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Everything posted by shapp
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The real deal is buying european brands in canada, like DMM or wildcountry or Petzel because from what I understand Canada has no tax on incoming european goods while the U.S. does. Therefore, the price is even cheaper after taking into acount the exchange rate bonus. I have bought from them and had no problems although a freind of mine bought a MEC sleeping bag several years ago that was pretty poor quality worksmanship.
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this must be a troll, there is more rock around tucson than in the whole state of Oregon. Rappel rock on top of Mt. Lemon will give you a goud 6 pitch trad fix and all the sport you want is along the road on the drive up (I don't know what the fire did though). Sabino Canyon offers many routes, there are many back country walls right near town, the most famous may be leviathon dome (only 1000-ft or so of excellent granite, gaurded by a couple hour pushwack through shin daggers). Get the backcountry guide and the general arizona guide and you will be set. The tucson area is one of my favorite places to climb. Don't forget to hit the desert museum and Kartchner Caverns down towards tombstone (it is very much worth the few bucks).
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to a good home: two reel push lawn mowers $10 each. both work, but need a little sharpening with a file and some WD-40. Bought a new house and need a biger mower. Live in everett and work in wallingford. email me jasonshappart2001@yahoo.com
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So ryland, a little more info on the access. Will public access be allowed or not, I can't tell from what you said. Thanks for the info. Peace
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mostly bolted, few trad, mostly steep, fairly solid, 1 pitch, rock similar to umpqua areas
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Ryland, Chill - I didn't say anything bout people's private property being mine. I totally agree that we should not trespass without permission on private property. I am a huge private property advocate. I am just saying that as climbers it is laim to hoard a place in an area with limited rock, when there are many avenues to turn that piece of land into a park, preserse, conservation easement, many many things that would eliminate liability of the owners, while providing a mechanism for stewardship. Although, I haven't worked on a project like that for a climbing area, but I have for fishing access and a few land trade deals for habitat preservation, as this is what I do for a job. Also, climbers aren't the ones trashing those cliffs as I am sure you know. It is young teanagers who go up there and party. You aint talking to a newby who doesn't know the area. I grew up just down the road not too far and lived there for 22 years. But don't misunderstand me. I am not promoting people go use private property, and I aint saying I am entitled to use it either, but wish the area could be made public. BTW the butterfly lives way up on the hill, not in the woods, also there are osprey that nest at the cliff, right near the top of some climbs. I wonder if they have a voluntary no climbing season for the ospery nesting season, I don't think they do.
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As far as I am concerned the owner is laim. I talked with those folks back in the early 1990s. They suck, if they were real climbers they would talk to the access fund and find away to be bought out, and turn it into a climbing park. With the shortage of west side rock their attitude is pure selfishness. BTH Megaman, dude have you never looked up at baldy and seen he crags down low? How long have you lived in the area? To a climber, these cliffs are obvious from all over Springfield.
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Rodchester, I think you are hopeless. Take your single stem cams, place a couple in a horizontal placement with the stem hanging over the edge, climb up about 10 feet and take a jump, report back to us if your cable on that piece is totally fucked. Second, take rigid friend with a gunks tie-off, place it in the same horizontal crack, climb up ten feet and jump. Report back to us that the sling absorbed the force over the edge, and the cam looks exactly like it did before you took the leap. Scratch your head and consult John Longs anchor books, post your gear for sale on cc.com and take up fishing.
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Rodchester, I said "cables get totally tweaked in a horizontal placement after a fall". Like if you place the cam in a horizontal crack and take a fall the cables get bent. I don't mean a 5 foot pussy fall, but a 20 foot fall. I have a couple cams you can have that are totally fucked because of this. The placements were textbook, but the cables gote bent over the crack edge; howver, the edge was not rounded, but fairly angular. THis probably lead to more tweaking than would have occured if the crack was more rounded. Anyway to cjoo1f, my first leads were with saddle wedges, some hexes, a few wired old wildcountry stopers, and some slung BD nuts, and I even had a couple of those camlock crapy hex/stoper things and a couple forest t-nuts, but I never used them. Anyway cams are great I think we can all agree and as usually personal preferences vary widely, and climbers can argue with the best of them. Shapp out
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We were at smith the day it caught on fire several years ago. Next day we went to Wolf Rock and took a big whipper on one of the routes I think Bret Hall put up. On the way back down the hill I found a big old bag of nugs! On a non-climbing trip last year one of my co-workers found $1,400 and a bag of smack at a trailhead on the Snoqualmie river, turned it into the cops, he had to wait a while but ended up getting the money! no shiz story
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I have the directions to the crag and can email them to anyone that wants to see how to get there. I have no idea if there are routes there or if the rock is good, but I will check it out one of these days.
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Sorry, I ment the Rodchester may be too young to remember all of the badass hard free routes put up in the Valley and the Gunks with rigid friends.
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Rodchester may be to old to have used rigid freinds. He may be a techno geek. Don't believe everything you read. I agree with Bill Simpkins. I have climbed probably a couple hundred cracks with rigid friends and had zero problems. My rigid friends are probably 15 years old and still in great shape, but I have reslung them with webbing a couple times. Don't bash something until you have experience with it. I garuntee that you will be plenty happy with foreged friends. And unless you are climbing in the East, vertical placement are the norm in the Northwest. In addition, for the occasional horizontal placement the tie off actually works very good. It actually may be better then a cable stem since cord or webbing is going over the crack edge, but on a cable stem unit the cable will get bent all to shit after a fall, except for maybe aliens. But I can tell you from experience that trango and metolious cables get totally tweaked in a horizontal placement after a fall.
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Chances are that if you don't have a rack that you are a beginner. A full set of forged freinds and one sett of stoppers (they all work pretty good, mostly it is personal preference) will get you up most easy routes. When you have the money, get another full set of cams of your preference, I have a bunch of different kinds, including metolious, BD, wild country (forged and technical), and some old trango and spider cams and they all work pretty good.
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Always had a hankering to check out the northeastern spire at the base of big 4. Went flyfishing up on the upper Sauk by monte cristo road and the spire again called to me. Anyone every climbed on this and how is the rock?
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Can I try a free set, I promise to use and abuse them?
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Any one know of this place, maybe it needs a look http://fp2.centuryinter.net/billfire/1133crags-photo.htm
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I forgot to say that my 4cly 1997 tacoma gets 27 miles per gallon in the city and 29 on the highway, which blows chunks on any 6 cyl 4 wheel drive truck or SUV
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I have to say that jordop is smoking crack. Toyota, datsun, nissan have made small 4 cyl trucks for decades. In general they have a fine reputation. If you need power and need to haul heavy shit you aint even going to buy a 6 cyl tacoma. The only thing you can do with a 6cyl tacoma that you can't or shouldn't do much with a 4cyl is two a boat or tent trailer. I have had mine and put way over 100,000 with no problems. I have had the bed filled up with rafting gear and 4 people in the cab climbing up out of some remote river canyons up some steep grades for several miles with no problems. It aint a race car but moves along a lot faster than a geometro or my old VW bus.
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Toyotas are solid. All you need to do is take it to your local knuckle scraping mechanic if you think you really want to buy, pay them bout 50 bucks to check it all out and write something up to negotiate with the seller. I checked the blue book and if it is in top shape it is about like I thought, around $6,000. DO NOT PAY $9500. you can a newer rig with way less for that, as per my other post. If you do have $9500 to pay, you may want to consider buying a certified used truck from a toyota dealer. The certified used rigs often come with a very good waranty.
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It has been that price for many years.
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Way too much money. I bought a 1997 4 cyl with an extra cab in 2000 with 27,000 mi and paid 10,500. I don't know what the 1995 is worth, but you should check the bluebook at your bank or credit union (talk to a loan agent and they can book it out). I be it is around $6,000 if it is in really good shape). I have had excellent luck with my truck and have put over 100,000 miles on it with no problems.
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Dude you are wrong. As I suggested it is more than the boat rental per day. A one way portage is $25, so $50 smackers total, see the link http://www.rosslakeresort.com/info.html Word though on checking in and reserving the campsites cause you do need an individual permit for each night for each campsite.
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I know I may be riduculed, but the coleman 1 burner I have is great. A little heavier than say a whisperlite but not much. I am not sure of the model but it take multiple fules and folds up with the attache hose to the pump you screw into the fuel bottle. It was pretty cheap, I think about $50 bucks on sale and it has good temperature control, has never broken and I've had it for probably 5 years.
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If you are not planning to drive up through Canada then down to Hozameen I would rent a boat from the resort. If you are planning to go to Hozameen then find another deal. If your plan is to put in below ross dam, paddle up the few miles then portage around the dam then I would just rent from the Resort, because you will want the vehicle portage around the dam that the resort provides and it costs more doing the portage than it does to rent the boats from the Resort. Bottom line if you are starting from the bottom end of Ross lake, rent from the Resort, if you are putting in at Hozameen find another deal than the resort. I would lend you mine, but the canoe is booked every weekend with me until my ankle heals up and I'm able to climb. Have fun and don't forget the mosquito repellent?