kurthicks

or even Peshastin.

We did 2 raps off the summit plateau (fixed stations), then descended an easy ledge system to the left that deposited us on the slabs. We stayed generally left, finally walking down flat-ish permanent snow towards the little lake near the pass. Very safe IMO. Did you guys take any pics?

Climb: Dragontail-Backbone Date of Climb: 9/24/2005 Trip Report: After much debate, Matt (NYC007) and I decided to do Backbone in a day last Saturday. Most of the day consisted of us calling each other "Sally's" and commenting about how we would rather be spooning in the back of my Subaru instead of climbing. Da Route (click for overlay) Matt following the offwidth. This pitch was much easier than expected. We both somewhat enjoyed climbing it! We hauled the packs on this pitch with our 60m rope (recommended). Above the OW, we stayed just left of the crest, eventually coming to this roof. Matt lead up and right into the OW, which took us up to the "down and right 5.8 crack" that Nelson describes. Easier climbing took us to the Fin. Fear the Fin Then climb the Fin. Getting onto the Fin required some trundling onto Matt before we reached the end of the lower ledge--as marked with a fixed forged friend. We climbed the right hand line that Nelson describes. Our belay was located directly above my head in the notch. At the notch, we climbed left of the crest, starting on upright flakes (2-4' tall, very obvious) and continuing on ledges and blocks to the second notch in the ridge. Very little loose rock was encountered. Here we crossed through and out onto a catwalk that took us up easy 5th to the summit scramble. We hit the summit plateau about 30 minutes before dark. A long ways to go. Just above the glacier at dark. We finally got back to the car at 12:50am, completing a 19:40 hour day. Full size pics in my gallery Gear Notes: the new C4 camalot #5 is NOT large enough to protect the offwidth to the top. a #2 big bro makes it a little less runout. Bring ice tools to climb the WI that is forming from the glacier runoff. Approach Notes: twice in a week The snow on the approach & descent is easily bypassed. No 'pons necessary.

I've been able to file about an inch off my Grivel picks with no ill effects on waterice. I did have to file off the first tooth and shape (thin) the second tooth because it kept catching when cleaning the placement. Of course, I did it because I couldn't afford new picks at the time. They are still my DT picks though.

Check your PMs.

Go get sum for free this saturday. http://www.fs.fed.us/news/2005/releases/09/public-lands-day.shtml

Chris give me a call, you can stay at the new casa in Redmond if you want.

Soak in a large bucket (5 gallons or larger) with a weak solution of Muriatic acid. Spray them off with a hose.

Sat- Went up to Dragontail to do Backbone. Started raining right when we hit the lake. ended up climbing Midway before calling it a day. Sun- cragging at Post Falls, ID. Beautiful weather.

snow at ~8000' on Dragontail and Colchuck. No snow at the lakes. (Backbone and Serpentine were snowy and rainy on Saturday). edit: Colchuck NE Buttress and Stuart NR still looked snowfree.

Here is comes... http://www2.standard.net/standard/news/61559/ European-style climbing course making 'iron way' to Ogden Thursday, September 8, 2005 By John Wright Standard-Examiner staff OGDEN -- A rock-climbing attraction under construction in Waterfall Canyon would be one of the first of its kind in the U.S., according to a local climbing expert. The via ferrata, or "iron way," consists of metal rungs and cables attached to rock faces. Wearing harnesses that are attached to the cables, people will be able to climb the rock faces using the rungs. The courses are popular in the Alps, but there are only a handful in the U.S., according to climbing expert and Ogden native Jeff Lowe, who is helpingconstruct the via ferrata. Via ferrata courses were first used in the 1920s or 1930s as a way for people to access remote huts in the Alps, Lowe said. They later were used by troops in World War II to traverse high mountain terrain. "Then they started to just do this for fun, to establish trails in some pretty exciting places," Lowe said. "It's kind of like the most basic, easy form of mountaineering, the safest form of mountaineering and climbing. ... It's like a ladder." Lowe said he is helping build the via ferrata for landowner Chris Peterson. Peterson could not be reached for comment Wednesday. He said one 450-foot-long via ferrata course, which gains 350 feet in elevation, is complete near the waterfall in the canyon, but it will not be open to the public until more testing is done. Two more courses are planned for construction this fall. In his many years of rock climbing and ice climbing around the world, Lowe said, via ferrata courses had never interested him. But then he was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. "It's really restricted my mobility, so it's a little bit more meaningful to me," he said. "I start to see the benefit to people who are not hard-core climbers, who are somehow limited in what they can do." Lowe said the goal is for people to be able to use the via ferrata at no charge. However, they will have to pay for an instructor to show them how to use it their first time. The via ferrata will be part of a climbing park that already includes traditional rock climbing and may eventually include ice climbing, Lowe said. The plan is to divert some water from Malan's Basin over north-facing rock to the west of Malan's Falls. "The park, when it's done, should have climbing of all sorts available," Lowe said. He said he may manage the park under his nonprofit group, Ogden's Hollowgraphic Ice Tower. He created the group when he brought an ice tower he designed for the X-Games to Ogden earlier this year. Lowe tentatively plans to erect the tower in Big Dee Sports Park. ---

September 4, 2005.

So is Backbone 'harder' than Stuart NR w/gendarme? or just more sustained?

They look like god boots

I really like my Charlet Darts for waterfall ice and mixed routes. Mono points seem to suit my footwork technique a little better. I just got a pair of Sarkens for alpine ice (lighter than G14s) and they'll see some waterfalls this winter to check them out.

Photos: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/496496/an/0/page/0#496496

There have been climbs at Smiff that have been FILLED to make them harder. Somewhere in the Cocaine Gulley, IIRC.

or Mounties

It sounds like you did what was reasonable at the time. I find myself in situations like this almost every time I go cragging and depending on the mood I'm in, I react differently. If a group is particularly interested in learning, I will show them a few basic concepts (equalization, angles, etc) and help them build an anchor. If they aren't interested, I take off and hope to be gone before they hurt themselves and I have to respond. I am definately an advocate of professional instruction, so I recommend that to every new climber. Being a new climber can be incredibly dangerous and it's best to start off on the right track. Plus, it helps me keep my job.

or close it for everyone.

I could see myself down there on the 11th. Got to work on the 10th, but Sunday...

From Johannesberg--Sharkfin is the little point in the middle.

http://www.ems.com/navigation/subcategor...D=1125612639041

Yea, support them. Good company and guide service.

Are you going in via North ridge of North Sister? it eliminates a fair bit of mileage and makes for a better traverse. The rock is better than the SW ridge IMO--decent down low, but still loose near the summit. Helmets are still a good idea. Go in through Scott Pass trailhead, follow the trail to Alder Creek (probably 10 minutes or less from car, if i recall correctly), cross the creek on a log bridge, and turn left onto a faint climber's trail. Keep the creek on your left and follow it up into the Villard glacier basin (with one large boulder with some fun problems on it next to a stream). then climb up and right onto the ridge. Follow the ridge to the pinnacle and climb up the Bowling Alley. here's a pic from the basin (Alder Creek) and the upper ridge