kurthicks

It is not uncommon for guides to have new clients belayed with a separate rope while rappelling. Although it does add some confusion for the rappeller initially, it does make them feel a lot more safe. If it's a short rappel, do it with a doubled 60m rope--fix it halfway and have them rap the fixed side while belaying (say with a Munter) on the other half. no extra equipment necessary. For style bonus points, belay on a separate rope and give a fireman's on the rap line.

Perhaps most importantly: DPS and I met Annabell Bond's guide for her April Denali climb. Nice guy with some interesting insights into her climbing mentality. Dinner and had at the West Rib Pub.

what is your intended driving route from PDX to stanley? I-84 to Idaho then north?

I just found this thread. Some of my thoughts on the trip: I had a great time and am not disappointed that we didn't summit. just hanging out at 17K and catching views of Foraker and Hunter were more than enough for me to feel like it was all worth it. Take the time to enjoy the scenery since being back in the office sucks. People climb Denali for all sorts of reasons, especially for the "trophy" of climbing the high peak of North America. I never got this summit fever and am amazed how people can go back year after year to try this route (except for the beauty of the Range). Good for them, but it's not my definition of climbing. I was amazed by how physically easy it was and my muscles were never tired. my hardest days though were the carry days to 13,5 and 17K, but the move days were a breeze. I attribute this to being my first time at either of those altitudes. Our longest travel day was 5.5 hours on the move to 17K. There are pickets on the Denali Pass traverse, just clip and go (dig out if necessary). Tie in long (30+m) if you're on a team of 2 to have a picket between you at all times. There is one piece of fixed line at Washburn's Thumb and a picket here and there on the ridge. I'll post some pics today or tomorrow when I get the chance.

there is granite in the Wallowas and some limestone. the W. Face of the Matterhorn is the largest face in Oregon, supposedly, at over 4K tall. TG was talking about putting a line up it a while back. there have been numerous attempts, some involving some spicy aid. I hadn't heard of House's line on it though, sounds interesting.

A friend of mine documented their climb via photos and video. it should be up on his website in a few days. uncagethesoul.com

I just got off the mountain. right now aluminum pons would be ok, but 2 weeks ago aluminum pons would have made the trip nearly impossible since the glacier was all blue ice. it snowed a lot since then. i was glad to have steel pons on the HW though, even with the fixed lines. the pickets are in place on Denali Pass, about 100' or so apart. some were burried, but could be easily dug out. all have biners attached to them w/duct tape. tie in long if there are only 2 on your rope team. Kurt

I climbed on the prototype Linkcams one weekend at Smiff. They are pretty cool, but the triggers may be hard to get to with those with small hands. I didn't fall on it, but they do fit into shallow cracks pretty well. pretty smooth just pushing a cam basically wherever you want to in a crack.

see you in a few weeks sprayers! ~Kurt

a regular Dan fido! Those are fun routes. The pinnacle on Thielson may still be holding snow, so be prepared for that.

Glad you enjoyed Spring. Chunky Monkey is a very awkward climb for the grade. The moves off the ground are pretty wierd for a sport route (what sporto does offwidth?). The Whitman kids can be somewhat overwhelming, just head further right and usually you'll be all alone again. Good to see them out climbing though. I can't wait to get down there again.

thanks craig. Maybe we'll go to snoqualmie pass...

anyone go to ingalls recently? will I need to carry slowshoes or can we get by without? ~Kurt

we'll already be there then. sorry.

what are the dates?

Concord Tower, North Face is a fun 5.6, right next to the Beckey Route. The 3rd pitch ramp pitch is sweet. Concord Tower, Cave Route. 5.6

wow.

We saw you guys climbing the couloir saturday. Good on ya for doing something with the weather being so crappy. we just went to the moraine, camped in the rain, and went home.

time for the annual trip! have fun, I'll be in AK. Hit that line in the sawtooths if the weather sucks in the Tetons, otherwise it's mine next year.

it was pretty miserable up there this weekend. Saturday was in the 60's and sunny, then saturday night had a low of 48 and it was raining hard. I doubt it's going to come back in.

Sharp... he means NOLSe. If i get motivated to walk that far after Ice Cliff, i'll take a pic and post it next week. no promises.

some guys drove up there 2 weeks ago to climb the Cascadian. It's mentioned in one of the Stuart posts. edit: oh,

anyone have an idea how much snow Stewey got during the last storm? I've got some video of the NW face from 2 weeks ago, but no way to send it along.

Bo Derek. Most routes at Spring Mountain in OR. generally anything on good rock with good pro. preferably not on a slab or above a ledge or above lower angle terrain.