BillA

Thank YOU Tyler for all the hard work you've put in. You've revived many forgotten classics that would have otherwise languished in obscurity, leeper hangers and all.

Thanks for the info guys! I agree Bill, $30 seems like too much. The prices you linked to on the Liberty outlet site are actually pretty good I think. It seems like a lot of places claim to carry the Ushba pins, but if you contact them they don't actually have them in stock. No specific projects planned, just looking around for general alpine use. Graham, a text is on the way...

It seems like it's gotten really hard to find ti pins. Just out of curiosity, what's the most people would pay for a titanium KB or LA?

Found a backpack with various climbing gear in it left at the base of Giant's Staircase/The Sickle. Describe it and we can figure out someplace to meet.

Hey, if anyone here is into paragliding, I would really like to talk to you. Please send me a PM if you get the chance, thanks!

Chris- Yes, I was definitely going a little crazy, glad I finally got to get out, looks like you did too! John- Friday afternoon we leisurely headed up glacier basin and over St. Elmos and camped on the Winthrop. Saturday we made our way to thumb rock, which is deceptively far. Sunday morning at 11:00am we topped out the ridge with the intention of going all the way back to the car, but the weather had other plans. Twenty foot visibility, no depth perception and blowing winds, I almost walked off Russel Cliffs. After that we decided to hunker down and spent a miserable fourteen hours in a mega mid until things cleared up Monday morning, then we headed down. I think it's entirely reasonable with the condition the approach and route are in right now, if things don't change much, to make it to thumb rock on the first day and then climb the route and descend the second day. Perhaps it's even reasonable to do it in a push right now for those fit enough?

Trip: Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge Date: 6/27/2010 Trip Report: Matt M and I climbed Liberty Ridge this weekend. It's in great shape. Firm snow all the way on the approach, on route it was perfect for step kicking. Get after it! No pics, sorry. I'm posting this as we camped on the Winthrop right over St. Elmos Pass and some jackass(es) left a whole bunch of trash and literal shit all over the place. You're seriously going to take a dump, bother to put it in a blue bag and then leave the bag sitting there? Bad form. Otherwise it was a fantastic weekend to be out.

Everyone involved with those shennanigans deserves a cock punch.

Selected Climbs mentions there's a more direct route to Sahale Arm from the parking lot than doing the endless switchbacks. I can't picture it right now, has anyone taken this route? Is finding it pretty obvious? Thanks!

Thanks for the info guys, interesting.

I'd be interested in seeing your source for that Joseph...

Seriously John? The most assanine thread on this website? Not even close. Anyone who doesn't think new ownership will change the culture of the company is delusional. They moved production to China a couple of years ago because they want to "compete globally". That's great they have their own facility there and everything, but that doesn't change the fact that they now have a factory in a country with an atrocious human rights and environmental records. I don't care if their factory is 100% on the level, by moving there they are supporting Chinese policies, and the Chinese economy at the detriment of ours. And now they get bought out by some guys who KNOWINGLY sold defective body armor to law enforcement and our military? Why would I ever want to support those people? That's great BD is keeping the same employees, I hope their quality control stays the same, but I'm guessing the realities of being a publicly traded company will change things. Anyway, I'll vote with my dollars and not support treasonous war profiteers, thanks.

Nice! I didn't know you had climbed that one...

Brad Englund route?? Whose pic is that?

It was a great route! Highly recommended, although I would probably try to find a window with a little colder temps or overcast skies as it is essentially a garbage chute and gets immediate morning sun. This was my third attempt at climbing the Black Spider and Dustin's first time climbing Hood. Not bad! We approached via the Tilly Jane Trail and bivyed at 7,500', carried over, descended the South side and did the car shuttle thing.

Went there for the first time in January and definitely found the approach to MG to be quite a bit quicker than anything else we did. The other routes we did looked significantly closer to the road than they were. Cody is pretty rad though.

A couple more pictures from the Concerto and a few words can be found here if anyone is interested: http://postjock.wordpress.com/2010/03/08/dean-fry-and-smith-rock-grade-vii/

Nice job boys!

Shit Nate, that's a nice birthday present. Motherfuckers. Were you parked on Stark or at the boat or something?? That blows.

I too met cord man at Smith last weekend. He was even wearing corduroy pants! He was one of the most stoked people I've ever met, you can't help getting psyched talking to him. Rock on with your bad self cord man!

I was very happy to clip the anchors on Methuselah's Column. I found the climbing to be bold and scary even with modern sticky rubber and 1/2" bolts. Very, very impressive considering Dean did the FA 37 years ago and on lead! And I was scared just belaying the A4 pitch on CL Concerto. Most impressive aid lead I've seen: loose, hollow mud nailing (yeah Tyler!). And again, Dean did it almost 40 years ago! He was the man!!

Haha, you're right, it IS country hand jive jubilee! A quality name for an extremely high quality route!

"Nate Farr's all-star hand jive jubilee" is probably my favorite.

Yeah, Ryan is a badass. When you onsite M10+ and have repeated many of the hardest mixed routes in the world, those M6's and 7's at Cascade probably don't feel all that hard.

Does anyone have information they can share on climbing in Eastern Tibet? I have Nakaruma's book "East of the Himalayas", which has maps and good info and stuff, but I can't find anything online about logistics regarding permits, liason officer requirements, any travel restrictions on Tibet, etc. Thanks for any info you might have!