ken4ord

Fuck yeah. I might have to order that one. I like all of the Unchained series, and this one has all the big names. Also great footage from BC, Southern Utah, and I think there was a little bit from E27 or it was Hood River. Those guys are sick and those hardtail drops, no thanks, I likes suspension.

Damn I am going to be waiting forever with this connection that I for this shite to load.

That outlet in J-tree ! I went there one time bought a boat load of some drinkable wine a $2 a bottle and glasses for the wine $0.25 each. Also got large brie wheel for $5, decent crackers, chocolate, and all kinds of goodness for pennies. We ate like kings on that trip.

brilliance from a llama! Please leave the bolts as is....there is plenty of gear above and below these 1/4" rusty bolts. And I do believe there is plenty good belays above the bolts Selkirk mentions...just stretch the rope a bit more... Ditto. Once it starts, it is a slippery slide. I have never trusted 1/4 inch bolts old or new. And I have always found bomber protection on Orbit even at the exposed corner (2 small wires are bomber). All the belays I used took good pro and I clearly remember thinking how amazingly good the natural pro at 45 meter belay stations was. Ignore the bolts. Why replace something that is not necessary? My vote, leave as it is, because there is already plenty of natural gear to be had, rock preservation, and historical reasons. I love being on old routes and seeing old spinner 1/4 inchers or old soft irons. Just recently on Mt. Kenya on the route I came across an old wooden peg. My respects to the guys and gals of yesteryear.

Did you aim for the ledge? I didn't really have to aim, but definitely needed to stick it to prevent the bounce then pendulum.

I don't know about that, I think there is no way I would buy those tools if I couldn't replace the pick. At certain point they are a throw away tool, seems sort of wasteful. Everything else seem really cool.

I spun around facing out from the cliff, looked at my hand a saw a part of the cliff in it's grasp. I thought, 'What the fuck is going on? Oh shit! I got to hit that ledge or I am fucked.' I tossed the rock out of my hand. Luckily I hit the ledge and avoided a long pendulum fall.

Great job once again. Damn I miss the PNW!

Yeah no shit. That was just plain ole' bad. This more my style.

Hey DeChristo, I must say luckily for me the only Finger of Fate that I have been experienced with is this one . Still I can't imagine the Finger of Death is worse than having a cathedar! I was in the hospital for appendicitis and they wanted a urine sample. I hadn't been able to piss for days at that point, they threatened me by laying a cathedar on the table next to me. I tried everything I knew to try and pee, finally I gave up and succumbed. When the nurse whipped this 20 inch hose out of the package, not being hung lke a horse I asked the nurse for something smaller, her responses was, "One size fits all dear, just relax.". Then she proceeded shove whole thing all the way up, the only good thing about it was I got to pee after 2-3 days not being able to, other than that it was burning hell.

That's what "work" is for... Come on you guys, do the math it is really only around 1160 hours. I must be bored at work, I my next vacation now!

Thanks everyone, I guess I got some work ahead of me research wise. So I was checking out that link taht MichealO put up the Backpacker article about the Sweetie Pie Doubler any of you have any experience with these? Does anyone know what zippers WM and FF use? Micheal, I think why they are insulated is so that you can keep the wedge on top, otherwise you would both be laying on the zipper.

Alright so me and the lady are looking for new bags, and not exactly sure what we want to get. I know she is thinking 0 degree, I am thinking I have fallen asleep outside at 13000 on Rainier in a raging storm with a 15 y.o. 32 degree down bag. So I am thinking along the lines of a 20 degree bag. Of course we want them to zip together nicely, last a long time, be light, good quality down, and I need my bag broad enough to be comfortable when I am flying solo. I have liked Marmot bags that I have slept in. Currently my old is a Northface, and is not that comfortable, it is a little narrow, I just bought it cause I was able to get it real cheap. We were thinking about Featherfriends, she likes the idea of picking her own colors. When I lived on the east coast everybody used to talk shit about them. I was looking at the Western Mountaineering site and their bags look pretty decent, but I have never heard anything about them. So what are your toughts? Can you help me out with the decision?

I have Stubais and I like the weight of them, but as Josh mentioned the secondary points are quite relaxed. The secondary points hardly engage on anything steeper that 50 degrees. For glacier travel and hill walking they are fine. I'll have to check out those Camp aluminum crampons, even though I still have managed to get up some steeper than 50 degree ice routes with my Stubais.

Yep, that is about right, U2 sucks just about as bad. Only difference is that U2 release one decent albumn and couple of songs here and there that are worth listening too.

Knotzen, nice selection! I have seen the TCTTHWHL a ton of times, excellent film, Peter Grenaway(sp?) , the only one I really didn't like of his was the Draughtman's Contract, I never got into that period. Maybe I will have to try that one again. Das Boots and The Professional are also really good too. Other good picks from the rest of you all are Snatch, Lock Stocks and Two Smoking Barrells, Repoman, and The Big Lembowski hell yeah. The ones I have seen the most are: A Clockwork Orange Rocky Horror The Wall I have seen each easily over 20 times. Still all time favorite film is Wings of Desire.

That is awesome man, I love it when mistake turn out to be a cool adventure.

Like I said I could try, but right now I can not make any promises until the end of the year. I got an invite to go to Morrocco to go climbing ice in March and there are many other places to go, like Malawi where there is 1700m face. Also note I was kidding about learning how to ice climb on the Breach Wall, it is pretty serious shit, not a place for learning, but the mountain to climb yeah.

Nice job, what an awesome looking route. I gotta get to Alaska sometime.

Well Tim we will have a car and will be in Toulouse right before our climbing part of the vacation. So I am up for anything just would like to go to an area and climb. We will be traveling with a sporto rack to keep luggage weight down. Let me find out the dates we will be free for climbing.

How about the Breach Wall on Killi in FEB?

I don't think there is any big deal as long you leave them where they are not in harms way. That said, the only person I have bagged and tagged, was myself up on Rainer, I was spent and wanted my friends to make it up to the summit.

Yeah it was a good time. There will be more picture later, right now I got to catch up on work. We were there for 14 day and climbed a lot of the sub-peaks (6 of them), so I have around 200 images, just gave you guys a sample. There is still a ton of potential up there, like someone mentioned the East and North face area has the most potential on the main summit. If and when I go back I would like to do some new routing.

Hey Jay, No the line we did was the Ice Window, the right hand one. The left one is Diamond Coulier, which hasn't seen ascent for a long time, an Italian team was there checking it out and back down, my guess it goes at M7 maybe M10 for the first couple pitches, then up towards the top save some reseveres for 5+ ice. Our route was more moderate maybe 3+ though my partner says 4-4+, it was good either way. Nobody had done the Ice Window for 5-10 years is what everyone was saying on the mountain, it is considered out of shape.

So we arrived........... We saw......... We climbed and saw even closer......... Climbed again and then tried to stay warm one night out on the North Normal Route............ Finally got around for some ice after many days of climbing at the end of our trip........ Figured it could go........and it did......... We celebrated............ Don't worry a full report to come, just don't have time right now to write down 2 weeks worth of climbing.