ken4ord

Alright here is the detail dberdinka. Paco and I were at the top of the Fin, which at that point is the end of the route, at the time we did not no this so I was going to climb this short corner just the hell of it, but the crack had ice in it, so I traversed out of the corner and above a ledge that I was going to climb down to. Before I started climbing down I want to flick the rope around the corner lower so I wouldn't have rope drag issues later. While I was flicking the rope with my left hand, my right hand hold broke. I fell maybe ten feet onto a rock ledge, landing somewhat on my heel of my left foot, felt it give out and saw it roll in an unatural postion, then hit with the palm of my left hand. It immediately swelled right up, once intial shock and stream of cuss words ended I set up an anchor and belayed Paco over, contemplating what to do. I knew I had tape and drugs, so I pop my shoe off carefully did a quick check for bleeding and taped it up and put it in my approach shoes before it got to big to fit in my shoes. Pop some oxycodone and packed up shit. The pain was way worse than when I blew out my knee which was the most intense pain I had felt so far. I tired putting weight on my foot and I couldn't. So I hopped on my good foot up to the crest, traversed accross the talus and scree to the snow slope, where I was able to lie on my pack and slide down. By the time I got to the bottom of the first snow slope the drug had started to kick in, still could feel pain but not as intense as before. Hop my way to the top of Asgard Pass at that point we met up with MisterE and M Layton, I borrowed one of there ice axes and continued the slide down Asgard Pass. At the bottom of the snow MisterE had some poles (thanks again) I was able to use to hobble out. It took a grueling 8.5 hours to get out. We were at the car 10:30 in Seattle at 2:00 released from the hospital at 5:00 sleeping at home at 5:30. Most of the injury is more in my foot than it is in my ankle, I have pretty good range of motion in my ankle and I would say it is a minor sprain, my foot though is blue and swollen.

So this last weekend I sprained my ankle really bad, which I thought I had done before but not like it is now. I know the standard procedure is RICE. My question how long does it take before I am able to stand and gimp around on it? This accident happened last Sunday and I still can't stand on it and need crutches. I had x-rays and there are no breaks, could they have been wrong? It seems I should be able to stand on it.

good point pete. overnight hike to the sportclimbs!!!!!!!!! Don't worry if they gate it at Dingford Creek you'll still have access to your favorite climbs.

Hey thanks for some ideas on variations on what I do. Adding the extra water like Sobo said prevents things from sticking to the pot, which makes clean up easier. I use the Cous-cous to thicken things up so it is more of a solid meal rather than soup. Thanks sobo.

Light, cheap and easy. Lipton noodle dinners ($2) add all or any of the following cous cous, butter, canned meat and brocilli (packs well) to make dinner for two. Breakfast hot museli or instant oatmeal, cocoa, and americano. I have small nalgene bottles (4oz) that hold two shot pretty good. About the same weight as packing a little spro maker and takes the same amount of space.

Yeah I am trying to figure this one out. I am not that small, granted I might go around humping legs, but huh?????

Da Original is da way to go.

Damn dood stop your whinning about the weather at least you are not at work on a beautiful day with a bum ankle.

This one is very confusing. Couldn't the dude feel that he was getting all cut up? what happened to the chica? To me it seems more likely that he was doing some scarification rather than getting cut up by a girls hardware. The reason why I say this is because you probably would have seen her in there as well. Oh Dru an Ampalang would be much worse than a Prince Albert. With a Prince Albert he may just tear a larger piss slit opening where as with an Ampalang he could have torn he head off.

Well speak of the devil huh fenderfour.

Crampons aren't necessarily required, though I would definitely recomend an ice axe. I was up there two weeks ago and had no problem climbing the gully with sneakers on. The snow was soft enough to kick steps without boots. As for 76 versus Glacier, I have only done the Glacier Basin trail. Glacier Basin trail is pretty staright forward.

If you are talking about that wall you see once you crest Dragontail, yeah I agree that wall looks sweet.

You can also do the rap in two rappels, ie single 50m rope

Hey nice job you guys on that new route. MisterE thanks so much for the use of the poles for the hike out. Luckily no damage except for a some major bruising all over my foot, including my toes. Could have been way worse. Maybe that will have to be the next Dragontail route to add to my list of climb to do.

I am out this week cause of my ankle, but next week I will be up for a ride.

jon-- ya gotta ditch the pink spandex. you're confusing folks! only you and richard simmons where that! Speaking of Richard Simmons, did anyone see Who's Line Is It? Richard Simmons was on the show, damn horny little bugger dry humped all the regulars on the show. It was by far the funniest one I have seen.

Wow, so sorry to hear about that. That's crazy. Glad to hear everybody is ok.

Climb, the forecast isn't that bad.

My doggie wasn't a lad, he was pure bred mutt.

Good Ride last night Slothrop.

Anyone interested in running up Backbone Arete this weekend? Ken

I am going to buy a new stove too, it gonna be the pocket rocket. I have owned XGK and whisper light both are good, but not that light.

Yeah Zoko or as I use to call him at time Zokie was awesome, poor guy is probably not living the same life he use to live when I was around. Ah the mountain bike rides, the climbs, the swimming. A toast to Zoko and all mountain doggies. I agree you T Nolse lab pic is the ultimate in mountain doggie photos.

Bummer about the fires up there those people already have it hard enough.

I went ice climbing with my dog one time and didn't tie him up at the bottom. I thought he would just have fun running around. Well we started up the climb and he followed clawing his way up an easy grade 2 by our standards with ice axes and crampons. I thought he would turn around but he made it up 200 feet to the first belay, he was scared shitless though, you could see it in his eyes. So my girlfriend grab him and tossed him over her shoulder and I lowered the two of them. Zoko was a nut, he could climb 5.5 slab pretty good. I always thought it would be cool to get him a rescue harness and make up some stealth booties to see what he could really do.