light Wings. About the same tool, minus the rubber grip and steel spike. (I notice they've added a light steel spike this year.) I really like mine, great for alpine ice; light and nice to swing. 'Haven't had a chance to plant them in water ice yet, but a friend of mine has used them a bunch and thinks they're great.

My wife and I were up there that very same time. We had climber the NW Ridge to Glisan Pinnacle, thinking that there maight have been a "safer" route from that direction. We looked at the 45degree scree/choss we would have to traverse, and decided not to try. It's very trecherous ground, insecure and unprotectable. We watched the two other parties on the snow field and were glad not to have witnessed an accident. Later on that day, when the Blackhawk arrived and spent 30 minutes in close proximity to the summit, I knew someone was in big trouble. My advice; stay away unless it's snow covered, and then, stay away anyhow.