shapp

Looks like mattp has redone his Darrington web page, looks better! and redone the topos, the print more clearly now. Great Job http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/

Vert, If you are who I think you are (from La Grande) you are one of the only climber out there who I respect. The other wankers that have to much time and battery power on ther hands are drilling way too much (i.e. the spring mountain bolt fest). I lived out there for quite a long while and did climbed a lot all over, including Duns Bluff, and interesting stuff up in the Elkhorns that you were a part of. Thanks for being a shining star, maybe some of the new beginers in that part of the state will have someone else to look up to besides steve and the walla walla mad driller.

No pro needed, all the routes are high ball problems, too bad the city won't install a 5 foot thick crash pad at the base. Howver, on a sunny saturday all the newbies out there could just give you one giant group spot!

I think there is more climbable rock in hells canyon than at Smith Rock, but good luck finding beta

Just got back from Darrington, had a D3 approach (for those who have read the new Rattle and Slime guide) and didn't even get off the road. I got stuck in snow about half way in my 2 wheel toyota pickup, but there were tracks a head. A spiffy SUV could go farther. Took me about 20 minutes to dig out, but the sun was out and the dog likes to role in the snow. It was impresive to see the first big blow out up the road! other than the blowouts are easily driveable in a two wheel rig, but low clearance cars may bump a few rocks. Saw a few folks up there driving around that were missing a few teeth, also found a nice dump pile at the end of the spur road that goes along the small pond. If I ever catch one of those toothless bastards dumping up there, he will meet his maker! With a few more days like today the road should be snow free. I guess I should have brought my skis Shap

Matt I know you know better, the stuff around the arch and farther south gets blazing sun in the morning to mid-afternoon. Just funnin- Cheers, thanks for the info

Anyone been up to 3 O'clock rock lately? any snow? how is the road? Might go up there tomorrow to check it out and climb if I can get to it and the sun is blazing.

The owner is John Jaqua (spelling may be wrong). He is a lawyer in Eugene and also owns the farm across the road from the Crag next to the River. This may not be the owner now since this beta is about 10 years old. Think twice before trespassing on land owned by a lawyer. However, the routes are good. There are some steep sport lines and some trad. Also there is some raptor nesting up on the Crag. You may be able to blackmail the owner for some access for this reason as the Local land managers may not like the route development near known Osprey nests.

As you are finding out the snowboard hard boot selection and binding selection are becoming very slim in the U.S. Bomber gear makes the best plate binding. I have ridden plates for a very very long time and just got a new pair of raichle's. Bomber gear is one of the only places left in the U.S. to find plate and racing stuff (no I don't work for them), but for using with the split board I would pick your favorite and most comfortable AT boot, but they will be more expensive than the snowboard hard boots on the market.

If you haven't noticed feet come in all shapes and sizes, mine fit the anasazi's like a glove. I actually have two pairs in two sizes, tight pair and a comfy pair. I hear a lot of talk about Boreal aces. I tried some on many years ago and they just didn't fit my feet. Like wise a lot of the Sportiva shoes don't fit me well either. Bottom line is don't listen to what shoe people tell you to buy, its the personal fit, workmanship quality, and rubber type that should drive the purchase so try on as many pairs as you can before you buy that all day alpine crack shoe

My 2 cent: the shoe does not matter for hand and bigger cracks as long as it is comfy and your toes must be flat with no crunching or crowding, this fit will give you the most comfort in hand and bigger cracks. The only other thing to consider is durability, obviously a stout leather boot will last longer than a slipper, but I still climb all cracks in a blown out old pair of 5.10 anaszi's (best show ever in my opinion cause the fit is so good for my foot shape). For finger cracks use slippers as many others have stated.

The only reason I can think of to get this monstrosity is for aiding in the crack "jumaring" fashion like cam hooks. But it is also simple to crack jumar with two or three cam sizes on each aider biner. I really can't see buying these for any reason.

sport slab: Hydrotube at Flagstone, Oregon trad: Hospital Corner at Spring Mt. Oregon pack animal, cruel sister, crack of infinity, kunza corner at smith chimney: epinepherine at Red Rocks, Nevada Mixed: explosive energy child at Smith

The only beta I want is once you get on the first pitch is route finding fairly straight forward without a topo and how loose is it? On a scale of 1 to 4, where 1 is solid bomb proof granite and 4 is pulling blocks off with serious potential of being hit or cutting the rope, 2 would be and some loose stuff, but can be avoided for the most part there is some chance of breaking a hold, 3 would be you will be knocking off holds, with moderate potential of being hit. In addition is there any natural gear placement opportunity on the route besides the bolts and if so, what size range/type.

I was surprised to see this route in the lates version of Rock and Ice. Is the cat out of the bag? Has anyone done this or know any thing about it?

looking to climb at D-town this summer. I've lived in WA for 3 years and haven't found a climbing partner yet. I have climbed at Darrington several times, but haven't done any of the really big routes yet. I need!!! a climbing partner for this summer. I lead 5.9 trad in relative comfort (I don't climb as much as I would like or used to) and have done a lot of aid, can follow anything you put up. Looking for someone to do Dreamer, blueberry, Combs routes, etc. May be Solaris too. PM me or email at jasonshappart2001@yahoo.com

Buy terrain navigator, it is about $140 for all of the WA and OR 15 and 7.5 minute quads, it is searchable and printable. There is an option to linke the quads together seemlessly so you can print a map that may actually be on 2 or 3 seperate quads. I have used it for years and it is the most invaluable piece of gear I own. You can make a map for just about any trip in about 10 or 15 minutes.

I am will to help too. I am available this sunday. Maybe we should recon the site on sunday and see what needs to be done as far as current slope stability and re-direction of runnoff away from the blow outs (if possible) 425-353-7451 or email at jasonshappart2001@yahoo.com

only one with a backhoe and front-end loader and some know how?

According to the Pro Mt. Sports website, they are closed on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. So I guess we have to wait until 11/12 to get the shizz on Darrington. Any more news on the road blow outs. If they are bad I suggest some one type a form letter, post it at CC.com so we can all sign it and send it to the Forest Service so they know how bad we want it fixed. If no one complains it won't be fixed in our life times. And no I am not volunteering to write the form letter, I think it should be from a long time local with history of the area. SHapp

Thanks to all for the info. I actually Tele just fine and also like to ride. I started snowboarding in about 1989 and tele skiing about 1993. Some days I feel in the mood to bend the knee and some days I feel the need to float high in some steep and deep Pow! I have a couple boards, nice avalanche and a 1995 Rossignol Race. The racing board I ride plates and it is flat on the back and is a surprisingly wide board and good in poweder but nice and stiff for hard pack and glacier shit. I thought I might chop it and turn it into a splitter and now I think that I will. Voile now makes some plates that tele boots fit into so that sounds like it will make for some pretty stable and comfy touring on the splitter for the days when my knees are tired. Cheers

Has anyone bought the Voile split board kit to convert a regular board to a split board. If so, how hard was it? Opinions? Thanks,

I understand Cliff Hedlund passed away in June of 2003. Does anyone know any details? My condolences to freinds and family. Shapp

Want to go climbing this saturday or sunday at Darrington, which ever day looks to be the best weather. Open to do most any routes, single pitch or swap leads up some larger stuff. PM me

Fejas, by defenition state lands are open to all non-motorized travelers, except if they are specifically closed for safety, such as a quarry site, or if certain uses are specifically prohibited for a particular site, such as non-motorized only. Since the crag appears to be at the opposite side from the the quarry I am sure access is no problem.