BillA

Jeff Walker, Marcus and I got out today and climbed Gathering Storm. It was totally sweet, one of the longest routes in the Gorge. It's definitely in, but a little bit wet. Hopefully Marcus will post some pictures. Today was Jeff's 100th day climbing outside this year! Sweet! A note about The Deer Hunter: I bolted the first pitch rope solo in the late spring/early summer this year. Marcus and I went up in late June, cleaned up the route and worked out the moves. It makes a really fun little drytooling excursion that's worth doing even if there is no ice. Also, if you're gunning for the second pitch, don't expect to find WI5. Did anyone else get out today? This freeze is awesome!

Pete! Nate and I drove through the gorge this morning on the way back from Montana. Things are starting to come in really nicely, nothing looked ready yet, but if the forecast holds it should be good to go in the next couple days...

Seriously? Rock and Ice and climbing are crap. As far as advertising creating climbing communities, that makes no sense. The internet, for better or worse (probably worse), has much more to do with modern climbing communities than anything else.

I think Scott Semple is right on. Is Sponsorship a Sin?

Carver Cliff About a month ago I replaced the first two bolts on Smerk and the anchor at the top of the crack to the right (the anchor most people traverse over to when they climb Smerk).

I wish I would have taken some pictures inside the couloir, but I was a little preoccupied. As per John's suggestion I would definitely say go a few weeks earlier than I did if you want to hit it as all snow. The couloir was the technical crux, but not the mental crux, which I believe was the massive amount of exposed, loose, grovel climbing involved. As far as my route through the lower section, I'm not really sure. I wandered around through some gullies, chimneys, steep schwacking, etc. looking for the path of least resistance. I switched in and out of rock shoes twice and was able to keep the climbing to around 5.6/5.7. I descended the East ridge, sorry about the typo! I had a picture on my cell phone from somewhere on the internets with the Dougs Direct route marked and I used that without any issues to get over Mixup, it's pretty straight forward. Didn't see any bears this trip, but earlier this summer my buddy and I saw a rather large black bear on the Cascade River Road right before the Eldorado trailhead. It would be pretty awesome to see a grizzly in the Cascades...

Yeah dude, thanks for doing that! Now twitter that shit braaaah!

My travel plans changed a little bit and now I'm in the Denver area without a climbing partner. The weather forecast isn't that great, but would like to try to make some climbing plans for RMNP for the 17th-18th if anyone is in the area. Let's talk! Shoot me a PM or call my cell 503-201-4167.

This is a prime example of why there should be no commenting on trip reports.

Funny you should mention re-bolting at carver, we are on it. Will keep folks updated.

I would say the rock quality ranges from really bad to absolutely horrendous with really short sections of alright. I think the couloir is definitely the more aesthetic/logical line. I also found it to be the most enjoyable section, even if it was a bit sketchy.

Trip: Johannesberg Mountain - NE Buttress- Solo Date: 7/17/2009 Trip Report: On Friday and Saturday I climbed the NE Buttress of Johannesberg. It was "fun". At the titanium pin I didn't like the looks of the exposed rotten 5.3 chimney, so I rapped into the slightly intimidating looking couloir. In the couloir I found five melted out mixed steps including a little sting in the tail chockstone near the top that barely went at about M6ish. The very tenuous snow that led up to the chockstone collapsed as I pulled over the overhang, so I don't think it would go now. If you climb the route this season, I recommend not going this way. I bivyed below the snow arete. What an awesome location. I didn't bring a sleeping bag, just a bivy sack. It was a little chilly, but not bad. The descent down the west ridge is long and tedious. The rap anchors are all good, I replaced the tat on a couple of them. The hike over Mixup is demoralizing and seemed to take forever. I got to my van around 9:30 Saturday night and promptly passed out until Sunday morning. Couloir Bivy Snow Arete Obligatory summit parking lot shot Gear Notes: No stove, found (barely) enough water on route, two tools Approach Notes: Easy

:rawk: :brew:

No problem, I think this is an interesting discussion...

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Nice work John, that's a fine first trip to the AK Range!!

Nice pictures! My buddy and I did the circumnavigation going clockwise in March. It was an awesome trip, we were really stoked. There are some pics from our trip here if you're interested.

Tollhouse? It's always dry there brah!

I know it's a total long shot, but if anyone has a spare Nomic pick in the Portland area they'd be willing to part with that would be awesome, give me a ring. Thanks. Bill 503-201-4167

Thanks for the info guys, I am making inquiries.

That's rich!

Anyone know a good one in the Portland area? I'm in the market...

Good work dudes, looks awesome!

Also, make sure you know your four basic responsibilities, carry seven different cell phones, AT LEAST two GPS units, an MLU and a black lab. If you follow all of these rules you might just live.