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Everything posted by shapp
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Leslie Gulch is not all that far in a relative sense, and there are a ton of other big spires along the Owyhee. I will be down on the Owyhee all next week with the wife. Be assured, while burns lacks the "culture" of the west side, outdoor pursuits are boundless.
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http://www.mattsea.com/Darr/ if it is dry, many 600 to 1000+ foot routes in the 5.8+ range
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Grades and Differences Erie vs Frenchmans
shapp replied to Pilchuck71's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
I think we may be twins and on the same schedule. I have had the same problem over the same timer period and am activly changing that. The only thing I have found is to climb as many 5.10 trad routes as possible every time I go out. -
or try the search function on CC-sparyers you lazy bastard Great Jiggly Tittlies: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/4074/filename/Spring%20Topos.pdf http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=905671 To reiterate, the area is not sport climbing, although there are a lot of bolts, nearly all pitches require trad gear, and 00 to #1 tcus, a few small tri cams and a few larger cams and stoppers are handy. with notable bigger gear needed on a few pitches
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I like to visit the big long arm on the northwestern side of banks lake to canoe camp. Non-designate camping around the boat launch on the west side and up along the shore where every you can paddle to that is flat enough for a tent. Lots of climbing and bouldering potential in that area. Watch out for poison oak/ivy though!
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[TR] Mountaineers Field Trip Attempt - 4/16/2010
shapp replied to Josh Lewis's topic in North Cascades
too bad it wasn't a female officer, that could have been hot!, a Chilli Peppers song comes to mind. -
[TR] Exfoliation Dome - Jacob's ladder 5/16/2010
shapp replied to benmurphy's topic in North Cascades
There are routes on it, but I don't know how to spell the name of the wall. -
As I have met you and somewhat understand your experience level (talked with you and sold you a few cams this winter). A word of constructive advice about Squire Creek Wall, to my knowledge all "easy routes" are significatly run-out. All modern routes have 5.10 plus climbing somewhere on the route. This is a big wall. Go climb a lot more of the trade multipitch routes at the standard darrington areas: G-Giant, Blueberry, 3Oclock, Roan Wall before heading up to squire. One good place to go would be to get on some mixed harder, but shorter multipitch at Spring Mountain to test the lead skills at the 5.10 level, where the approach and commitment level are several notches below Squire Creek. Good luck, once you become a legal adult, I would be more than happy to take you out on some Darrington multipitch. Your motivation and enthusiasm to get on long trade routes is inspiring, which I wish was the trend in more of the subadult climbers I observe on a regular basis at the local Everett plastic pulling venue of choice. I assure you however, that taking route one setp in difficulty and comittment at a time will ensure you have a long and enjoiyable trad climbing career.
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http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=905671
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what happens on 4:20 should never be photographed
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no insulation only a wicking mesh on the upper
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Thanks bro, am familiar with Riggins and other idaho limestone, unfortunately (fortunately?) I feel more comfortable in a 5.9 crack than a 5.11 sport climb. Can't hit the sawtooths on this trip, commitments before and after. Been there before though. I grew up climbing in oregon so choss is relative. I don't plan on doing the 350+ mile shuttle one way! Paying to have the rig shuttled is well worth it. Cheers, Shapp
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Bought these in the early 1990s, used some, mostly stored. Very good shape. 5.10 sticky rand/sturup. $40 OBO or trade for single stem .5 (purple) BD camalot in good shape. Size large, fits size 10.5 to about 12 mens very well. FYI size 10 is just a little to small to work well. jshappart at g mail dot com 425-353-7451 Located in Everett, work in N. Seattle for meet up too. Shapp
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better to start with the hand drill first so you think a bit more before you drill
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Of significant note is that nearly every pitch at Spring Mountain (WA) requires at least 1 or 2 pieces of trad gear. All lines were put up using natural gear where available. You should always carry 1 set of TCUs (00 to #2) and pink tricam and preferably double TCUs. This in addtion to a light rack. You need at least 1 #6 camalot to climb the offwidth, but 2 is better
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a possible new route to the far left side of solar slab terrace at RR. Climbed up the Solar Slab chimney system to find a fuck load of people on all the usual variations up. So we spied a "crack" far off to the left side of the terrace. Climbed it for 2 loose pitches to a big tree. No sign of any previous raps off the tree. We named it "Shapp-Lubbel Solar Fucked"
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after corresponding with John it appears there is an obvious classic 5.9 crack to be had a couple minutes up from the road. Will at least get on that. Oh we will be passing through on our way out from a 84 mile river trip through the Frank Church Wilderness of No Return.
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[TR] Darrington/Illusion Wall - The Holy Grail 2/21/2010
shapp replied to Wakaranai's topic in North Cascades
Merely an illusion, or did they move the Island! -
is this a first hand recommendation or info gleaned from Pogue's website
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Was up at 3 oclock rock, last saturday, and obseved a big hanging snowfield still present above blueberry terrace.
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So I hear tell of some multipitch cracks near manning bridge up the salmon river east of Riggins. We drew a permit for the main salmon river float for the end of August and would like to sample some of the climbing for a day after the take out at Carey Creek. If you know of this climbing area please pm me a couple details to get me on some climbs. Thanks, Shapp
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Rockey Reach Around!
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Crack of Infinity, Smith (a climb I love to do over and over again for some reason)