kurthicks

Quite professional. Be careful about getting paid. It brings on all sorts of legal ramifications (permits, insurance, etc). Especially if someone was to get hurt (I doubt you have a $1,000,000 or higher insurance policy). As for making it a career, don't bet on it. Most guides would be stoked to earn $75/day every day, but it just doesn't work like that even after taking a number of AMGA courses. Usually, you bust your ass 3 months a year and dirtbag the rest. Looks like fun times though.

Western Mountaineering Bighorn -30 bag for $100. w00t!

The Sawtooths are sweet for alpine rock & backpacking. You can get topos at the Elephant's Perch in Ketchum. You can also mountain bike in the Boulder-Whiteclouds... it's a little bit of a drive though.

we took a half dozen nuts, green aliens to a 3.5", but i would go only to 3" because of the fixed #4 camalot (even the 3" is optional, if you sling the chockstone at the bottom of the offwidth). a 60m half rope is nice. it all depends on your comfort level...

From the gendarme the travese looked wet in spots on Saturday. No word on the down climb difficulty.

Yes, aluminum pons were fine. There is still some seasonal snow on the upper part of the glacier, but ice down low where steel pons would be nice (if you go low like I did). Take an axe or 3rd tool. John, we smoked the Cascadian in less than 3 hours! (the NR in 5:20 and the car-to-car was 17:45) with a fair amount of rest breaks.

Thanks. We found that out on Saturday. Thankfully we had brought them with us.

Nice to meet you guys. Sorry about your filter.

It seems like the family might have known about rockfall if they've been climbing for 3 generations...

We saw two other parties on it on Saturday (all of which topped out within 10 minutes or so), plus one group that appeared to be starting the complete ridge.

Last I checked Stuart is in the Alpine Lakes.... someone want to move it? Thanks Jason for the great day in the hillz! My legs are still feeling the love from the Cascadian. I think a 3.5 is totally overkill for the offwidth, it's easily protected with a 3--if you bump it up once.

What's the status on crampons/axe for the glacier?

Dougie, Check out this thread that we had back in November http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/409283/an/0/page/1#409283 Also swing by the ORC in the Fieldhouse and ask for me. I'm here whenever I don't have class or am not out climbing. Kurt

partner found!

yep, must have been the

I'm thinking of doing something in the Stuart Range this weekend, but I have to be back at the car by noon on Sunday... I'd prefer something car-to-car on saturday, but whatever. Serpentine, stuart NR, Sherpa NR, Prussik WR or SF, outerspace/orbit linkup, etc... PM me. Kurt

When I was there a couple weeks ago I counted over 20 rap stations along the ridge and SE face decent.

god I hope you mean biggs. either way, that sucks.

I saw that as I headed home. for once, i felt glad to live on the east side!

yes. it is as good as people say. I'm going back this winter for sure. no flotation needed. Decent approaches. You can camp for free (cold) in the South Fork or stay at Bison Bill's (or something like that) for about $20/person/night.

Climb: Mt. Daniel-Daniel Glacier Date of Climb: 8/14/2005 Trip Report: Not a lot to report, just conditions mostly...No pictures though, my camera decided to stay at home. Daniel has been on my list for a while as an aesthetic easy route--suitable for girlfriends according to Juan. So we (my girlfriend and I) headed in Saturday afternoon, keen on camping at Peggy's Pond (beautiful, BTW), but terrible blisters ensued and we ended up camping just east of Cathedral Pass. Yesterday I did the route round trip in 4.5 hours from our camp including a climb of the east ridge spire and finding the old airplane engine above the Hyas Creek Glacier. anyone know the history on this? The Hyas Creek Glacier is nearly gone (but has left some cool bivy sites) and one can avoid snow all the way to the Daniel. The Daniel itself is melting quickly too, but is in good shape with about 6-12" of seasonal snow remaining on it's upper flanks. There are a couple easily passed crevasses too. The "headwall" that leads to the middle summit is separated from the glacier by about 30' of talus. The headwall itself seemed steeper than 35 degrees, but that could have been the solo factor kicking in. From there, the trail leads to the top. I found all the usual suspects there: Stuart, Dome, Eldo, Glacier, Rainier... There was a party of 4 that climbed the route too, maybe they're cc'ers and will post some pics. Good route, but a little short. Gear Notes: Aluminum crampons ice axe Approach Notes: buggy

what's up with all the car-to-car action on this route recently? The Terror Basin camp is one of the best bivy sites around... nice work

"The fire is 75% contained... All road closures and restrictions will be lifted at 6 PM tonight, allowing public access to recreation areas." http://199.134.225.53/lickcreek/ Oh yea... "Cause: A piece of logging equipment caught fire and spread to the timber" figures.

Glad you like Thielson. That was my first climb when I was 11. Did you see any bolts up there on the route? I heard mention of some...

Amazing.