shapp

Somehow IB gets bashed a lot whereas Darrington bolted routes are well-loved. Setting aside the anti-bolt nazi movement, the objections to IB fall into several classes. 1 - It is in wilderness. Darrington is not. Mt Index is not (correct me if I'm wrong). 2 - It is reported to have been created top-down. Most Dtown routes were put up on lead. Sounds like the Index one is ground up too. 3 - The bolt placement is not to the liking of some parties (too close in places and missing an anchor up high). Dtown bolts are not quite as close as IB. No idea what's going up on Index. That's about it. People will spray all kinds of venom, but it mostly just covers these same points over and over again. ZZZZZZZ. I've climbed IB and enjoyed it. My concerns fall under 1 and 3. Not that I particularly care either way, but to correct this: A lot of Darrington vicinity bolted climbing areas are in the Wilderness. Most of the modern routes have been put up Top down.

Third pitch crack to be done after I get my dam bathroom remodel done!

Please disregard the comments of no good granite climbing along the main salmon rafting run from Corn Creek to Carey creek and along the shuttle road out to Riggins. There are several quality looking lines and we climbed 2 of them, both excellent hand cracks. The hand crack a couple hundred yards west of marsters bridge and 50 yards off the road was totally great 3 stars, would be 4 stars if the last little bit was cleaned. This climb woud have a line to lead it if it were at Index or Leavenworth. Unfortunately the camera was out of batteries.

Regarding the spicey third pitch, I have never heard the phrase "f*ck Packard" uttered more continuously in my entire life (referent to the person that put up that pitch on lead)repeated near continuously as Hanman lead the pitch. I must say that Mr. Packard must have exhibited great style when bolting that thing on lead. I don't have the stones myself to take potential 40 footers on that cheese grater rock. That pitch is solid 5.10 (5.9+ it says on the original trip report, sand bag yo! on unusual rock that if you don't choose the right foot placement carefully is pretty slippery. Props to Packard for the FA and for Hanman for dropping Mr. Murphy and I a rope so we could proceed further upward. Regarding gear for the 1st crack, I was glad I had and used 2 #3's, 1 #4 (new style), 1 #4.5 (old style), and 1 #5 (new style) camalots in additionn to the smaller gear. That is a great long! crack, defenitley an endureo pitch this several fun and well protected cruxes. Although to have crack love enjoyment, it must be dry. The first time I tried to climb it, it was pretty wet, muddy hand jams are best left to anal necropheliacs. I am looking forward to Pervert Stew on saturday, though

Do not camp beyond olney pass for sure.

all the little 5.12+ mutant kids at the Everett gym climb at Equinox, no it aint split rock

Calendar Butte is about another 20 minute walk and has several established routes that have fallen back to moss.

It would be nice if first, you indicated where you were coming from, and secondly for people to know in which direction what is from where Spring Mountain is north west of La Grande. If you are coming from the west (driving East on I-84) you will pass very near the crag (about nine miles from I-84 off the Mt. Emily Summit Road). If you want to rock climb, that is by far the most documented, easiest to reach, with highest concentration of climbs and shortest approach. Do bring your trad rack, there are tons of great cracks there, as well as very very very very very well protected sport and what should actually be mixed routes Also good camping. If you did make the detour to the Anthony Lakes area, you will spend most of the time driving and hiking, not climbing, but it is a great area to check out, especially for future turns. I would recommend BC skiing in the Elkhorns before the Eagle Caps, less people, killer snow, shorter approach. Another diversion wouuld be high valley outside Union. There are a couple great, but short routes, the best crack route being Do or Fly in my opinion. Excellent and enjoyable lead. Hit in the morning or evening, watch for rattlers. Another more adventurous option would be to go to the Elgin wall to climb some 5.10 and up crack (pm for details if you choose such), which is also not very far off your path on the way between la Grande and Enterprise. Also the Wallowa Lake Dihedrals/Green stone is not far out of the way either for some couple pitch mixed routes, which have in all likelihood deteriorated into moss matts (can anyone confirm?) since I was there last a decade ago. Shapp

Trip: N. Umpqua River - Dilley's Delight on Old Man Date: 7/18/2010 Trip Report: Proof that the Creator is infatuated with the male form, a finer example there never was than the Old Man pinnacle. I have thought about climbing the Old Man Rock ever since I first saw it as a kid fishing along the N. Umpqua River. Never got around to it until Sunday 7/18/10. Went down there for a bachelor party to do some rafting and kayaking on the N. Umpqua. Had a booze cruz on Segments 1 and 2 on Saturday, had fun surfing the new kayak, partied it up at Horseshoe Bend on Saturday night with whiskey, gin, rum, beers, etc., fat Rib eyes, passed out in the woods. Best quote from Saturday night (as best as I can recall) “You guys should put some Whiskey on your salad, its great! [repeated several times in a row]”. Got up the next morning and grubbed up and headed out for the climb, not really hung over at all luckily. I found the route info in Greg Orton’s Umpqua area climbing guide and also from a route description on Summit Post from rpc for Dilley’s Delight (2 pitch 5.9). The only other route to the summit is a 4 pitch 5.11+ bolted route, which looks striking! I hope to clear up some mistaken info from both the summit post and Orton’s guide book description. First, the photo topo on the version of Orton’s book I have is not correct, here is a corrected version (pic poached from Ortons CC-sprayers gallery): Secondly the route description in both accounts does not highlight the loose nature of Pitch 1 (and this is coming from someone who grew up climbing Oregon choss). Orton suggests belaying from the tree at the notch between Old Man and Old Woman. That might have been good 5 or 6 years ago, but now the tree/branches have grown too large, which would significantly interfere with a belay. Best to scramble above the tree and sling the big boulder/horn with a large cordelette, or the end of the climbing rope as we did. Pitch 1 scrambles up a 30 foot right trending low-angle vegetated ramp to a wide-ish crack. You could either climb the crack or traverse farther right to a very very dirty and what looked to be very minimally protected gully/groove system (Orton’s guide describes climbing the crack, but the topo shows going into the groove). We chose the crack. The first 15 feet of the crack is fairly solid and not too dirty, about 5.6. A #5 camalot (new size) starts things out with another 1.5 to 2 inch cam higher up. Then the crack turns into more of a large flake that is basically large stacked blocks. They are all pretty creaky. You can get hand size gear in there, but I wouldn’t want to fall on the second half of Pitch 1. Luckily it is only about 5.4 or 5.5. Be very careful on what you step and pull on and tread lightly! Head straight up to the large notch for the belay. Real nice crack in the notch that takes yellow TCU up to about Green or Red camalots. Pitch 2 is the money pitch, well protected with natural gear and interesting climbing. The few bolts described on Summit Post are gone (and not needed), except for the final bolt at the traverse. From the belay step right and up on a large block to the pretty clean hand crack (extremely clean compared to P1). Orton’s guide calls this a finger/hand crack. It is locking hand jams, with 1 final finger lock, then a longish reach to a face hold jug and up to easier terrain. This first 15 feet is solid and steep 5.8 crack climbing and very well protected. Red/gold camalots are great here. After the first crack, easy low fifth class ledges for another 20 feet up to the second hand crack (red and gold work great). Crank this crack, which is again a nice steep and solid 5.8 and totally enjoyable for another 15 feet, up to a final good jam, reach over and clip the bolt on the face to the right and contemplate (as you get pumped) how you will manage the 6 foot traverse to a low angle gully/chimney without any good foot holds or hand holds to speak of with good lichen coverage. I thought about employing the “flying camel” move developed by old Darrington hard men, but thought better and grabbed the draw and swung over easily (I am going to guess the French free option is a pretty common choice here). Climb the final gully/chimney for another 20 feet to the top (low fifth), placed 1 #4.5 older size camalot here. Chains up on top and to the left of the chimney exit. 1 double rope and free hanging rap back down to the notch where you started from. The wind was up pretty good blowing east, blowing our ropes over to the steep north east side of the crag. There are a fair number of horns on that face, and our rope had a few snagles, might want to watch/be aware of this. Don’t let the Pitch 1 deter you. I thought Pitch 2 was well worth the outing if you like interesting crack climbing. Gear Notes: Gear: double ropes, full single set of cams from blue TCU to #5 camalot, couple extra in the green, red and gold camalot size. 10 runners are ample Approach Notes: The current approach is on the Umpqua Trail from the West as Soda Springs Dam access is closed while they build a fish ladder. Park at Marsters Bridge and hike the N. Umpqua Trail for about 2.75 miles to Eagle Creek, just east of the river gage station/cable crossing. Hike up the west side of Eagle Creek for about 100 feet and pick up the very well worn climbers trail. Total hike is about 2.9 miles on mostly flat trail until the final short climb up to the crag, took about 1 hour.

You need to change your name to Old Dirty!

How long does this approach take? Planning on climbing Dilley's Delight when I'm down that way for some boating. Thanks, Shapp

Checat, Don't draw me into this crap. This has degenerated into something of a massive waste of space. I don't really give a fudge about what you call the Garden. I have merely pointed out that several of us climbed out there in the early 1990s, I am not sure of what we called it then, but it wasn't the Garden. I am not a boulderer. I am a climber.

Also of note, all pro bolts and rap stations have modern hardware now.

Trip: Darrington - Silent Running Date: 7/3/2010 Trip Report: Darrington Change up. Was going to go up to Spring Mt. (WA) on Saturday to belay Old Dirty on the 5.hard second pitch of rolling thunder, top-rope the new line left of Romantica (as yet unnamed wet dream) which follows just to the right of the waterfall (killer awesome position) to see where appropriate and necessary bolt placement might be, and work on a third pitch crack to that route. It was cloudy and misty, so we stopped to say hi to the Hanman family and see their new domicile that is even closer to Darrington than the previous pad. Checked out the wood-fired hot tub in the works, and potential for sheep or goats in the back yard. Finally took off, and got up to Spring Mt. parking spot at about 10:00. It was raining. Noted that back down the road, the turn off up Clear Creek was dry, so we turned around and headed for Three Oclock rock. Made it up to 3 oclock rock by about noon. Was going to get on Stance or Dance, but it was wet. Went over to Total Soul/Silent Running and the first pitch of Silent Running was dry. Snow Slogger Dan is new to slab climbing so we talked him into leading pitch 1 of Silent Running. He did fine. During Dan’s lead, Hanman and family along with Gunnery Sergeant James, came up carrying full packs for some overnights at Squire Creek pass, WTF are you guys doing up here was exclaimed followed by hugs and groping by Gunny. Yelled up to Dan, second pitch looks dry now, we are going up. Racked up, threw on coats, grabbed water, etc. etc. Fun times. Made it up all the pitches, including bonus pitch 7. I got to lead Pitch 3, 5, and 7. Loved the hard bonus 7 pitch. Glad old dirty talked me into the lead. Got down to the truck and had a couple beers before dark. No camera, so no pics. Threatened rain all day, but got back without getting wet. Bonus pitch 7 should not be missed, the extra gear you need to bring up to lead this pitch is well worth the effort. A brush might be nice on this pitch, it’s a bit dirtier than below. I guess 5.10b slab deters a few folks. However, the pro on this pitch is overall much more ample than the preceeding pitches. Gear Notes: small rack, double tcus in grey, purple and blue then standard rack to 3 inch. Approach Notes: 3 oclock rock via spring mt.

I would like a copy but aint driving to Bellevue, any other options?

I like color naked photos of hot rasta women bouldering. I like an index that includes not only routes but crag names and significant place/feature names. What I do not like are acknowledgements praising jesus for inspiration for writing, what in actuality is in fact a piss poor book.

People have been out there several times this year. You need 2 ropes to rap from fixed belays. Note that for the most part, newer long routes around Darrington, pitches are put up with 60 m and the preference is generally to make pitches as long as possible given good belay stances. 30 seconds on google: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/darrington/106257989 http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/08/081_Shorts2.html buy the updated rattle and slime CD, haven't seen it but I understand and assume there should be some good info and probably topo of the route.

Actually I think they are in the hiking hotspring book, The smaller one is Rye Grass hot spring located on the other side of the river from Rye Grass Crossing, and Greely Bar hotspring is the bigger one. I actually do have some climbing plans for next year to do about a 5 pitch route on the big tooth-loocking pinnacle in this photo (scoped it quite substantially this year. additional pic from 2008:

Fore sure, TR posted, send me an email next spring for a reminder jshappart at g mail d o t c o m

Trip: something other than hood - lower Owyhee - Rome to Birch Creek Date: 6/13-17/2010 Trip Report: Lower Owyhee River - Rome to Birch Creek (48.5 miles) 1200 cfs at launch, 800 cfs at take out, June 13 - 17, 2010. 113 miles SE of Burns! Me, wife, and dog loving life. Pictorial trip report, highlights included tire bloat out followed by 4 new tires from Less's place in La Grande installed in less than 20 minutes, 2 hots springs, several fun rapids, a big hail storm and flash flood in the creek next to the Teepee, big leg bone fossil found, great dutch oven cooking (pizza, tamale pie, etc.). I love SE Oregon 1 Gear Notes: Aire 14' purple people pleaser, dutch oven, beer, Teepee Approach Notes: Toyota and 1,350 miles round trip

Is the weight that significant of a differnence, your weight varies more than that depending on weather you just took a crap or not.

Well maybe he could find an old blue binder that used to be kept at the outdoor program, by the way, its now EOU and has been since 1998 when my wife graduated there. The blue binder had a bunch of hand written notes of climbing all over the place out there but has mysteriously disappeared

No this is the lower owyhee river upstream of Lake Owyhee. about 20 milss up river from Leslie gulch. I am off for a 5 day float trip (through some of the most amazing desert in Oregnon, hot springs, etc.) on the Owyhee tomorrow morning. Should have a bunch of photos when I return. Shapp

ps. those walls in the bottom pics are many hundreds of feet tall

be careful, the east side is dangerous, you might just find your self staying for many years and getting hitched, at least that is what happend to me.