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BillA

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Everything posted by BillA

  1. My travel plans changed a little bit and now I'm in the Denver area without a climbing partner. The weather forecast isn't that great, but would like to try to make some climbing plans for RMNP for the 17th-18th if anyone is in the area. Let's talk! Shoot me a PM or call my cell 503-201-4167.
  2. This is a prime example of why there should be no commenting on trip reports.
  3. Funny you should mention re-bolting at carver, we are on it. Will keep folks updated.
  4. I would say the rock quality ranges from really bad to absolutely horrendous with really short sections of alright. I think the couloir is definitely the more aesthetic/logical line. I also found it to be the most enjoyable section, even if it was a bit sketchy.
  5. Trip: Johannesberg Mountain - NE Buttress- Solo Date: 7/17/2009 Trip Report: On Friday and Saturday I climbed the NE Buttress of Johannesberg. It was "fun". At the titanium pin I didn't like the looks of the exposed rotten 5.3 chimney, so I rapped into the slightly intimidating looking couloir. In the couloir I found five melted out mixed steps including a little sting in the tail chockstone near the top that barely went at about M6ish. The very tenuous snow that led up to the chockstone collapsed as I pulled over the overhang, so I don't think it would go now. If you climb the route this season, I recommend not going this way. I bivyed below the snow arete. What an awesome location. I didn't bring a sleeping bag, just a bivy sack. It was a little chilly, but not bad. The descent down the west ridge is long and tedious. The rap anchors are all good, I replaced the tat on a couple of them. The hike over Mixup is demoralizing and seemed to take forever. I got to my van around 9:30 Saturday night and promptly passed out until Sunday morning. Couloir Bivy Snow Arete Obligatory summit parking lot shot Gear Notes: No stove, found (barely) enough water on route, two tools Approach Notes: Easy
  6. :rawk: :brew:
  7. No problem, I think this is an interesting discussion...
  8. This is a nationally recognized program that trains participants to respond to emergencies in remote settings. The 80-hour curriculum includes standards for urban and extended care situations. Special topics include but are not limited to: wound management and infection, realigning fractures and dislocations, improvised splinting techniques, patient monitoring and long term management problems, up-to-date information on all environmental emergencies, plus advice on drug therapies. Emphasis is placed on prevention and decision-making, not the memorization of lists. This course is designed specifically to provide you with the tools to make critical medical and evacuation decisions in remote locations. Half of your time will be spent completing practical skills, case studies and scenarios designed to challenge your decision making abilities. The WMI Adult and Child CPR is included in the course. June 12-21 at Mt. Hood Community College. Call 503.491.7353 or wfr@mhcc.edu for more information.
  9. Nice work John, that's a fine first trip to the AK Range!!
  10. Nice pictures! My buddy and I did the circumnavigation going clockwise in March. It was an awesome trip, we were really stoked. There are some pics from our trip here if you're interested.
  11. Tollhouse? It's always dry there brah!
  12. Thanks for the info guys, I am making inquiries.
  13. That's rich!
  14. Anyone know a good one in the Portland area? I'm in the market...
  15. BillA

    Mt. Hood Solo?

    Also, make sure you know your four basic responsibilities, carry seven different cell phones, AT LEAST two GPS units, an MLU and a black lab. If you follow all of these rules you might just live.
  16. Trad guy kind of seems like that guy with the dog. The unnecessary capitalization is driving me crazy. His analyses are whack. "Educating" a whole new generation of cell phone reliant backcountry travelers, awesome! I love the internet. Also, your four basic responsibilities are f-ing stupid and I don't think in 1986 (the OES thing) they had cell phones (maybe they had those sweet bag phones) or GPS. So whatever, STFU.
  17. I know this isn't extremecascadeflyfishingbros.com, but I was wondering if anyone wants to go fly fishing with a semi-total noob sometime in the next couple of weeks, somewhere closeish to Portland. Send me a PM if interested.
  18. BillA

    Bear!

    Plexus- Where abouts in Colorado? The last confirmed grizzly sighting in the San Juans was in '96. If you saw one after that year and it was in Southern Colorado you should get in touch with Dave Petersen, the guy who wrote "Ghost Grizzlies". I'm sure he'd be interested...
  19. Nobody wants to split gas? Leaving 5/12ish?
  20. Yo, I'm heading down to the valley leaving Portland sometime between May 10th and the 15th. Would like to find someone else who's looking to head down around that time to split gas. I'll be heading back to Portland at the end of the month. I already have partners lined up for after around the 20th, but would be into climbing until they arrive. Send me a PM if you're interested.
  21. The mighty West Face of Mt. Tabor has a pretty good set of stairs.
  22. I-rock was looking a bit sad as of Wednesday with the warm sunny weather. Not a sign of any ice around march madness...
  23. Thanks for the info guys. Hey Mike, I read a little about Dequevains and it says that basically there's nothing you can do except wait? I have a friend that's a good massage therapist, I guess I'll see if I can get ahold of her...
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