shapp

Word!

please addess the question of your potential parentage.

Did you climb the Rash, why no pics upclose of the 2nd pitch biznitch? You look like you could be Whitelaws love child! Nice work Shapp

Bonerlishes! I also like the part about a "reach around" in the TR. Badass. Last time I was at Wolfy a decade ago I found a jar of weed on the approach!

Yesterday (October 6, 2009) Jeremy the "the rope-gun Kid" from Everett Vertical World (belayed by fat, but continuing to slim-down, bastard) freed the very steep second pitch of Rolling Thunder after a short fall on the first attempt and a little scrubbing (i.e. removing large moss chunks from key holds. He gives it about 11a. This is not your mothers Darrington slab climb. Props to Mr. Greyell for bolting it. It is pretty clean, but a little more brushing would help. All bolted, but a red camalot is helpful for a the first piece above the belay. Head out left to first bolt, then traverse right, at the steep crux bulge, go up/slightly left (ignore the single bolt out right). Have fun. Shapp

Midget and Gimpy go Ho baggin? Nice, good to see you gettin out! Shapp p.s. tell Gimpy I still have his sheep.

Sorry about the dangly dicks and anal penetration comment, I do not mean to degrade your sexual proclivities. Origional edited for nice factor below: Again some young Portlanders have driven a long way following the Falcon Guide book without the forethought of bringing an actual map of the area. The Ruef and Bolf guide book is totally inaccurate for the area. Lees peak is to the east and Lakes Lookout is to the west. You were on Lakes Lookout Peak in the dark, not Lees Peak. Angel Peak is back behind (southeast of Lees Peak, up in Angel Basin). Climbers have been visiting this area on a regular basis since the 1970s, and it has received at least 2 write-ups in Climbing Magazine, although not in recent times. Thousands of people ski Anthony Lakes each year and many descents are made of the Lees Peak coulior each year. Reuf and Bolf identified the Lees Peak slab as "free ride to heaven" in the Falcon guide. To the best of my knowledge, this name was totally fabricated by them. Dave Jensen climbed that route back in the early 1970s and suspects others climbed it before him. It is locally known by several names, Lees Peak slab, Couloir or Ramp. Good on you for getting out there. The old rusty stuff you found to the north (left) of Lees Peak Slab is probably left over from Dave Jensen, he put up a few lines out there in the 1970s too, which have fallen into obscurity. There are many larger granite crags in NE Oregon to explore though for a 5.5 hour drive from PDX.

Maybe Eddy Cupp (spelling?) or associates there of? I have heard he used to climb up that way but recieved a head injury sometime in the 1980s or early 1990s while climbing in Darrington I think (not sure of the exact story time line) and since has abandoned the sport

I think the first mistake was associating with a frenchman; secondly I would recommend taking a certain Darrington midget to lead all the pitches. Shapp

Buy rattle and slime, if you already have it, there is a good labeled topo

No those rocks were there in early August, the newer big rockfall occurred to the west of the illusion wall, over the ledge system, between the illusion wall and the lower approach slabs on the trail before one reaches the illusion wall on the approach.

Photo of portion of black gully of death, left side of photo. Note nice white fresh rocks stacked in the gully, Yikes!

I might also add I heard through the grape vine that a very large rock fall occurred that would have obliterated anyone approaching in the section of the traverse between the approach slabs and the edge of the illusion wall. This occurred subsequent to your August ascent.

To any that wish to follow, the Black Gully of Death is so named for a reason. There is significant rock fall down this gully on a regular basis. Sweet photos!

Wholly sheep balls, I just watched the video after getting home from work. I vote this as the funiest climbing video of the year. Bouldering with the pistola is high-larious. Protection in cat-county high-larious, not that I am against guns or hunting (I am all for that) but you got more chance of accidently shooting yourself with your own side arm or getting shot by a hunter than being attacked by a Cougar, and a much greater chance of dying in a car reck than any of these other chances. I worked in the woods for several years all over NE Oregon in the most remote nooks and crannies and only saw 1 cougar, and only 2 in my life, although I know many more went unseen, Although the 2 legged kind can be seen regularly at the Trop or Benchwarmers! Tip on the climbing vid - more climbing. Stay safe. Shapp

I used to live about 15 minutes away, and I have climbed there innumerable times and lead all the cracks below 5.11 (by no means claiming FAs), Only thing worth shooting is rattlers, which are abundant at that spot, of which I encountered more than once at the top of a route while leading. My favorite route is Do or Fly, excellent route, too bad it is so short. If I were you I would get thee hence to Dunns Bluff for some climbing exploration and grouse blasting opportunities before the snow flies (up straight north of Moss Springs for 3.2 miles as the crow flys, along the western edge of the Little Minam Canyon, get the Mt. Fanny USGS 7.5 min topo). Approach by parking at a spot dirrectly west of the small swamp shown on the map, hike over and round to the North then drop down to the bottom of the cliff and proceed south along the cliff to scope potentials, its way bigger than 35 feet tall. Now you owe me a beer Shapp

I have climbed at mokeluia (spelling?) on Oahu, a little trad but mostly bolt sport on basalt. Mostly 5.10 and above, with a couple easier. Pretty fun for a full day. It is up on the North shore and overlooks the beach where they filmed the crash scene for Lost. PM and I can give some beta. Shapp

Good on you for getting out there, but please let other know the correct names of the peaks

NE Oregon Rocks! please respect the area by learning the history and proper peak names. I would support a guide by Vert and contribute all of my NE Oregon info, which he probably already knows anyway.

Quick note: Scared: I was there when it was EOSC, didn't attend, wife did. I respect your FA and all your climbing that lead the way for others, but still think the route is not worth a 4.5 hour drive from PDX going to Alaska this morning, more banter latter Shapp

... then send the F-ing authors your rant and don't piss on the TR here because your pissed that they got it wrong - so what! at least it is getting climbed - this obscure shit probably has seen fewer ascents than some of pdx's local crags have. i understand your point is to educate others but do it off the thread and don't knock 'em just because they used a guidebook that had it wrong... it'll be another few years before anyone else goes to climb it in the summer again anyway... I would send the Authors my 20 page correction of the book, but can't seem to find an address anywhere (I have tried). Sent it to Falcon with no reply. Your post above is spoken like a true ignorant west sider, Lee's Peak ramp is climbed every summer, and skied countless times in the winter. Climbers from EOU Outdoor Program and such climb it, and climbed it plenty before there was a guide. The approach is pretty much self explanitory if you ever ski at Anthony Lakes. Any given sunny weekend you might find some EOU climbers on Slabs up around Hoffer Lakes. Maybe you didn't notice anyone there when you went cause it was too early in the year! duh, they probably didn't write that in the guidebook for you to follow though. All the EOU kids were at Hells Canyon then. You could have PMed me about climbing out that way, and I would have hooked you up with some goods, like many others who have PMed me over the years, but I guess that is out of the cards. I will give you one tip though, don't bother with the drive out for Gunsight Peak. P.S. Bill is hot!

Intersting peak name, is it a rocky member of the Leporidae family (stone rabbit), or a toking monk (stoner abbit)?

In all seriousness, it is hard to imagine how so many mistakes in the NE Oregon section were made, many were obviously not typos, but total lack of research on easily obtained documentation, such as USGS 7.5 minute topos, 2 issues of Climbing Magazine, or how about just asking around at the ski area? See map below for future reference. Good for you guys in getting out there, that part of Oregon is a very special place to a lot of folks, including me p.s. If you study this map, you might find other objectives to visit of which will remain unnamed.

It started raining as we rapped Rolling Thunder.

Again a bunch of youngins f-ed in the ass by the piece of shit falcon guide, RuefF and Bolf have long dangly cocks f-ing every want-to-climb granite west-sider. Lees peak is to the east and Lakes Lookout is to the west. You were on Lakes Lookout Peak in the dark, not Lees Peak. Angel Peak is back behind (southeast of Lees Peak, up in Angel Basin, which is routinely skied in the winter by bespeckled bearded guys toking J's every powder day in winter. Every 10 year old kid that skis at Anthony Lakes, and every 14 year old that routinely skis/boards Lees Peak slab on any given Saturday during the winter knows this. Fucking-A carry and read the USGS 7.5 minute quad. And the dumb ass jesus freak guide book authors made up their own name for the ramp on Lees Peak that you climbed which is not called "free ride to heaven" by anyone but them, except I guess for those that wasted cash on their book that don't know any better. Dave Jensen climbed that back in the early 1970s and suspects others climbed it before him. It is locally known by several names, Lees Peak slab, Coulier or Ramp, that is all. Shapp p.s. this rant is not directed at you, but the dumb ass authors of the piece of shit guide The old rust stuff you found to the north (left) of Lees Peak Slab is probably left over from Dave Jensen, he put up a few lines out there in the 1970s too, which have fallen into obsurity. Consider yourself educated and spread the word.