kurthicks

another option, that will probably get you away from the 'bilers would be to go in via the 16 road from Sisters. it ends at a snowpark near Park Meadow, on the way to Tam Rim. I don't remember the name of the snopark off hand though. Anyways, from there it's (i'd guess, no map) about a 4-6 mile cross-country ski to the base of the N. Ridge/Face of Broken Choss. Camping in Park Meadow in winter should be pretty sweet too.

no, i'm saying that i would NOT tie in directly to the belay loop. What I do is go from top-down, starting through the waist belt (next to the belay loop), then pass through the belay loop, then go out the bridge (the leg loop part that holds the belay loop). Maybe I can post a pic later, but i'm working on cooking up some thermo liners right now.

i saw a webcam shot earlier today from Wallowa lake, it looked pretty ugly. Maybe TG can give us the info. I'm thinking of heading down there this weekend if the freshiez start falling.

Just like the WA ice book too...not that I mind though.

I ordered one of the EMS belay jackets the other day. it just showed up. The initial test was alright. it fits just like my TNF down jacket, but is less puffy. i stood outside with just it layered over a cotton t-shirt and was toasty warm in the 32 degree temps. It also fits over my helmet. the only downfall thus far is that the front pockets aren't insulated on the outside, meaning that i'll have to wear gloves. It's getting a more thorough test up in Banff next week, I'll post a more detailed review then. Kurt

you mean this one? sorry about the file size. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=2

belay loops are used to belay to prevent tri-directional loading on carabiners (miscalled tri-axial in some books). they are ridiculously strong due to their construction of doubled webbing. the reason for tying into the harness directly is simply a matter of wearing out the belay loop too fast. as i said, they are plenty strong. If you're breaking these parts of your harness in a fall, there are other issues to deal with, like imploding internal organs and such. Personally, I feel better tying in through all 3 spots, the waist belt, belay loop, and leg loops on my harness. That way, if I happen to miss one, I'm still connected to it via one of the others.

my concern with clipping the rope first is that if I drop the rope for some reason, there goes the draw...

which manufacturers? I'd like to see that information if you've got it.

It sounds more like you want a double leather boot. there are a few models out there like the Salomon Pro Thermic or the Sportiva Nuptse. check out this review from Climbing too.

According to the tests, it will reduce the number of falls held by up to 50%. The real danger comes from loading that exact spot over an edge or biner...read more about it here. http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/Marking%20of%20Ropes.doc my recommendation is to weave dental floss or heavy thread through the sheath very carefully at the middle of the rope.

it's too bad that it will probably fall down this weekend when the temps hit -10 or so.

2 people climbing the infamous "pencil" pitch on Polar Circus. edit:just wanted to say that I didn't take this pic...

good call Dru, you going to be there too?

or check out one here... golite 6 month parka $99

a couple years ago my goretex jacket and new windstopper hat fell off my pack while descending cross-country after climbing the Prouty Glacier on South Sister. sadly, it's probably still out there.

yep, after looking at some pics it appears that the gully i was thinking of is the right most obvious one on the Reid HW. awesome looking line.

awesome job guys! :insert jealous graemlin here:

new gaiters, winter mittens, and an 8 day climbing trip to Banff with the girlfriend. w00t!

Jake, do you mean the "trigger" things? you can get them from Grivel NA http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/index2.html or I bet John could order you some. now that you've got 2 tools, you're coming ice climbing with me after christmas.

We had the same. my helmet saved me more than once. I'd love some pics of the lower part of the route if you took any. PM me if you do. Kurt

there was a pencil of ice coming down the east face on Monday. The gulleys on the west face of Queens Chair(?) (the one above I-rock) looked awesome. I didn't see much else though.

Climb: Mt. Hood-Leutholds Couloir Date of Climb: 12/20/2004 Trip Report: climbed Leutholds on Monday with Bala (pup_on_the_mountain) during a brief break in the high winds that buffeted the mountain during the early part of the week. The route is in awesome condition, with the 'hourglass' being about 300' of WI2. we climbed about 20 ropelengths w/our 50m rope, just pausing to belay Bala up the crux 55-ish degree ice step. The route took bomber pickets and screws wherever we needed them. Great route with the conditions and not another soul in sight. looking down above the hourglass Upper Yocum Sunset from Crater Rock Gear Notes: 1 axe & tool each 3 pickets 3 screws 50m rope Approach Notes: awesome snow

were you guys up there on Sunday evening? We ran into a party of 3 coming down, all covered in rime... Kurt