kurthicks

spectra/tech cord (in cordelette form) can and should be tied with a triple fisherman's knot.

Water: I don't remember a lot of options (other than the first creek crossing about 1 mile in) until you finish the steep climb up to the heather benches. plenty of creeks up there though. Approach: The trail is pretty good, brushy for the first 5 miles though then STEEP. Look for flagging at the first creek crossing since the trail got destroyed in the 2003 floods. Read Nelson's description. Once up high (over 5000', i think) on the heather slopes, follow the climber's path to a creek. Do NOT cross the creek directly, rather scramble upstream (follow a cairn or 3) about 100', the climber's trail goes off left here. Follow it until it dies, trending toward the obvious col filled with talus. descend to awesome campsites and a creek (watch for loose rock). camp: tents would be fine. There were no bugs there when i went, but that was in September. Check your PMs. Kurt

This one got me too. I was thinking that they were doing a spider rappel, to help the injured down. But, usually, that would only put 2 people on rappel at the same time. With 4 people at the rap station, 2 spider raps could have gotten all 4 down to the next station. Again, my condolences to friends and family.

When we did the route we took 30m glacier ropes, didn't need them since there was 1 crevasse on route. it was ~8 feet deep. The route itself does not need a rope and I found the rock to be somewhat loose. approach/route/crevasse visible in this photo .

at 4lbs, 4oz (mens 9)...they look more like a Scarpa Freney than a Trango S. It does look like it would hike/climb well though.

same for the East Ridge approach gulley.

There are pics of the serac fall/slide path in the Adams Glacier 7/3/05 TR. We saw it too. it fell almost 3000' in 45 seconds. Fox, was your group camped by lake 7505'? we ran into a lot of people camped up there.

The Buttermilks/Peabodys are pretty cool to check out. Sharp crystals there from what I remember. It'll be pretty hot though, go early or late in the day!

That's a lot more than simple anchor failure. "The first [rock] struck and injured an experienced climber. The second, refrigerator-sized rock to which four of the climbers were anchored came loose" "The trio was rigging its ropes for its decent when the second rock, about 10 feet across, let loose. The climbers' rope was secured to the large rock. As it went, so did the rope." My condolences.

The real question is can you arrest on glacier ice? If not, they why use a rope at all? For practicing crevasse rescue, it would be fine. I just did the Adams Glacier in a party of 2 with a 20m rope. scary if one of us really fell in? yes. light? totally.

How about CC'ing (carbon copying) for PMs?

I use my MSR dragonfly on the Trillium baseplate and swaged a wire hanging system to that. Clip it to the apex of the tent. bungee the fuel bottle to the underside of the baseplate. I bet it would work with one of the new XGKs with the flexible fuel lines.

I've got some route pics and pics of you i'll try to post tomorrow. Anyone know how to post/attach a video?

that's what I meant to do, thanks Darin.

Beckey says it's pretty crappy rock, but who cares when it looks like this: looks like a brutal approach though.

it looked pretty dry on Friday afternoon.

7mm.

Full size pics Sunset on Maude Juan on 7FJ-Maude Col traverse Maude North Face Juan chilling with the Death Cornice Fat marmot posing in Leroy Creek Basin This was a pretty fun trip. Thanks Juan for the burger and Jens for the steps. Time to go back and do the N. Ice Couloir...

I was up in Marblemount this weekend and met a ranger who lurks the site for beta, not to bust people. Feds can be climbers too...

all of this has me inspired to head down there soon to check out some alpine routes there. Anyone interested? thanks sobo, when are you coming out to Lightning Dome area?

Were you the one that soloed it? If so, that was my girlfriend and I finishing it up when you were there. perfect timing.

here are a few: DPS on the Kahiltna Hunter Foraker Denali from KIA Me enjoying the views from 17k

PDX actually. right in your own backyard.

It's not Dan Fido. I've known John for going on 10 years, so I'll vouch for him and UTS. Anyways, here are some pictures: http://www.uncagethesoul.com/CascadeTrifecta/index.html

Thanks Bill. Everyone else, please refrain from ripping on my friend. His production work is pretty impressive. I believe the drive time is somewhere in the 6 hour range...