ken4ord

I don't think anybody is crucifying him, he asked a question and people are responding.

I'll second Selle Italia Flite saddle, it is the way to go, the only seat I'll use. There expensive but worth it.

Shit it is really up to the leader being able to assess their partner abilities. I have taken beginners to strickly TR areas and then I have gone with beginners out on long demanding alpine climbs and to hard sport areas. I think it is sort of stupid to dedicate an area to beginners and other place not for beginners. Doing that would be like what the Mounties do with their courses. Everybody is different in what they can handle for their first time or first several times out. It really depends on what you think your partner can handle and what you can handle. When it come to crag or climb access, first come first serve. That doesn't mean you have a right to be rude and an ass.

Nice Job, looks and sounds pretty freakin' wild out there.

Nice one you guys I am jealous.

That reminds me I have the original 1st ed. of 50 classics by Allen Steck and Steve Roper. That is a great guide book, because it is interesting read. Good stories of climbs on the selected routes, great history, and really nice black and white images. It is also cool to see how the ratings have changed over the year, with the freeing of aid sections and the expansion of the YDS rating system.

Hmmm wonder if there will be riots in Squamish like last Canada Day? Wasn't it last Canada Day when a group of 20 or so drunk Canadians beat up some americans camping up there?

We have seen some Dall and Harbor Porpoises, but no otters. I thought we otter have seen some by now. More bald eagles than you can shake a sockeye at. Yesterday we kayaked over to the glacier and bouldered around a bit. My aluminum pons did all right on the seracs. Rain. Tourists. Fog. Blue-hairs. Drizzle. "Newly-weds and Nearly-deads". Clouds. Parts of Clouds. Tourons. Fog. Liquid Sunshine. Showers. Rubber boots aka "Sitka Slippers". "Marine Air". Wow sounds like fun!!!!

I guess what I am getting at is not so much which guide is the best, though that is good to know, but what set these guides apart from other guides? LUCKY mentioned the topos of Tieton guide, but there are a lot of guides with topos, what is special about the topos in that guide compared to others?

With all this talk of a new guide book being the best ever, I thought I would put this one out there. What is the best guide book you have ever seen? Why? What makes it the best guide book ever? My favorite was the Ed Webster guide for the White Mountains (Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges in North Conway). What set this guide book aside from other guide book was: 1. It is compact and sturdy, I had mine threaded with cord so that I could clip it on the rack. 2. Very concise and thorough. Route name, first ascent info, brief sentence describing the climb, pitch by pitch description (like: p1 Up left facing corner, to spacious belay ledge 110'.) 3. Good pictures of the cliff with route lines drawn in, with numbering system with number of route matching index, route description, and photo route list. 4. Index and photo route list had bold page number that description was on, light gray page number(s) for photos. 5. *** system and R & X systems were used. 6. Trail maps at the begining of each section were easy to use. By far the greastest guide book in my opinion, thanks Ed.

Well it looks like I have to be patient. It also looks like I have never really sprained my ankle bad until now. This sucks, oh well.

"All work no play make Jack a dull boy" "There are no wrong decisions"

He listed his poison Clean Break and Chianti, both I want to do. Too bad I freaked up foot/ankle.

If you are climbing E Willmans, don't bother with nuts for pro and bring cams in the little less than half inch to 2.5 inch for the cracks, what little there are they are all pretty much parallel sided. Oh yeah have fun.

Alright here is the detail dberdinka. Paco and I were at the top of the Fin, which at that point is the end of the route, at the time we did not no this so I was going to climb this short corner just the hell of it, but the crack had ice in it, so I traversed out of the corner and above a ledge that I was going to climb down to. Before I started climbing down I want to flick the rope around the corner lower so I wouldn't have rope drag issues later. While I was flicking the rope with my left hand, my right hand hold broke. I fell maybe ten feet onto a rock ledge, landing somewhat on my heel of my left foot, felt it give out and saw it roll in an unatural postion, then hit with the palm of my left hand. It immediately swelled right up, once intial shock and stream of cuss words ended I set up an anchor and belayed Paco over, contemplating what to do. I knew I had tape and drugs, so I pop my shoe off carefully did a quick check for bleeding and taped it up and put it in my approach shoes before it got to big to fit in my shoes. Pop some oxycodone and packed up shit. The pain was way worse than when I blew out my knee which was the most intense pain I had felt so far. I tired putting weight on my foot and I couldn't. So I hopped on my good foot up to the crest, traversed accross the talus and scree to the snow slope, where I was able to lie on my pack and slide down. By the time I got to the bottom of the first snow slope the drug had started to kick in, still could feel pain but not as intense as before. Hop my way to the top of Asgard Pass at that point we met up with MisterE and M Layton, I borrowed one of there ice axes and continued the slide down Asgard Pass. At the bottom of the snow MisterE had some poles (thanks again) I was able to use to hobble out. It took a grueling 8.5 hours to get out. We were at the car 10:30 in Seattle at 2:00 released from the hospital at 5:00 sleeping at home at 5:30. Most of the injury is more in my foot than it is in my ankle, I have pretty good range of motion in my ankle and I would say it is a minor sprain, my foot though is blue and swollen.

So this last weekend I sprained my ankle really bad, which I thought I had done before but not like it is now. I know the standard procedure is RICE. My question how long does it take before I am able to stand and gimp around on it? This accident happened last Sunday and I still can't stand on it and need crutches. I had x-rays and there are no breaks, could they have been wrong? It seems I should be able to stand on it.

good point pete. overnight hike to the sportclimbs!!!!!!!!! Don't worry if they gate it at Dingford Creek you'll still have access to your favorite climbs.

Hey thanks for some ideas on variations on what I do. Adding the extra water like Sobo said prevents things from sticking to the pot, which makes clean up easier. I use the Cous-cous to thicken things up so it is more of a solid meal rather than soup. Thanks sobo.

Light, cheap and easy. Lipton noodle dinners ($2) add all or any of the following cous cous, butter, canned meat and brocilli (packs well) to make dinner for two. Breakfast hot museli or instant oatmeal, cocoa, and americano. I have small nalgene bottles (4oz) that hold two shot pretty good. About the same weight as packing a little spro maker and takes the same amount of space.

Yeah I am trying to figure this one out. I am not that small, granted I might go around humping legs, but huh?????

Da Original is da way to go.

Damn dood stop your whinning about the weather at least you are not at work on a beautiful day with a bum ankle.

This one is very confusing. Couldn't the dude feel that he was getting all cut up? what happened to the chica? To me it seems more likely that he was doing some scarification rather than getting cut up by a girls hardware. The reason why I say this is because you probably would have seen her in there as well. Oh Dru an Ampalang would be much worse than a Prince Albert. With a Prince Albert he may just tear a larger piss slit opening where as with an Ampalang he could have torn he head off.

Well speak of the devil huh fenderfour.

Crampons aren't necessarily required, though I would definitely recomend an ice axe. I was up there two weeks ago and had no problem climbing the gully with sneakers on. The snow was soft enough to kick steps without boots. As for 76 versus Glacier, I have only done the Glacier Basin trail. Glacier Basin trail is pretty staright forward.