Climb: Panga, Rwanda-Angry Baboons 5.9+, G8, B9
Date of Climb: 2/12/2006
Trip Report:
On my never ending quest of finding some decent climbable rock here Rwanda, last weekend my travels lead me to Panga.
It is area that is about 2 hour drive from Kigali, where I live. I caught wind of this place from a friend of mine who works at one of the local embassies; he was kind enough to set me up with topos of the area and old pre-genocide rock climbing guide book. The guide book was not much help considering the cliff is 2km long, 90m high and only listed 3 routes in the book.
When we arrived, we were immediately swarmed by people. I went to work to find a guard for my vehicle. Yep no PNW forest pass needed here, but if you want to return to your vehicle intact it is best to get a guard. Finding a guard took no time and before I knew it we were off. I was so excited to find a big, undeveloped, Gunks like cliff, I could barely keep myself from running to the base. My partners didn’t seem to be as charged as I was, but I think climbing to them is an interesting pursuit, unlike me, where climbing feels like air or water, basically a necessity.
We looked around for one of the routes listed in the guidebook, but we couldn’t find any signs of routes. One of the kids was really eager to get us to the left hand side of the cliff and from what I could tell was trying to show us a cave or a way around to the top of the cliff. Since we couldn’t find one of the three routes I went to work trying to find a line that made its way around the big roofs that seemed to be everywhere. Eventually I found a line that I thought I might be able to handle. We proceeded to rack and rope up with half of the village around us.
The line that I picked started with some low angle 5.6 climbing. Then got to a short 5.7 layback flake and then easy traversing to big ledge where I was able to set a belay and relieve myself with some privacy. It was about 35m and good warm up to what was ahead. I brought up Isabelle and Keith to join me. I was stoked to be on rock that was higher than 30 feet and charged forward on the next pitch.
The next pitch headed up towards some roofs, unlike the Gunks these roofs did not have big horizontal holds and were quite feature-less. I tried going up over a short over-lap but couldn’t find any gear or holds, then I started to realize this might be harder than I originally thought. I tried a different way and started to work my way up a ramp that had some long grass growing out of the cracks. With a little bit of work I managed to get through the first ‘G’ section, this one went at G7- not too bad, a little scary though grabbing hold of a bunch of grass on a vertical wall and hauling off of it. For those of you unfamiliar with the G system, I am not too surprised because I just made it up, basically G7- feels like 5.7- difficulty with grass as your hold. After that first G section I climbed up a steep face, with big footholds that were so greasy that the slightest foot placement adjustment caused your feet to skate off the holds. Not only did I have to deal with polished holds, there was more grass, at least this time there were holds under the grass. The technique that I started to use was to drape the grass over my head and back so that I could see and brush off the holds hidden under the grass. 40m later I found myself on a nice ledge, similar the GT ledge on the Trapps. That pitch made me work a little harder and was 5.8 G7- B0.
I got a good long break on the Panga GT ledge bringing up my partners. They grunted and with a couple of hangs made their way up to the ledge. During this time, all of the kids that were down on the ground started making there way across the GT ledge towards our belay all the while I kept on eyeing the cliff looming above, layback flake, mantel, grass, chimney, grass, arête, and I couldn’t see what else above that, but I couldn’t imagine, what else could there be?
Once Isabelle and Keith were up on the ledge I immediately went to work restacking and racking, I didn’t want to lose my motivation, especially knowing there was a walk off bail point.
Once I got on belay I started up the first pumpy 5.9 section, fist jams to a layback and onto a grassy sloping ledge. A little bit of G4 and I was at the base of the flaring chimney. Down on the ground this looked like it would be relatively easy but now I could see that rock was extremely polished. The next 20 minutes, I would work my way up a few moves get some gear in and search desperately for the next hold under grass then make way down before I got spit out of the greasy flare. I did this a few times until I was able to get past the 5.9+ climbing to the next grassy ledge with a G8 move to get on the ledge. Above me was more polished flaring chimney with a big chock stone. I thought there is no way I have enough gear, especially after placing six pieces in the flaring hell I just passed, and then I remembered the arête. Damn that thing was steeper than it looked. I stepped out of the chimney and onto the arête; luckily it was peppered with holds, especially since I was running low on gear.
I start up it and it was awesome, nice exposed climbing at this point pretty high above the ground. I thought I was going make it, after doubting below, I only had 50 feet to go. All of a sudden I hear a familiar bark which shocked the hell out of me. I looked up and sure enough red assed baboons above, hence the B9 rating. There was a troop of 9 above me, it threw me off a little bit, but then I remembered how scared they are of humans so I continued climbing figuring they would take off as I approached. Well these guys weren’t too timid I was 20 feet below them under some roofs and they still hadn’t left. Even worse one of the little bastards started hucking dirt clods down at me and another was dislodging big ass rocks off the cliff, WTF! To top this pitch off I was 20 feet from freedom with one draw left under a roof with scary looking blocks. I sucked it up and attempted to give it a go, I got under the roof plugged in a shit cam that I had, grabbed the horizontal above the roof and attempted to try and step on the blocks ever so lightly, as soon my foot touch the blocks they shifted enough to make me want to cry for my mommy and crap myself at the same time. I immediately made my way down to the ledge, almost jumping to it. I was so amped that I built an anchor and proceeded to belay my partners up the 5.9+, G8, B9 pitch.
As I was belaying I was trying to calm myself so I could see the next 20 feet with a clear mind and find a way up through. The damn baboon’s hucking stuff at me, Keith hanging on the rope for all eternity and my deteriorating dirt grass ledge, and my two chock stone, single shitty cam belay weren’t making it any easier clearing the mind. Keith’s hour long battle ended in victory on the belay ledge, though he forgot to grab the gear I requested so I could back up the belay. Isabelle made it pretty damn quick with a hang or two. At this point I spotted holds out the face to the left with possible gear and the baboons had finally let us be. I took off with the rack and after one 5.8 traverse move to get on the face I was in chicken head heaven. I was able to wiggle in a cam that was ok and then cruised to the top.
At the top I was greeted by the 20 or so kids that had been down on the GT ledge below. They had made there way around the cliff and up to where I was now. Then I was shortly joined first by Keith then Isabelle. I enjoyed a little post funk up on top of the cliff, took in the views and shot some pictures. After we packed up our entourage led us back down and around the cliff.
On way down our friend who was trying to take us around the cliff pointed out some climbs that either some Belgium of French had established with some rusty bolts, homemade hangers and the names of the routes painted in black. So he wasn’t trying to show us a cave earlier, but where other climbers had gone before.
Back down below the cliff the rest of the village was waiting with big grins on there faces and hand shakes. It was weird being such a hero for doing the first ascent of Angry Baboons 5.9+, G8, B9. Oh well I guess that is the way things are here in Rwanda.
On the first 20km of dirt road on the way back to Kigali, we kept hearing people yell “Commera”, which mean ‘brave’, I guess the word got out to the other villages that the muzungus were climbing Panga again.
Gear Notes:
Used a full rack up to 3.5 Camelot down to .5 Lowe Ball. I wish I would have brought more draws and more small pieces.
Approach Notes:
Straight forward.
To be continued in the future........
This arete looked pretty good I might have to try it next time.
This section of the wall looked great. Maybe when my huevos are bigger.
Also forgot to note that I made it back for my french lessons the next day
The damn baboon was mainly throwing dirt clods and ocassional rock. As for hiring a guard, just pick the most trust worthy looking guy and ask him to the guard. I usually try asking french but most don't french or english. So it usually comes down to pointing at him and pointing at the car and he know he'll get a buck or two. They are usually pretty stoked. Though one time I had the kid watch the car and there were sticks stuck in the locks, I yelled at him didn't pay him anything.