kurthicks

were the screamers really necessary?

now taking offers. I'll split shipping. Skis sold. Scarpa Invernos. size 30.0 used about 18 days total (mostly on Denali). was $150, now $90 Arcteryx nozone pack, size S. no padded waistbelt - $70 TNF women's Stamina pack, size M. stay just poked out the bottom, an easy fix. - $60, now $40 camelback daypack - $30

greasy spoon diners.

I found that the thread wears the fastest when belaying past the middle mark. it is time consuming, but probably the safest method for marking a rope since there are no chemicals involved. as chad points out, it must be reapplied occasionally.

it's pretty easy to get it correct too. http://www.climerware.com/clove.shtml

grab a needle and thread dental floss through the sheath very carefully. i've heard about people whipping it around the middle too, but that wears out even faster.

I pulled all the old 1/4"ers a while back, but there is more to be done. Glad you agree.

it looked sweet, albiet still quite snowy, from the air yesterday as I flew over. Prussik looked snowfree, but what can one really tell from 20,000'?

hence the quotation marks. If it's going to be bolted, I'm all for that type of climbing and route development; I'm just curious how hard these new routes are? hand drill or power? pins, hooks, or other bolting aids OR drill from a stance? How high the first bolts are off the deck? inquiring minds want to know mr ice send-bot.

I'd like to get the Palouse area climbers together for a "meeting of the minds" this month. In particular would be discussions about bolting more lead routes at Granite Point, anchors on the Snake River basalt & the Lewiston Columns, and drinking some beer along the river. PM me or post about when/where to make this happen. I'm open. Kurt

sounds like we need to go climbing again Dan! I would also recommend that you workout frequently, and obviously, in the coming months. Inspiration from others works wonders for most people I know. edit: guess i should have read to the end of the thread.

Funny this came up. Recently we have had some bolting activity around bozeman that involves conrad. He is working on this area that is all basalt (not columns) edges, where you are only allowed to bolt ground up. There are some other rules I guess like on the first bolt you boulder up until you quiver and that is the high spot for the first bolt. Now before you bolt it, another person can challenge the route and by bouldering up higher and establishing a new high point for the route. It has turned out some pretty good routes as well as adding character to an area. This is a ridiculous and stupid for establishing "sport" routes. Sounds like a fun, but scary, way to hurt yourself...and an ego stroke (of which most climbing is anyways). how hard are the established routes?

yea, do tell. I need some ASAP. I wore the Nuptses off and on for about a month once (to break them in for AK), and liked them, but had sized them too big on mail order. They have good forward flex, a good lacing system IIRC, and a sticky-ish sole. The heel was too wide, though, so I had to trim some of the lugs off to get my Sarkens on them. marcus has the only Spantiks I've ever seen, so ask him. Get what fits mr. NOLSe.

it starts in a somewhat obvious broken corner that has many variations. anywho, start at the base somewhere and climb whatever looks like fun ultimately trending towards the obvious chimney up high on the buttress.

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=437 add a biner if top roping

I climbed the glacier on the NE buttress of Jberg with a rock since I lost my tool somewhere on route. in a way, it's the lightest option since you pick it up when you need it and toss it when you're done.

that looks like a great trip. Summit Chief is looking good too

or just use the rope and not worry about the limitations of equipment that is being used for something other than it's intended purpose.

if they are the ones i saw 2 seasons ago, they are sweet. 2 clip in points, quick to start, repositioned knobs, etc. buy buy buy!

lots of pools of water on the east side, but pretty ok on the right (west) third of it or so.

The hitch is called a hitch because it must be tied around something to maintain it's shape and function (e.g. prusik, Garda, clove, munter, bachman, etc); whereas a knot remains intact even if the object it is tied around is removed. as you mention Matt, the clove hitch MUST be snugged down before being weighted. cloves do stay tight, however, if they remain constantly weighted.

Cascade Voices may be interesting. http://store.everestgear.com/mnw019.html

http://guidetricksforclimbers.com/cloveHitch.art.html "When the knot was tied incorrectly, with the load strand farthest away from the spine of the carabiner, it was found that the knot tried to align itself with the spine at 250 lbs., and carabiner failure occurred–before rope breakage–at approximately 38% below the carabiner's rated strength."

I already took about 4" off. pup on the mountain starting up the first couloir The Hilary step crux. Craig in the background, Bala climbing. The second couloir conga line It was a great time climbing with all of you guys. I hope your beds were more restful than our post-climb bivy in the rest area by Quincy!

probably some of both... cobras are $199 for example